AC was a little weak this summer, and i decided to do a recharge kit. The kit didn't work out. Originally, I thought there was a blow out on condenser while trying to bring system up to pressure. AI swore this is the sole case and issue. I took to shop for inspection. Oil had blown out the escape valve of the compressor with no evidence of a leak on condenser. Shop originally wanted $2100 AC compressor kit installed. They want to replace compressor and condenser flush lines and charge it back up. The best price was a rebuilt compressor and new condenser installed 1500. I know you guys know how clunky AI is for auto repairs but its all I got so better than nothing. AI is doubling down on condenser and says to replace it only and thinks my compressor is still good, Suggest replace expansion valve. I don't really think the shop is doing anything wrong but its all about doing work that they can put their one year warranty on. I can't diy on this one i don't have the space or facilities nor the vacuumed equipment. So the repair has to be a one shot deal to keep cost reasonable. I read through the other comments and i see your mostly recommending used compressors at that which i found interesting. So how would you go about this repair? As always thanks for your time in advance.
No man I don't think so .2100 bux no way . Gauges and vac pump are cheap today 140 bux . Borrowing from a list member etc Something.!. Vac and gas up system on the cheap . Sight glass clearing up at compressor start up etc fat silver hose getting cold? What are numbers on the blue and red gauges. With the system on l o cool hI Fan and after 5 minutes of blowing cold air out . You note numbers on blue gauge maybe 37.. red gauge 95 degrees out it mite show 247or such ? You tell us . Weak what does this mean exactly? Why would a shop want to replace your condenser and all that stuff they think I got exploded ??? Evedince of is??? Usually if you take apart that fat hose and blow some air what comes out of the break. In the line ,? Metal shards??
It seems you want more details of how the charge up went. I had trouble getting the psi to stabilize. It was 100F at the time and if I put the gage on and started the car i was getting a 37psi stabilized. When I added coolant, the gage would run up to 60-70 psi suddenly blow out return to 35psi and repeat. There is very little coolant that even came out the can at this point. The shop doesn't think diy caused the issue. Looking down at the splash guard below the compressor there is excessive oil from the blow out. I don't know about the glass sight didn't use it can't say if the hose got cold. Last I checked it was blowing cold but I haven't turned back on since oil blow out. As far as what evidence the shop provided. They took me underneath the car showed me the escape valve compressor is where oil came from and not the condenser. There was no obvious leak on the condenser. As far as if there was metal in the oil this was not provided. There is still some oil on the splash guard but if i were to collect it would be dirty. The shop says diy didn't cause issue that the system is clogged. That they need to replace both compressor condenser flush the system to be able to warranty the repair for a year. I was like okay this seems expensive maybe I can shop the parts and go from there.
They need to because they said so . Nah I'm good no need warranty. 37 on lo is good need know hi side too. . I'm no understanding why replace compressor. Anyhow 2100 noop. But California.
Yes when you add freon to the system you have to kind of do it carefully you just blast it in there you will see the low side go up to 65 70 psi not so good.
Good lord! There is no way Ai knows what is going on with your ac - and you have not provided enough information or used good technique to even provide information. The first step is to find the leak and fix it. Most common on a gen2 is the evaporator and more rarely the condenser. Any shop capable of changing ac parts knows how to find the leak using off state pressure, high nitrogen pressure, uv dye or electronic leak detectors. Usually followed by ac bubble solution applied externally. Which method did your shop use? There is a pressure relief valve, eg a high pressure relief valve. Too much refrigerant or a clogged device downstream of the compressor are the usual suspects. Coolant is in the radiator, refrigerant is in the ac system. A sight glass is next to the H high pressure access port. You need to know how to watch it. You add refrigerant in the more difficult to access L port next to the inverter. It IS possible to overpressure the system by putting in too much refrigerant. With 37 psi to start it was maybe a little low. One small can is all that an empty vacuumed system needs. More might active the high pressure relief valve. That valve can be replaced. But you then need added hybrid ac oil before vacuum and recharge procedures, assuming a leak was repaired as needed. You can watch the high pressure with gauges (not the one hose kind) or with a scanner since a Prius monitors and reports pressure. If you don't trust your shop get another hybrid ac specialist to diagnose.
One possibility is to bring my own parts and I think they are at 800 labor charge and fill. But it seems like your saying if I am just not comfortable even diagnosing the repair then I should just go with shop?