Does it really matter whether synthetic blend/full synthetic or conventional oil on oil change?

I'm using Castrol Edge 5W-30, the high-mileage version, and have done for years (I do my own oil/filter changes). IMO it's worth paying whatever the price difference is, and that little 4-cylinder mill seems to thrive on it. Don't know how much longer I can keep on getting down under there to do the work (and getting up is the real fun!), but as we say in PA Dutchland, "May things never change!"

 

Just change your 5:30 oil and you be good don't sweat it at all even on a 20 plus year old car . The car appreciates you changing it.

 

I can’t even find non synthetic 5/30 oil anymore.

 

If your doing 5K mile oil changes, any certified 5w30 would be OK. If you doing 10K mile changes; I'd stick with full synthetic - since it's more stable and doesn't break-down as easy as the old dino-oil. I know some people that'll change their oil every 5K and the filter every 10K. To me, that's like taking a shower and putting your old dirty smelly clothes and underwear back on - what's the point??? An OEM filter on-line is less than $5.

Just my 2-cents....

 

That. Also, it just now occurred to me--when removing the old filter, put a plastic bag around it. No more messy hand(s) and drips.

 

I use a 'red solo cup' mostly because it can be used for that task more than once.

 

100% agree with this!! (But do 5,000 mile oil changes....too many YouTube videos of the gunked up inside of engines to prove 10,000 mile oil changes is a horrible idea...might seem okay for a few years, but ends in disaster.)

 

Man I got four engines out here laying in the yard there articulated on pallets in such a way where oil and nonsense isn't getting inside of them they all had hap hazard oil changes at best .. take the valve cover off any of them I don't see anything alarming for 180K if driving in SE USA. A few flakes of dried oil n whatever mixed compressed air blows it down to the silver brown color it starts to get the minute the engines pumping oil. Pull the head off you can still see this cross hatch marks from the original honing 180K ago . Pull main n rid caps see light copper just starting to show thru grey babbit material . This is all perfect for cleaning and re fitting std sizes thru out engine. At the point you're at you'll have it all assembled and most of it back together ready to go into the car by this afternoon . Only thing that won't come from Walmart for this whole operation is the lisle ring compressor . By the red plastic unit with the corrugated 1.3 inch metal band .

 

I do 10K mile changes because I'm 70%-80% EV and get more than 1K miles a tank. I also spend the extra dollar on the 20K mile full synthetic formulation, instead of the standard 10K mile full synthetic. Worse case is around 7.5K actual on ICE, that's usually done in the summer months, where I'm <800 miles/tank. I've hit the one year point on occasions; so it get changed because I've hit the time-line wall, not mileage.

This is on a PHEV; so if you have longer commutes or just a regular hybrid - YMMV........