check engine light + soft whirring noise

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Danica, Jul 30, 2026 at 6:22 PM.

  1. Danica

    Danica Junior Member

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    Hi everybody,

    2007 Prius, just under 130,000 miles on it, still on the original hybrid battery, had the 12 volt battery and inverter pump both replaced last year. I live in the Coachella Valley where it is HOT right now.

    Last Wednesday, July 22, my check engine light came on just as I was returning from dropping off my broken cell phone at the phone repair shop. The phone was not fully fixed until Monday so I couldn't call my usual mechanic, but I did stop by Auto Zone to get the codes read. It showed the codes were P1121 and P1122. Indicating an issue with the coolant flow control valve.

    I drove the car on Friday and it was driving fine but that's when I noticed the soft whirring noise recurring constantly as I drove. The whirring noise lasts about 4 seconds and recurs about every 5 seconds. I did some internet searches and it seemed like the noise could be connected to the faulty coolant flow control valve.

    On Tuesday morning I finally dropped off my car at the mechanic shop. They called me later to confirm the problem was the coolant flow control valve, and he quoted me a total price of $930 to take care of it (including a $150 diagnostic fee). I agreed, and picked up the car this morning. But I have two problems:

    1. The invoice they gave me is inconsistent. Under Labor, it clearly says "coolant flow control valve, remove & replace" but under Parts it lists "engine auxiliary water pump" which -- according to several internet searches -- is definitely NOT the same thing.

    2. On the drive home, the car is still making the exact same noise as before!

    I did call the repair shop again (worth noting they are extremely busy these days) but I did not talk to the same guy I had been dealing with before, and he seemed confused. He tried to tell me that the coolant flow control valve and the auxiliary water pump are basically the same thing because they are part of the same system, but I'm not so sure.

    Can anybody out there help me understand what the heck is going on with my Prius?
     
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    That is what those codes were about.

    Ehhhh, maaaybe, but that valve usually sounds more like a washing machine agitating, or an old floppy disk drive seeking back and forth, if you're old enough to have heard that.

    Whirring for a few seconds and recurring every so many seconds would be a description much more often seen for the hydraulic pump in the brake actuator, which would be completely unrelated to the cooling-system parts. It's not at all unheard-of for a car to develop a couple different problems that really aren't related to each other.

    That also makes me lean toward thinking brake actuator. But you could make a recording and post a link.

    You're right to be skeptical. The gen 2 Prius engine cooling system is extra funky for the number of pumps it has: the belt-driven one, an electrical one at the coolant thermos, and yet another electrical one near the cabin heater core to keep the hot coolant flowing there when the engine is stopped. And there's also the flow control valve, which is not any of those other things.

    Also, the car has yet another electric pump that is mounted near the coolant control valve but has nothing to do with the engine cooling system at all. That pump is for cooling the inverter.

    So there are all kinds of things the shop might have replaced. Did the invoice show a part number?
     
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  3. Danica

    Danica Junior Member

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    Yes. The reference number for the part is 1629021011. Which, from my internet research, does seem to match the engine auxiliary water pump.

    I had considered it might have something to do with the ABS. Obviously I'm hoping not. For whatever it's worth, during the Auto Zone check, the ABS got a pass, as did everything except the emissions.

    Also, I don't know if this is related or means anything, but the whirring noise cycle continues for a minute or so after I turn the car off, accompanied by some soft knocking sounds. It's hot, so I'm blasting the AC every time I drive the car. Could that have anything to do with any of these noises?

    Thanks for your response. I'm starting to wonder if I should drive out to the mechanic shop tomorrow morning, just to clear up the discrepancy with the invoice. I'd like to know which part actually got installed!
     
  4. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    You've maybe been researching on the wrong parts of the internet. "Engine auxiliary water pump" isn't really a term I'd use for any of them; to be most clear, I'd just say which one I meant: the one for the thermos, or the one for the cabin heat, or the belt-driven one on the engine.

    But the part number 16290-21011 isn't even any of those. It's the fourth pump I mentioned in the earlier post, the one that hasn't got anything to do with the engine at all. It belongs to the (completely separate) inverter cooling loop.

    Meanwhile, the coolant control valve is part of the engine cooling system, and hasn't got anything to do with that inverter pump. They just happen to be mounted kind of near each other, is the only connection.

    "ABS" is only one of the tricks the Prius brake system knows how to do. The one brake actuator box under the hood in a Gen 2 is responsible for that, and the day-to-day Electronically Controlled Braking, and the Vehicle Stability Control (the parts of it that involve the brakes). There isn't any way to separate out a part of the system that would be "the ABS".

    That sounds more and more to me like the pump in the brake actuator.
     
