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My Method: "Pulse-Cruise / Neutral-Drive-Glide / Resume

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Fuel Economy' started by Mister Swigart, Mar 4, 2007.

  1. Mister Swigart

    Mister Swigart New Member

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    ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
    Edited Note: If you are just coming to this thread, I must warn that I make some mistakes and don't make all the necessary corrections and revisions until post #13. By that time the method will be called Pulse-Cruise/Cancel-Glide/Resume. B) - TLR
    ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

    I know I'm a newbie, but I'm an "old guy" who has been around cars so, I don't feel like a rookie. If you find this entry to be valuable you may make it sticky.

    Well, I just spent the entire day "Sunday Driving" around the city streets, close to home, and practicing along my commute and its varying pathways. I have been reading a great deal here and I have not come across what I'm about to share with this group, but preliminary results from what I've discovered are very promising:

    The materials provided by posters above has not been wasted on this driver. I went out with printed materials in hand to actually try some of these things. It really appeals to the engineer in me, to "play" with the controls and to seek "optimum conditions." What I came up with a little method I will introduce by the name "Pulse-Cruise/Neutral-Drive-Glide/Resume".

    I was out driving today, and was most interested in this 40 to 30 and back to 40 mph business that is touted as being so successful in the articles mentioned to me by so many others. I have been reading a lot here at the Chat.

    I was extremely frustrated with the inconsistent results I was getting. Initially, my results were so far off the 60 mpg number, that it sent me back to read more here. Mainly because I am excessively light-footed when I needed to be getting back on the accelerator, and then, at times, I was excessively heavy footed when I needed light acceleration or steady speed. I also have to watch the screen to "feather" the accelerator. I'm not too good at that, or willing to watch the screen that closely.

    For me, the advice given in the "Pulse-and-Glide" technique used to set the 109 mpg record, definitely worked. Using it, I was getting close to 50 mpg columns consistently all morning -- until now I was lucky to keep an average at 39 mpg -- so that helped.

    While shopping, today, I kept thinking about how well I could do if I could iron out the rough-spots in my technique. Then at one point in my drive I had to drive back on a busy, high-speed stretch, so I accelerated up to 55 and put on my cruise control to not be annoying in traffic to others behind me by slowing down (I think that major thoroughfares are rather organic in that they exhibit a singular character or behavior that is the sum result of the mass-consciousness (or unconsciousness) of its individual drivers at any given time. Drivers who won't keep up with "the flow" -- even when it is somewhat above the posted speed -- can be very dangerous. Even though they are moving, I think of them as obstructions rather like a big boulder in a stream.

    So, there I was using the "Cruise" control to keep up. When traffic slowed or forced me to hit the brakes, my cruise control went off and I had to hit "Resume" as the traffic speed picked up. Just then, the idea hit me. I couldn't wait to try my new bit of inspiration. I got off the thoroughfare and started driving a method that was rather like Pulse-and-Glide but it contained the "Just-put-it-on-Cruise-and-forget-it" thinking that also prevails with some posters here. Recently in another post, I was trying to find out if the record was set by coasting in Neutral at times, but there was no mention of this. Coincidentally, this method that I will suggest will require using Neutral for about 2-seconds, max during each cycle.

    I am calling it The "Pulse-Cruise/Neutral-Drive-Glide/Resume" Method because that is an accurate statement of the steps I taught myself to use as I proceeded. I got onto a stretch of not very busy city driving, you know the roads in the city that have painted yellow lines and are posted at 40 miles per hour. I drive streets like this in my commute everyday. I took the vehicle up to 40 mph, just as I had been doing in my Pulse-and-Glide tests earlier, today. Only now, I introduced a change. When I got up to 40 mph, I set the cruise control so it would remember I want to come back to 40 each time, whenever I can (this is the "Pulse-Cruise" part of my technique. Upon reaching 40 mph and having set the cruise, in one movement, I took my foot off the gas, clicked the shift lever over into Neutral just long enough to make the "N" register on the dash, and then dropped it into drive to begin by deceleration back down to 30 mph as recommended. This is the "Neutral-Drive-Glide" part of my technique. It was important to go to Neutral for about 1-2 seconds to stop the cruise control temporarily until the car bottomed out at 30. Leaving it in drive kept the cruise engaged and I wanted cruise off and on again without having to go through the tedious setting of cruise controls over and over. The final part of my technique is to tap up the "Resume" setting on the cruise lever to begin my very steady (better than I could do with my foot) acceleration back up to 40 mph again in the "Pulse-Cruise" phase as the cycle begins a repeat.

