Well, my new cam assembly bolts came in. I'm pretty sure every single one but maybe 3 stretched. I made sure I was reading my torque wrench right this time and didn't have any problems with the timing cover bolts. It's the 17 "gold bolts" for the cam assembly. 90105-08455 is what I bought as a replacement. Turns out it's 16 of those and 1 is a short bolt. It's 20ft lbs, right? I don't understand what I'm doing wrong. I worked them snug, because there is the valve springs pushing the assembly up. Then I did the bolt pattern to 10#, I noticed it was a bit off. I assumed it was the RTV squshing. Then I worked in 20#, same thing. It would click and I'd go to click it again and it would turn 1/8-1/4 turn more before clicking. I couldn't get a solid stiff click from the majority of the bolts. One started to keep going without clicking, so I took it out. Picture, left to right. Old good bolt, old stretched bolt, new stretched bolt. The other picture shows the stretched to the brand new. From under the bolt head, they measured, 2.750", 2.853", 2.806". I don't understand what I'm doing wrong. 2010 Gen3, 223k miles.
My guess is your torque wrench is not calibrated anymore. Do you reset it to zero before storing it? Not sure I would worry about on the cam assembly. However the head bolts are another story.
I always zero it out. I had no problem doing the timing cover bolts/water pump afterwards. Nice firm, repeatable clicks at the torque. 19#, 38#. I also redid the exhaust manifold nuts. 15# iirc.
Are you certain you have FT lbs? And the correct torque? Perhaps it's INCH lbs and not FT lbs? I honestly don't remember which it is. I know they are not very tight. Also, make sure you are NOT reading "NM". Because 1.1 NM, is 10ftbs. So 20NM, would be about 220 ftlb's. I don't believe the cam bolts are stretch bolts. The head bolts are. Tighten them down by hand, or hand held socket. Follow the sequence pattern. You can push down on the section of the cam that the spring is holding up. After they are hand tight, the cam caps should be flat against the head. I would say maybe 1/2 turn is all the bolt would move with the correct torque.
The spec is Torque: 27 N·m (275 kgf·cm, 20ft·lbf) 1 NM is 0.7376 ftlbs 20 NM IS 14.75 ftlbs which is reduced torque. Use of oil on the threads can cause stretching even though the torque wrench indicates 20 ftlbs. Most Toyota torque specs are for clean and dry threads except for the head bolts where a specific lubricant is recommended.
I’ll have to look at my old ones and pull a couple of the new ones out. See if they’re dirty. The new one in the pic has what I think is RTV around the middle of the thread. Is that’s causing the stretch? What can I do about this? How do I prevent RTV from getting in, in the first place? But still had zero issue with the timing cover. Half the bolts were slathered in old RTV.
What about the head bolts you tightened too much? Those being stretched is more concerning than the cam bolts. Also please don't start a new thread for the same job. Stick with the old thread so people helping you have all of the information in one location.
The biggest torque problem is when the fastener is specified for in lbs and someone torques that number with a ft lbs torque wrench. That mistake would end up 12 times over torqued. Which is not a concern when the cam housing bolts are spec'd at 20 ft lbs. RTV is not oil. Torque values are specified as dry or lubricated. When dry is specified, an oil like SAE 30 can make a bolt get tighter with less torque. If you lubricated with 30 weight oil you would have to reduce the torque by 35-45% to end up with proper tension or clamping force. Head and main bearing bolts are a few exceptions but even then a specified assembly lube is needed. Usually it does not matter one way or the other unless you end up breaking a bolt. Your head bolts are ok. If you read the attachment in post 5 it suggests replacing the sealant after loosening cam housing bolts.
Here is my torque wrench and what I set it to, when I torqued them. 20ft lbs. I bought another set of head bolts and put them in... I really don't want to take everything back apart, again. I don't understand how I got 30lbs out of the original set and can't even get 20lbs out of the new set. (Cam bolts) 10lbs wasn't even getting a repeatable click. (wasn't exactly trying) Maybe some motor oil got in the threads and I should try 10-15lbs on the next set? I was talking to my boss who has done some engine work before and he said the engine he was working on was 8ft lbs. I thought about getting one of those digital adapter torque wrenches. To see if my wrench is that off. But think it would be a waste of money. Cheap and cheap... It retorqued my exhaust studs to 15ft lbs fine. I still haven't inspected my original or replacement bolts.
My bad. Since it was only my cam bolts and I used to correct torque value, I thought it maybe needed it's own specific topic.
Check to make sure there is not fluid in the holes the bolts go into. If oil got in there, you can't compress it. You can wrap a rag around the hole and use the red tube on the nozzle and put it at the bottom of the hole and spray, carb or brake cleaner. The rag will keep it from getting all over the place. If you have a compressor, you can spray air in it. Then use the brake/carb clean and air. Make sure it's dry. Where did you get 20ftlb from? Are you certain that is correct?
Ok. Not sure why. No. Now you would be guessing. Clean and dry at 20 ft lbs. Clean like dogman suggests. The repair manual says 20 ft lbs as listed in the attachment in post 5.
That's happened more than once with these: They're trivial locator bolts, purely insurance against something rattling loose. Snugging them is all that's needed. Unfortunately Toyota spec'd the torque, which is something like 48 in/lbs, and few innocent souls dutifully got out their ft/lb torque wrench, took the heads right off.
Regardless of what specifications say, applying that much torque to such small bolts would require gross lack of common sense, or at least lack of experience with physical hardware.
In OP's original post for the same headgasket job they had problems reading the torque wrench and tightened the head bolts too tight and we pointed out the measurement test you do to confirm that head bolts are still good and then they never told us if they did the test or even followed up in the original thread and instead started a brand new thread about the cam bolts that they screwed up on too... I'd like to know if they tested the headbolts, but when you try to help people and they ignore you and make everything way more complicated, it's easy not to care amymore about helping 'em.