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  5. Danica

    Danica Junior Member

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    I appreciate the reply but I'm getting more confused. Getting back to the core problem with the invoice -- the codes on the car (P1121 and P1122) showed a problem with the coolant flow control valve, yes? And the mechanic confirmed over the phone that the problem was the coolant flow control valve. And in the Labor section of the invoice, it says "coolant flow repair valve remove & replace"... but then the replacement part on the invoice says "engine auxiliary water pump" with the reference number I gave.

    Before I drive down to the repair shop again to ask about this, I'm trying to get an idea of what happened. Does the invoice contain a mistake? Did they replace the wrong part?

    As for the noise... as you know, the Generation 2 Prius is a noisy car. It makes all kinds of mechanical noises. But I first noticed the semi-constant whirring noise on Friday -- the first time I drove the car after the check engine light came on. I'm used to the noises my car makes and this just seemed different. Now maybe the noise had been going on for awhile and I just didn't notice it until the check engine light came on. My gut feeling is that I think I would have noticed it before if it had been going on for awhile. But at this point, it's hard to be sure of anything.
     
  6. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    If the part they replaced has the part number you gave, then yes, they replaced the wrong part, and called it a name that isn't even right for the thing it really is, and then tried to feed you a line about how it's really the same thing as the part they should have replaced.

    The brake pump's soft whirring, for a few seconds at a time as needed, is a normal sound for the car. "As needed" is normally when you open the driver's door in the morning, and every few times you've used the brakes, and an occasional rare whirr in between.

    As the brake actuator wears out, "as needed" becomes more and more frequent. It might become every few minutes even if you haven't used the brakes, or later every 30 seconds, or 20 seconds, or 10. It will eventually set brake warning lights and codes, but only quite late; that's something you can see coming from a long way off.
     
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  7. Danica

    Danica Junior Member

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    Thank you very much for the response. Apparently I'll have to visit the repair shop in person to get their attention about this error.

    If the whirring noise is the brake actuator, what are my options for repairing the thing? Are there any other warning signs I can look for?

    I've been using this repair shop for over 20 years, and I do think they are honest, or at least they used to be. But as this place has gotten more and more successful and busy, their communication skills have fallen way off and their prices are getting very high. The owner has made it clear to me he doesn't like working with hybrid cars and he won't touch anything related to the hybrid battery.

    And maybe it's a petty thing, but they used to give me free rides to and from my house, with their own driver, but a few years ago they switched to using Lyft, and now the owner wants to start charging me for the Lyft rides.
     
  8. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    Is the check engine light still off? Under normal circumstances that would indicate that they had fixed the problem. Unfortunately the 3 way control valve sometimes sets that P1121 code and sometimes doesn't. So when the shop cleared it it went out, but not being back on may just mean that the car has not set it again yet, rather than it is fixed.

    On the plus side, the car can still be used with that 3 way valve not working. It just won't direct hot coolant into the thermos bottle when it should. Which will make almost no difference when the outside temperature is 115 F, which is supposed to be today's high where you are.
     
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  9. Danica

    Danica Junior Member

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    Yes, the check engine light is still off. The car is still making the exact same whirring noise every 5 seconds, no lights have come on, and for whatever it's worth, the car seems even noisier when I turn it off now.

    I went to the repair shop in person this morning, to try and get the invoice straightened out. At first they kept insisting, "It's the same thing" but I kept pushing, pointing out that one part is a valve and one is a pump, they have different reference numbers, etc. Finally the owner admitted he had made a mistake and listed the wrong replacement part on the invoice. He seemed genuinely surprised when he realized this. But he told me it would make no difference on the price. He issued me a corrected invoice with the same prices. By then I was too tired to argue any more.

    I asked him for a rough estimate to fix the brake actuator situation. He quoted me a rough estimate of $3,600.

    I've been using this car repair shop for over 20 years, and they were always reliable and pretty fair in the past. But that estimate sounds high to me, and after this business with the coolant flow repair valve, I am disinclined to go back there any time soon. So I'm not sure what to do other than start calling all the repair shops in my area.
     
  10. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    This sounds more and more hinky. Either they swapped the inverter pump and are covering their nether regions or they swapped the 3 way valve and really did just write the wrong part number down. Which is bad in other ways, for instance, the parts are probably not the same price and the work takes different amounts of time. At least when I did them the inverter pump was much easier than the valve. Entirely because the latter is buried deeper than the former.

    Perhaps watch this video



    to familiarize yourself with the parts, then take a bright flashlight and look down in front of the inverter to see which of those two parts is covered in desert dust and which is new and shiny. But do this soon, because I imagine the dust is even worse where you are than it is here, and here it would only be a week or so before everything was dirty again. Note that the hoses which were moved will not have been replaced but the ends that connect to the plastic part will have been cleaned somewhat during the installation just from being handled.

