Has anyone used the Autel MaxiAP2000 to bleed brakes post actuator-swap?

I haven't used it post actuator-swap, but I've used the same bleeding function in the Autel that you'd use for that, and it worked.

Techstream actually has two bleeding routines: a shorter one for routine things like changing a caliper, and a longer one in case you worked on the underhood bits (bit of overkill for the routine jobs). The shorter one is the one my AP200 doesn't have; it seems to just have the longer one.

 

If I were to swap my actuator, I would follow that by using the existing long-form bleed procedure in my Autel AP200 that I have already successfully used.

 

How long does the longer one take?

 

Mostly down to how quickly you can shuttle yourself around to the various bleed screws.

On my gen 3, it'll send you around in some order (I forget the order, which is fine, because it prompts you) to each rear caliper, to each of the front calipers, to each of the front calipers again (there are two different hydraulic circuits serving the front calipers, both need the air out), and to the bleed screw on the stroke simulator. Then it'll empty and re-pump the accumulator half a dozen times, and finish up by learning the linear solenoid offset.

Recognizing this is a gen 2 thread, I have to admit I haven't had occasion to use the AP200 for this procedure on a gen 2, so I can't say what details might be different there.

 

You don't have to have the wheels off to bleed the brakes it makes it easier to access the parts wheels off . You can be be on ramps up front and nothing in rear. I've used the ap200 a lot to bleed the brakes because it keeps me from getting a complete laptop and cabling off the shelf and making sure that it's charged. the Ap bleed menus mimics tech streams .

 

I can reach all four bleed screws on my gen 3 with no special effort, all four wheels on the ground. Maybe if my arms were very short it would be different. For the front, turning the steering to one side and the other makes it easy.

Gen 3 has a fifth bleed screw on the stroke simulator, which (on a US car) can't be reached without removing the windshield wipers and cowl. I do that work before starting the bleed process, so I don't have to take time for it during the process while draining the battery.

If I remember right, gen 2's stroke simulator is in a different place. Having not worked through this procedure on a gen 2, I'm not sure if there are more bleed screws under the hood to be found.

 

I bet alot of people in our country are experiencing a stroke simulator right now.

 

There'll always be some good ol' boy on youtube or PriusChat to tell you nothing matters and just treat it like a normal car.

This actuator has eleven electrically-operated valves inside, controlling some redundant hydraulic pathways, and you get air in a lot of places when you have it out and install it, and you're not getting that air out of all those places without getting the ECU to open the right valves at the right times while you bleed.

 

I’d (safely),get all wheels off, makes access a lot easier. That’s what I’ve done, for a simple brake fluid replacement, wouldn’t consider alternatives. Using jack stands, and I’ve got a slab that’s no quite planar, need to shim 1/4” under the jack stands at one rear corner.

 

I've bled My generation twos just like this a million times works just fine everybody says the lights won't go off in the internal valves won't bleed or fluid won't get behind etc . So far on my 09 done years ago it's still just fine and bled like a Corolla no linear valve offset requested . So uhh.

 

When I mentioned there's always somebody on YouTube or PriusChat who will tell you it doesn't matter that those valves are closed when you bleed, well, here on PriusChat, Tombukt2 is the person that always is.

If your priorities are to keep it simple and avoid messing anything up, my suggestion would be to do the bleeding the way it's designed to be done.

Getting flashing codes on the dash isn't a catastrophe. Codes are there to tell you what's going on with the car. If you have the tool to start the bleed procedure, you also have the tool to understand whatever the car may tell you is going on along the way.

 

TV;DW that's a short video that shows somebody loosening a steel line connection at the actuator while the pump runs, letting a frothy bunch of fluid spurt out.

There are still fewer lines to loosen than there are places inside the actuator to get air out of. I would still bleed the intended way.