    The preliminary results for this were so immediately rewarding that I had to come home to post this. I had no bars in my consumption record that was ever below 55 mpg. I had several intervals that were 75 and even had some 5 minute intervals that were pegged at 100 mpg. I surprised myself. I'm a newby, my car is brand new (it had 3 miles on it on Presidents Days); it is now on its second tank of gas, it is still in its breaking in period, outside temperatures were in the 40s F. and I was getting results like this!

    I am a little verbose, here, perhaps, but I thought it warranted a clear explanation. Would some veterans please drop what you are doing, and go give this a try. Like I said, I haven't' seen this method as I outlined it or I would just sit on my hands.

    BTW: Someone may say that this method is unsafe and requires too much attention away from the road. I admit I had to practically talk to myself to go through the routine, but it really wasn't any more difficult than learning to drive with a stick-shift was when I was a teenager. It does not require you to look at the screen as it in the Pulse-Glide method in which the record was set. It is very engaging, too, since, you feel more like you are really driving, again.

    The Lone Ranger
    Rides, Again!

    ADDENDUM: I just got back from another test drive. This time I reset the whole shebang to see how I was doing in an isolated period of time. One more hour. This time I drove many different paths. I was never under 55 mpg in the columns, often way above. I would add something here that I didn't mention above. I believe this can be used in most city or country driving. Here's what I would add: It works well for other speeds also, not just 40 to 30 mph. No matter what the posted speed, set your top speed in the cruise at this or just a couple miles above it, since most patrolmen have a small tolerance above. Use the outlined method above. Let your speed drop to other tolerable levels, then hit the resume. I have found that you hit the shift into Neutral just long enough to light the "N." You can feel it, then put it back into drive. I have used this going around curves and turning corners. I wish Toyota had this fixed to the column so that you would not have to feel for the cruise around the turning wheel. I even went back to the freeway. I set 65 tops and let myself drop back to 55. That worked, too. If cars in front of you slow down, just hit it into Neutral and Drive and let up on the gas. Hit resume as soon as you can. The cruise control "resume" works as slow as 25 mph, so one could probably use this technique to drive at all speeds above 25. 42 mph seems to be a magic number for the Prius, so it might be good to set this for all around town travel between 42 and 25. Drop down to other speeds besides 30, hit resume when you can or to keep up in traffic. I tried all different speeds and roads and still kept at 55 mpg or above. There were hills involved at times, too.
     
  2. DFWPrius

    DFWPrius New Member

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    shifting to N and back to D is cycling your shifter more times in 2 miles then most dirvers do in a day.

    I can drive with no load on the engine or the M/G just by using a very light foot pressure, just enough to keep it out of Regen and a bit less then what is needed to run off the battery.

    As to your shifting, remember the computer keeps track of all inputs, shifting power settings and such.
    If something goes wrong and you take it in for warrenty work, the first thing the shop will do is download the
    computer.
     
  3. douglas001001

    douglas001001 smug doug

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    Just curious why you are going into neutral instead of just cancelling cc (pull cc lever), then glide then resume? I was able to go into ws going 55 with cc set after hitting cancel then hit resume after ws glide down to 45. I tried that this morning after reading your idea last night.
     
  4. efusco

    efusco Moderator Emeritus
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    Gotta agree, I completely don't see the point of using neutral here and think it could 1)be potentially dangerous, and 2)reduce the effectiveness of the technique...the reason being that if the ICE is still on when you go into neutral it will stay on until you go into drive...then you're at the mercy of the car as to whether it goes into stealth or not.

    I rarely use CC at those speeds any more to avoid any issues of it 'taking over' and aggressively accelerating. When I do use it I just cancel CC by pulling the stalk forward.
     
  5. Mister Swigart

    Mister Swigart New Member

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    Ok. I admit, that before I'm done with this method, I may be calling it Pulse-Cruise/Footbrake-Glide/Resume.