    The ultimate proof in the pudding will be if the CEL reappears, or not. If it goes a couple of months without coming back then they probably did fix the valve.
     
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  11. Danica

    Danica Junior Member

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    I tried looking this morning, and it seems there is a big black cover over that whole assembly. I wasn't up for trying to remove the cover.

    I went down to the repair shop in person today to sort this out. At first they kept insisting that the coolant flow control valve and the auxiliary water pump are the same thing. I kept pushing and finally they admitted they are not the same and they told me they had simply mislabeled the invoice, and it was the valve they had replaced. He issued a corrected invoice with the correct part labeled, but he did NOT give any kind of refund on the price. He insisted the two parts cost the same, even though my research tells me the valve should be at least $100 less.

    The big problem now is that the car is still making that whirring noise, and I am now convinced it's the brake actuator. While I was at the repair shop, I asked them for a rough estimate to fix the brake actuator situation, and he said about $3,600. Which sounds extremely high to me. So I'll have to spend the next week calling around and trying to get a better estimate, and considering if I should just buy a new (used) car.

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
     
  12. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    the whirring noise is not a big problem until you get trouble lights, and that could be a long time.
    call hybrid pit and ask for diagnosis and repair quotes.
     
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  13. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    7314 Melrose St, Buena Park, CA 90621
    (855) 492-4440

    That's a long drive from Coachella, 130ish miles and more than two hours (if no traffic). Doable though as long as the brakes have not completely failed. Maybe roll it in with a Disneyland or Knott's Berry farm trip, as they are also in Buena Park, about 6 miles away.
     
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  14. Danica

    Danica Junior Member

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    Gosh, I was about to ask what Hybrid Pit is, as I've never heard of it. I'm not crazy about the idea of making that long drive with my car as it is, especially in this heat. But I'll consider doing so if their prices would be that much better than anything I can get in the Coachella Valley.

    I'm thinking the $3,600 estimate from my usual mechanic is way too high, yes?

    I was planning to do some more research this weekend and then start making phone calls Monday. I took the car out for a short drive this morning. It still makes the whirring noise every 5 seconds, like clockwork, but otherwise is driving fine with no warning lights. It is making a new noise the last two times I have turned it off, a rather loud continuous mechanical whine, lasting a few seconds. Could that have anything to do with the recent valve replacement?

    Does anyone have any thoughts on whether the car is worth keeping? On the one hand, it's a Toyota with just under 130,000 miles on it. The hybrid battery seems to be holding up well, I'm still getting good mileage and I keep the car garaged. And I just sunk almost $1K into this latest repair. And even used cars are pretty expensive here.

    On the other hand, the car is just plain old and still on the original hybrid battery, which could last me another few years or it could go bad next week. That in addition to the upcoming expense to fix the brake actuator situation.

    Thank you to everyone for your help. I'm grateful for any advice.
     
  15. Danica

    Danica Junior Member

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    Sorry, double post.
     
    #15 Danica, Aug 1, 2026 at 1:46 PM
    Last edited: Aug 1, 2026 at 2:29 PM
  16. saneesh8

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    Listen to the video in the link below. This is my 2009 Prius before the actuator change. It was making sound every ~10 seconds consistently. After replacement, the sound is same, but does not do this that often. Seems the old one was leaking internally and pump was trying to keep up. Replaced with brand new unit from Toyota. It was ~$1.2k like 1.5 years ago for the part. Now close to ~$1.5k. Took me almost a day for me to do it. First time doing it and was going slow. Also the bleeding with the scanner took some time.

    Just like one of the other member posted, drive it till you get a code. Some where i read that it can go for really long time (depends on how bad it is). What i know is brake will not fail completely, but will be hard.

    2009 Prius Brake Actuator Sound - YouTube

    About the cost, don't know about the CA rates. Can you call couple of dealers and ask them how much it is? The rates will vary. For eg: the spark plug replacement on a 2007 Avalon at a local dealer was ~$800, but at a dealer about 40 miles away, it was ~$400. Almost half. Someone recently mentioned that it is like $3k for brake actuator replacement at local dealer.
     
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  17. Danica

    Danica Junior Member

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    Thanks for the link and the advice. I did listen to several videos of Priuses making various noises, I think including that one -- and that is what convinced me convinced me it's probably the brake actuator on my car. Though obviously it sounds quieter and more muffled from inside my car.

    I plan to start making calls on Monday, but I'm nervous. I hate sinking $3K or more into the car when I know the hybrid battery could go bad in the near future. But even used cars are so expensive now, and my Prius does have only 130,000 miles on it.