Hey all, I don't have a Prius, but I'm using a gen3 Prius inverter pump to circulate coolant in an air to water intercooler on my JDM Toyota Vitz (using JDM ST185 Celica GT4 air/water intercooler, custom lines and radiator). See picture of wiring diagram for pump below. Relevant points: 1. Right now the pump is pulsing, but from what I've read online it should be running constantly. Is this correct? 2. Currently I have GND (white-black) hooked up to chassis ground and +BWP (blue) to 12v via a relay I installed (when ignition switch is on it sends 12v to this wire). 3. NWP (pink) wire appears to be some kind of signal for the ECU (to know it's running) - this should be irrelevant for my purpose, as it's not in a Prius! 4. SWP (green) wire appears to be switched power? Do I need this wire also hooked to 12v for the pump to NOT pulse? 5. What am I missing? Perhaps the green wire is 12v and the blue is 5v? thank you!!
It is a variable speed pump. You need a 0-12v pulse waveform coming in on swp. Failsafe is 15% off 85% on. Speed will decrease as the on time is reduced.
Appreciate the response! Forgive my ignorance, but that means I can't just run 12v to SWP and have it run 100% of the time? Or would that burn the pump up? If not, is there a way to have it run 100% of the time easily? thank you!
See this post, which is about the engine water pump, but the control scheme is the same. In the tachometer signal coming back from the pump, shorter wavelength (higher frequency) corresponds to higher pump speed. In the how-fast-to-run signal sent to the pump, it's not the wavelength/frequency carrying the info. The duty cycle (how much of the wave period is spent high instead of low) is what indicates the speed wanted. The frequency / wavelength doesn't necessarily change at all. I measured steady 25 Hz on the output to the engine pump, or four 10 ms divisions on my scope. The picture in the manual for that also says "20 ms/div" like rj's picture, and still shows four divs as the wave period—which would be a frequency of 12½ Hz—but that wasn't what I saw for the engine pump and I suspect it's just a typo. I doubt the pump cares much about the frequency, within reason, as long as the duty cycle makes sense.
Wild so you're running a Celica all trac setup 3SGte the BEAMS? Seems to me any 12 volt water pump with 5/8 barbs would work well for you I found using an Italian 12-volt water pump It's a mag drive type unit used on a lot of Italian big bore scooters a 16-in wheel things a grown-ups drive in Europe A lot of those are water cooled I'm using one of those pumps and one of my Prius right now as the inverter pump just because I had it laying around and it was easy to wire up and has been running ever since and they're like $40 and they don't have any pulsing and waveform problems or any of that stuff or you could just try a generation 2 inverter cooling pump I think it just runs the one speed or whatever which may not be enough volume for you I don't know but the one from the scooter moves a bit more water than the generation too stock inverter pump. And is inexpensive and there's a bunch of them on the net.
haha I wish Beams! No this is a silly fun turbo project boosting 1.0 1szfe. I actually have a clone Bosch pump but I thought the Prius pump would be completely silent from the cabin. Seems I’ll have to switch back to that pump. I got this Prius pump for cheap and figure I’d give it a go, but should have read more about this pulsing business! I’ll wait before swapping back, to hear if there’s a simple way to get the Prius pump to run 100% of the time by giving voltage/grounding the pink wire. Eh?
I guess I'll swap back the other pump then? Unless anyone knows an easy way to get this pump to run 100% of the time.
According to Chapman the SWP input is already at 12v (via an internal pull-up resistor) even if it is not connected. You could check that with a meter. SWP should be pin 3. You could try 12v on the swp input pin 3. I would do nothing with pin 2. Otherwise you need a pwm generator capable of adjusting frequency and pulse duty cycle. If you want to experiment this $13 Amazon pwm controller might work.
The pwm controller seems pretty solid and has the ability to lock in the freq and duty cycle through a power fail.
