Gen5 PHEV AC intermittently blowing warm during battery cooling

Discussion in 'Gen 5 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by p3p5p, Jul 19, 2026.

  1. KMO

    KMO Senior Member

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    Interesting. Next test I'd suggest is max low AC with a cold battery. Can it sustain high power at all? Could be the battery is not really relevant apart from being a long term 'high power' request.
     
  2. LRO

    LRO Member

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    Thank you for finding that magic 104F temp where your Battery ECU made a request for A/C cooling. That's good to know. Closest I've got thus far at 88F ambient is a battery at 96F but some 90+ days coming up this week and if I'm ever in a position to get close to that magic 104F I'll share that.

    So at my cabin 72F cooling my data shows A/C kW consumption never drops to zero. Sure it starts out say at 1 to 2 kW but in a very short time that consumption goes away and settles to a very reasonable .55kW and holds in that vicinity always adjusting. So that's why earlier I couldn't match your description that the cabin air blows cold and then not so cold. I thought it was me not sensing temps like you but in reality it's because the variable-speed compressor is always on and not ever cycling on and off.

    I don't think you'd be delusional in Toyota's eyes to have them look at your vehicle. For one, I don't think when the battery is already at 104F that the A/C should cycle off at all. And although in your test it shows that it was maintaining the battery temp at 104F from 1600-2200 seconds it completely lost control of that once you turned on the A/C in the cabin for yourself (and it still cycled down to zero for no good reason). It'd be quite hard to explain that one away to me especially when your battery temp keeps climbing to 112 F. That's not right.

    Of course, we all put a lot of faith in our OBD adapters and software and hopefully when your unit is reporting 0kW A/C consumption that that's really the case and isn't say anything to do with tracking too many PIDs and not being able to keep up with all that's happening and dropping any data. I can capture ~23 PIDs per second which is less than advertised by OBD adapter marketeers but I am quite aware that with everything important and life-saving communicating on the CAN bus it's absolutely in Toyota's right to not honor every request for PID data that comes along if things are otherwise busy on the network. That said, you earlier kind of prove to me your data has been correct when you don't always feel cool air in the cabin. Toyota engineered this 5th gen HVAC system with a ton of sensors and a neural engine to ensure everything is handled without any discomfort by anyone or anything.
     
  3. p3p5p

    p3p5p New Member

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    Now I'm going to worry that my battery is heating too fast, and that's my real problem! :)

    In this case I'm fairly confident it's recording right, the way this app / adapter works is each PID is individually timestamped, so instead of dropping data, it just appears more than a second apart sometimes. I'm fairly confident in the A/C power PID because it matches what I hear from the compressor when I'm stopped (can't hear it while driving, though.)

    I'll give that a shot -- weather's been frustratingly mild for this purpose the last couple days.
     
  4. LRO

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    You're protected given the fact that EV driving mode will get automatically canceled if the temperature of the battery is too hot. But, do yourself a favor and add to your chart data the kW your HV battery is consuming or regenerating. High current, like when accelerating or hill climbing is what directly impacts the battery temperature rising than speed alone.I think some square-root formula along the lines of double your current raises battery temps 4 times, triple your current and the heat goes up 9 fold. You've got some interesting things tracking there and I appreciate hearing from you on this.

    Anyone from Death Valley, California where the starting temp for the battery would have been 116 F during the high there today?
     
  5. p3p5p

    p3p5p New Member

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    Yeah, my worry is more "Is my battery generating more heat than a battery in ideal condition should be," rather than "Will I overheat my battery".

    I did record power, but especially since the highway I tested on had hills (thus increasing the heat, as you mentioned!), and also due to interacting with traffic, it's very spiky when graphed! I swear I'm not some madman constantly changing speeds, it's just the nature of the beast. Attaching that graph (from when I got on the highway, to when I went into HV mode.) One thing about this highway -- it has fairly steep grades for a highway, so there are some sections with significantly more power than I would be using on flat ground. But I have experienced this even on fairly flat highways, so long as I'm traveling above 60 mph for a while.

    Figure 20.png

    You're right that heat production should be proportional to the square of the current, modeling it as an internal resistance.

    Rough back-of-the-envelope numbers -- I recall the car estimated around 3.3 mi/kWh on my last highway drive, which gives an expected average of about 21 kW if I'm going 70. Messing with my numbers, the average power from the data points where I'm going above 55 mph and in EV mode was 18 kW. (That cut out portions where I was accelerating to highway speed, but I needed to trim the data to remove the bits where I was on interchanges to reverse direction, etc). So, not too far off. RMS power, which should be proportional to the heating effect, was 25 kW!

    By the way, the PID I'm recording is called, in my app, "EV battery maximum temperature," which I'm assuming means the max of the many individual temperature sensors.

    Hopefully I'll be able to do a test of the AC output without warming the battery, to see if it stays relatively constant (likely this means running the AC on full on a hot day.)