Odd HV Charging w/ Regenerative Braking & P0335

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by PriuSocal, May 28, 2026 at 3:56 PM.

  1. PriuSocal

    PriuSocal Member

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    I installed the Dr. Prius app and decided to check it out and noticed a few odd things that I had not seen on my other scanners. I was driving the car on the fwy and noticed that when I pressed on the brake and regenerative braking activated, the cumulative pack voltage spiked from 220-230v range to over 260v and the section turned red (indicating a warning) and as soon as I let off the brake it would go back down to the 220v-230v range.

    I decided to use neutral when braking to evade the pack to overcharge and drove about 5 miles or so when the car suddenly gave me the YTOD and the check engine light came on, the car then stalled and would not respond to pressing the gas pedal. I pulled over, checked the codes with my other scanner and found P0A80 and P0335 codes. I reset the codes and the car began to operate normal, but a few hundred yards later, again the car stalled and lights came back on. I then noticed the SOC was very low like 20-26% and car appeared to be in limp mode. This was repeated 5-6 more times as I needed to get to a safe place and check the car safely.

    I finally got somewhere were I could check the car and the code that stood out since it was new was the p0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor “A”. I did a quick search online and most said to check the CKP (crankshaft position sensor) connector and wiring and it all was good, replace the CKP. I googled the location and a guy on youtube showed the sensor to be on top / right side of the valve cover. I checked it (unbeknown to me he was wrong and that was actually the CAMshaft pos sensor), BUT found that camshaft pos sensor connector plug to be loose and came right off an effortless tug. I reseated it and it clicked into place and when pulling at it it was on firmly. I came back cleared the code and drove the car and code code did NOT come back on and car drove well with zero issues.

    I am now curious as to how the ECU could have incorrectly interpreted the failing sensor to be the crankshaft when it may have been the loose camshaft sensor plug instead or if this is common to happen since they both interpret similar readings that go hand in hand. Also, the overcharging of the pack was a concern and wondering what was causing that since the other readings in the app appeared to be within acceptable range (as i understood the app to interpret). Could that be a battery ecu beginning to fail? I now have the p0335 as permanent along with the p0A80 which has been permanent for some time.
     
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I would say that you didn't witness any overcharging of the pack, but just the normal increase in measured voltage when a heavy charging current is flowing, coupled with Dr. Prius having fixed voltage thresholds for changing the bar colors without accounting for current.

    Dr. Prius can also show you the effective internal resistance measurements of the battery blocks. I don't know yours, but they can be around 22 mΩ or so. Times 14 blocks, that's about 0.3 Ω. If you're accepting 100 A of regen current, that's 30 volts right there. So a reading of 260 V at that moment still only means the battery voltage is a nice happy 230, but Dr. Prius has fixed bar-color ranges and so it shows red.

    So if you weren't looking at Dr. Prius, you wouldn't be worrying about it, you'd just be enjoying the car.
     
    #2 ChapmanF, May 28, 2026 at 5:37 PM
    Last edited: May 28, 2026 at 5:44 PM
    PriuSocal likes this.
  3. PriuSocal

    PriuSocal Member

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    Thanks for clarifying that about Dr. Prius as I'm new to that app and found it very useful as all the parameters one needs are all there without having to manually select them like on other scanners. One thing though, I tried it on my friends 2012 and his doesn't spike when regen braking is applied, at least not like mine. Initially i put that info through chatgpt and it came back saying the spike was abnormal and could indicate a failing BMS unit (battery ecu). I do have an extra one and was about to swap it to see if it would still do it until I read your comment.

    The resistance varies at times from what the app tells me. There are times when they read 19 Ω all across other times 22 Ω all across other times some 24Ω some 25 Ω etc. Which I read is totally normal.

    So based on what you're saying there shouldn't be a need to swap out the BCM unit right?