So you're running a Italian big bore scooter pump instead of a something gen 3 Prius Inverter Pump? I have a not ending 52010 and contemplating using the older model being I just found a blank surface bottom inverter pump and some bolts missing along the way. I was wondering what the situation is regarding the different gen 3 related pumps, since the P314A code on the 2014 plug in PHV had me grabbing my 2013 spare that come to find out is the old G9040-47090 and technically, appears the Aisin WQT001 - G9040-52010 is for the PHV-Pip. Wondering what the differences are and how'd they interchange if already have one or the other? I am finding these parts numbers with potentially the G9040-52010 superceded and interchanging with the older G9040-47090 - G904047090 and G9040-48020 reported for: 2011-2013 Lexus CT200h 2010-2013 Lexus RX350 2010-2013 Lexus RX450h 2011-2013 Toyota Highlander 3.5L Full Hybrid & Limited 2011-2012 Toyota Prius (2010-2012 per This Source) 2012 Toyota Prius V Oddly G9040-48020 seems reported here only for: 2010-2012 Toyota Prius 2010-2012 Toyota Highlander Per Lexus here only for: 2011-2012 Lexus CT200h 2010-2012 Lexus RX350 2010-2012 Lexus RX450h The Rock Auto interchange shows the AISIN WQT001 (labelled as the Toyota Part # G9040-52010 without a G as Toyota has): LEXUS CT200H 2011-2017 LEXUS RX450H 2010-2015 (some other places report 2012-2018) SCION IQ 2013 TOYOTA HIGHLANDER 2011-2016 TOYOTA PRIUS 2010-2015 TOYOTA PRIUS C 2012-2017 TOYOTA PRIUS PLUG-IN 2013-2015 TOYOTA PRIUS V 2012-2017 Toyota Part Deal shows similar interchange for G9040-52010, albeit not as many as is typical I find: 2013 Scion iQ Electric EM 2012-2017 Toyota Highlander Limited, STD|4 Cyl 2.7L, 6 Cyl 3.5L 2011-2015 Toyota Prius 2012-2018 Toyota Prius C 2012-2017 Toyota Prius V I also found a G9040-52021 interchange with no reference, since guessing is a typo, though I did find when Google searching for that I was lead to a G9040-52020 for the: 2018-2019 Toyota Prius C 2017-2019 Toyota Highlander 2022 Lexus RX350L 2016-2022 Lexus RX450h & RX450HL
How did you wire in? What did you do with the four wires at the connection to the stock pump? Any codes from the IWP and NIWP Power Communications Control ECU, like the P314A or other? I was wondering if the Inverter Temp sensed stayed low enough, there wouldn't be any issues potentially. Interesting as I did have a thought about using a gen 2 Prius pump since should easily fit and wire up. Have available too and can get more cheap. Was thinking, if worried about flow rate, can hardwire a controller on the dash as I typically always monitor using Hybrid Assistant. Then I came to and realized she is no way ever going to monitor anything. So needs to be stock or really stupid easy and safe to use until I order new if decide is required.
That's because apparently you're trying to rig up a gen 3. Gen3 generally do Not have all the inverter pump issues the 2 has . So the 3 has more connections to9 motor temp etc . The 2 does not have more connections . No need . I'm sure you can do similar in a three you just want a low flow 12 volt silly water pump with approximately 5/8 barbs to run when the car is ready simple no problem and it's not running when the car is unready simple again. The temp should stay at the lower running end of temp scale anytime pumps running . Inverter temps are never an issue until the pump has stopped running. Anytime the pump is running I don't care how fast you're going how hot it is outside or what in the world is going on . The inverter fluid temp is always about 90 to maybe 110 or such . Not really enough to burn a person's hands that works on vehicles Fairly regular .
Yes sir. Local Grand Rapids PYP had a newer looking latest Aisin, so got two so have spare since guessing both were replacements on the Priuses pulled from. Was wondering if what your spoofing method was if a gen 3. If I can find the time, would be neat to measure flow rates and like you note determine the optimal flow if not temp feedback adjusted. Prob not worth my time for now. Too busy, though do have the parts and PWM controller and oscilloscope to try. Would be interesting spoofing with a MCU or circuit designed to do, though that type circuits time I plan to devote to a LiBSU to use NiMH pack in the plug-in and learn more to eventually be able to make a replacement 56S sensor battery voltage "glass unit" computer.
