What voltage does a gen 2 inverter send to the HV battery

I am having charging issues. I have re conditioned my battery pack so it is good. I know what I am doing working around high voltage DC to be safe as I work with solar DC voltages in the high range.

I really hate digital meters because if the voltage fluctuates at all, the meter is all over the place with readings, If the inverter does not put a steady voltage charge because of the electronics, it is hard to know what is normal.

When I try and read the voltage at the battery side of the HV relays with the car off I get a steady voltage, but when I turn the car on, and it starts charging, the meter jumps all around and then maxes out and it is a 750v dc meter. I get the same situation when I set my meter to AC voltage, the meter is all over the place.

I am aware I should not get any ac reading at the HV battery terminals with the car running and charging, but since the digital meter is all over the place on the ac setting just like with the dc setting, I can't tell if it is a slight ac leak from the inverter to the battery like a false voltage, or if it is sending ac with dc through my battery due to a shorted diode in the inverter. I would think if it was an insignificant ac leak like a false voltage my meter was reading, the battery in the circuit would eliminate it.

I tried 2 different meters thinking my meter was bad, and both meters did the same thing. I am thinking my inverter is trash. When I shut off the car, the battery voltage starts dropping back down to normal so it seems like it is overcharging. My bars on my display will sometimes stick at 1 bar when the battery has a full charge at around 219 volts and the engine normally shuts off
Then sometimes when I turn the car off and back on, the bars jump up to the number of bars the car shuts off at when the reading isn't stuck at 1 bar.

The display shows the charging arrow, but the battery level sticks on the display at 1 bar although the battery is fully charged and the engine shuts off.

I know this is TMI, but I am wondering if someone ever checked the voltage at the battery HV terminals with the car running and charging and if so what voltage did you get.

I always disconnect the orange plug before hooking up my meter leads alligator clips to the HV battery relay Posts and turn my meter on, before replacing the plug, and I stay away from my meter while testing the high voltage. Everything is sitting on metal so the worst that could happen is my meter leads could get fried.

I am thinking maybe my HV battery is being overcharged or getting some ac current from the inverter and the BMS is trying to protect it as best it can. My car is not acting normal, mileage is bad and seems to not maintain the bars it used to have , and no longer reaches green bars during regeneration.

Any info from someone who knows the normal voltage at the HV battery during charging would be helpful. I wish I had a working Prius for comparison to troubleshoot.
Think I will hook my meter to one of the 28 cells and see if it is overcharging the cell, At least my voltage reading will be lower and my meter will not peak if I am reading the voltage in series across one cell

 

I found an analog meter that read up to 1K VDC and was able to actually check the voltage. I mentioned hating digital meters and this is the reason why, the analog meter read the voltage as steady with no spikes when the HV battery was charging.
I am not an electronic engineer, but for some reason the word impedance comes to mind, possibly the digital meters have no impedance to weak ac signals in a DC circuit . Maybe I am
using the wrong word, but an analog meter seems to filter out any AC noise in a solid state controlled DC circuit. So I found my inverter is most likely okay as it is not outputting high DC voltages, or leaking AC that could harm my cells

Now that I put that worry to rest I still have an issue, even though my car cycles on and off to charge the hybrid battery, The display will stick on 2 bars as the yellow arrow shows the battery is charging.

So after determining my hybrid battery was charging as it should and the inverter was working properly, I thought the 2 bar reading must be wrong, one reason is only sometimes if I shut the car off and turned it back on again, the bars on the battery display would jump right up to normal, after being stuck on 2 bars just prior to turning the engine off.

The sticking on 2 bars seems to be a communication problem with the display not reading the actual battery charge.

So today, as it stayed stuck on 2 bars no matter how many times it went through it's charging cycles, I decided to try and reset the computers by unplugging the 12v battery and reconnecting it. When I went to turn the car back on, the bars on my display jumped up to full like it should be showing with the charging system working as it should

So now I have to determine why resetting the computers makes the display read the battery properly, I am thinking whichever module does the communicating to affect the bars, it might have issues. I am wondering if it is not my traction module located under the dash on the drivers side which might explain why I am not getting regeneration charging on braking which I was getting before this problem when my battery would fully charge with green bars at the top when braking.

. I will admit I have been dealing with many issues that happened all at once, as I have fixed each one, I found another one, but there still remains a problem.
First I found corrosion on a 2 wire plug on the passenger side of the car above the battery blower behind the panel. I read the Gen 2 Prius is bad about the rear hatch leaking, getting the connector wet and causing corrosion. Around the same time I was having some weak cells in the hybrid battery, and at that time I just replaced the ones that had low voltages, then my inverter pump I found went out. I replaced it. Then my 12v Battery was losing power and would not hold above 12 volts after sitting just a day, it was old and needed replacing. The symptoms and codes as you can imagine were complicated with these many issues seeming to happen all around the same time. I was chasing rabbits down holes, I did have Toyota Tech Stream which was not a huge help because there were many codes

I am persistent when I want to fix something, I have changed the Caps in the Combination meter which fixed a no start problem and been through most of the car from ball joints to Ignition coils to replacing the tire pressure sensors and reprogramming new smart keys with the chip in the remote for when you plug the remote in.

So anyway I read more about reconditioning the HV battery and went through the reconditioning process with a QC3 charger, I made sure each battery had enough MAH capacity , and any cells that did not meet their capacity I replaced, so my battery is not an issue now My reconditioning stopped the red triangle I was getting prior to the recondition.

This car has made it to near 400k and I love it so I intend on keeping it alive.
Now that I know everything as far as the battery charging is working as it should, and I am not getting any codes or dash lights or Red triangles. I seem to have a problem that started as intermittent and is getting more chronic which is my display not properly showing my SOC with the bars sticking below 3 bars unless I reset the computers.

Sorry My post is so long, but if it helps others to not give up as I never have, then for those who have the patience to read it all, maybe it can help them if they have this issue as I intend to find the solution and post it here. So far I have not found anyone having this issue of their display not reading the actual SOC because it would stick at 3 bars or less which only a reset would temporarily fix, making the display read the battery properly for only another charge cycle
Yea I played parts changer for a while, I replaced the Battery module , and the Hybrid computer which made no difference, but at least now I have spares.

I guess I will buy a traction battery module and try that since it is also part of the CAN BUS system that works with the battery. If that does not fix it, it is time to trace wires and look for more bad connections with a schematic and better understanding of what is actually making the bars on the display light up. That requires me to know more about how that part is designed.

I hope anyone who plans to use a digital meter to check the HV battery charging voltage as the car is running and charging, knows if their meter reading jumps around or locks out like it hit the 1000k vdc limit, knows to use an analog meter instead. I also had a clamp on DC amp meter which helped show how much current was flowing into the battery. But the spiky readings on the digital meter was a false reading, just like my Prius display reading was false. It sucks when your car and your tools both lie to you.

if anyone has read this far and has any ideas, I am open to suggestions even though I have an idea of what to try next. The transmission or traction battery module. It is the only other module in the CAN BUS to my knowledge that could affect the battery system operation which includes communication with the display. You never fail till you give up. I never give up. Every day is a new learning experience. Thanks to those trying to help, 2 heads or more is better than one in a SNAFU Murphey's Law world.