Do I need these services?

All except the Fuel Injection Service....just make sure you fill up your tank with "Top Tier" gasoline and that'll keep them cleaned out for you.

I would ask about the cost of the spark plug replacement....sounds more like a $150-200 job than $301...I'd remind them it's a 4-cylinder and easy peasy!!

BTW, that's an excellent price for the transmission service....last I checked, my dealer charges $310 for it.

 

I won't comment on the timing, but just considering each item:

Brake Flush $179 <Toyota USA says nothing regarding brake fluid change (presumably what they're actually doing), but Toyota Canada recommends tri-yearly or 48k kms, whichever comes first
Fuel Injection Service $259 <Pure waste of money
Transmission Flush $264 <Toyota USA (and Canada) say nothing regarding transasxle fluid change (presumably what they're actually doing). That said, I would do at least one. Still, that price is ridiculous, even in Canadian dollars it's ridiculous. A trasnsaxle fluid change is no more complex than an oil change, and considering there's no oil filter, the difference in supplies is trivial. I wouldn't pay over $100 USD. Make sure they're using Toyota ATF WS, from freshly opended bottles.
Coolant Flush $235 <Presumably engine coolant change. That's about the usual full-retail price I guess. See the attached schedule to determine if it's warranted.
Inverter Coolant $199 <Per previous comment. Heady thought: how about $200 even

Attached is a summary of the Toyota USA maintenance schedule, extrapolated to 240k miles and 24 years.

 

IMHO:
Spark Plug Replacement $301; Due for replacement
Brake Flush $179; No official Toyota recommendations, but other OEM specify 3-5 years. It's pretty humid in Portland. There is a couple of test you can run.

Fuel Injection Service $259; Hard Pass - buy some over the counter injector cleaner and dump it in on your next fill-up.

Transmission Flush $264, No official Toyota recommendations, but after 14 years and 115K miles, you should probably change it.

Coolant Flush $235
Inverter Coolant $199; Both coolants should probably be changed, You've reached the 10 year time interval but not the mileage interval - chemicals and oils breaks-down and get contaminated over time. If you look at the footnotes of your manual, after the first coolant change; it reverts to 50K mile intervals.

I also have an issue with terminology - a change vs a system flush are very different procedures. One will require at least 2.5x more fluids to accomplish. I know some people don't see a difference, but billing for a flush when they are actually doing a change is, technically FRAUD. The OEM manual ONLY ask that the fluids be CHANGED; doesn't state "flush" in the documentation. Service writers will always try to sell you the expensive option; unless you correct them. That's been my experience.

Here's a web site to get a rough price comparison. I'd ask for a service discount; if they are going to do multiple services in one visit - They're not going away and coming back, so that's saving them time and money; which should reduce your cost. Toyota Prius Spark Plug Replacement Costs

 

One additional comment, some places like to do "flushes" instead of a drain and fill. Save your money, request drain and fill....transmission and coolant doesn't need flushing and, if done wrong, can actually create problems.

 

A lot times the dealerships say flush, when in fact it's a drain and fill. Virtually always.

@Godawgs the elephant in the room: it's your car. Study the schedule (table format I posted early in infinitely easier than trying to make sense of the event-by-event format in Toyota USA's Warranty and Maintenance Booklet), make a decision as to what you're hiring them to do, get a quote.

 

Drain and fill , versus flush:

If nothing has gone wrong and the system is functioning a drain and fill is THE way to go. There are power flush systems that force new fluid into the vehicle. Maybe a good idea if some part has exploded and you want to clean things out. But the flush systems can stir up debris and make things worse too....

Drain and fill is best if you are OK and just want to replenish the additives in the fluids. Not a bad goal. If you have old, but decent fluids, draining say 70% of the fluids and then replacing is just fine. Gets you new additives. MUST use genuine Toyo stuff.

 

Most of those don't even to be done yet---especially the ones that were already done only 54,000 miles ago.

 

Drain and fill versus flush discussion is a moot point? The debate as to which is preferred is predicated on the assumption the service writer knew the difference. They’re VERY likely are just using the word flush erroneously, and it IS drain and fill they’ll be doing.

 

The service writer's job is to be the liaison between the dealer technician and customer - take care of the paperwork, phone calls, get additional repair work authorizations, and explain things to the customer. Lets face it; some really good technicians don't have very good interpersonal skills or are good at paperwork. IMHO - service writers SHOULD know the difference between a change and flush; so they don't get the dealership sued for false statement or worse; putting things in writing that wasn't done.

Just my two cents...

 

@NutzAboutBolts, both of them IIRC, worked at Toyota dealerships, and I've heard them use the term flush in place of drain-and-fill. Language is what it is, misnomers crop up, become entrenched. Google where did sideburns come from, bit of a rabbit hole.

 

It might just be me; because English isn't my first language. IMHO; playing fast and loose with the written word - DOESN'T make reading and understanding technical manuals any easier. Maybe it's not really genZ's fault??? I am a visual learner, but I can usually spot errors and BS a mile away. Unfortunately, someone with less experience can't or won't.