    I'm a little surprised that the responses to this have been so negative so far. I was very excited by my results. In my first post I tried to explain as carefully as I could all whys and wherefores. Permit me to try again:

    First, why Neutral? Well, I did not want to shift to Neutral (let alone stay in Neutral). It would be great to have the cruise control modified so that you could take it off but have it remember the speed you had it set for, then when you take it off cruise momentarily, you would not have to set it all over again. I would love it if Toyota would make such a cruise control modification, but it's not there (unless I'm missing something in my Manual). I used Neutral and not the foot-brake to discontinue a cruise period, because hitting the brake at street speeds of 25 to 42, I felt, would break the momentum I wanted for the Glide portion of the cycle. I discovered that a gentle 1-2 second tap to Neutral would achieve the desired effect without hitting the footbrake; The desired effect being that I would be able to "Resume" my cruise setting without having to go to all the trouble and distraction of watching the speedometer, raising up to the threshold again, and then setting the cruise. I might just as well not try to induce the Cruise idea if I were to do that. The reason I want to have the Cruise option on at all times is so that I don't have to watch screens, speedometers, and make settings during the driving. I was more concerned about safety than the responses, here, realize. Now, that must be clear. In selecting Neutral I did not feel that it put an undue or even undesired strain on the shifter as it had a nice smooth "feel" to its execution. (But I will reconsider this.)

    Next, any response to what I'm tying to achieve here must be understood to grow out of the ideas from Pulse & Glide or Hypermiling. I was not interested in adding on batteries as some have done to avoid the engine from kicking in. I just want to use the Prius for what its worth and with what its got. So, to make sure we are all on the same page I am including a few links that were presented to me here at the Forum during my inquiries about "optimum speeds" for the Prius. I will have to assume that the responders will be familiar with this, too:

    http://hybridcars.about.com/od/ownership/a/pulseandglide.htm
    http://www.post-gazette.com/pg/05220/550484.stm
    http://www.cleanmpg.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1224
    http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/conte...6080301215.html
    http://www.toyota.com/html/hybridsynergyvi.../fall/mpgs.html
    http://www.toyota.com/html/hybridsynergyvi...l/marathon.html

    In one article it said,
    Hypermileage techniques are not for everyday driving. They have to be practiced in controlled conditions and then become "second nature" because of the attention that must be paid to the dashboard display

    Well, I spent the better part of one day just driving to see what they were talking about. That phrase "not for everyday driving" was something I could agree with, but what knowledge can you walk away with that you can apply to "everyday driving?" I found that the ideas might be put to "everyday" use and that it wasn't too hard to discipline yourself to do it.

    Now, this business of hardship on the shifter and the blackbox telling on me and throwing the warranty out the window, may have some influence on my method, but the idea is still sound, I believe. I am not afraid of the Cruise control racing or sticking or anything like that, either. I find that you can use it in busy traffic, keeping your distance, around city driving including freeways and other major thoroughfares. You don't want to do this while you are talking on your cell phone. But I do believe that talking on the cell phone is a far more dangerous practice than what I'm proposing.

    Finally, your posts have not gone unheeded. I will use the rest of this week in my actual commutes to experiment with the alternative Pulse-Cruise/Footbrake-Glide/Resume Method I am left with. I will try to develop a short, quick tap of the footbrake to disengage the Cruise with the minimum loss of momentum to begin my descending velocity. The added bonus to this is that the rear brake light will come on to let the car behind me know that I'm slowing down. (I will just pretend to be looking for a street adress, each time ;^) I do).

    I was hoping to get more interest from the PC Forum and to get some others to try what I'm suggesting and have already found provides great results in "everyday driving." Please read the articles and give it a try. So Pulse-Cruise/Footbrake-Glide/Resume here I come as

    The Lone Ranger
    Rides Again!
     
  6. orangeblood

    orangeblood Junior Member

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    Hey Lone Ranger, thanks for the very interesting idea.

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(The Lone Ranger @ Mar 6 2007, 01:04 AM) [snapback]400682[/snapback]</div>
    I don't understand this part. In my 2005, I just pull back on the cruise control stick and it disengages CC. It remembers the speed, all I need is to "resume" to get back to speed.

    Another part of this that I wanted to clarify is your definition of glide. Just wanted to make sure you know you should be gliding without any regen taking place (so it amounts to the car being in neutral, though you don't actually have it in neutral). I think you know this, but with the talk of being in "N" for a brief second or two, I wasn't sure if you were coming out of that still in a proper "glide."

    Anyway, your results sound fantastic, and I'm interested in hearing more from you on this.

    Thanks!
     
  7. Mister Swigart

    Mister Swigart New Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(orangeblood @ Mar 5 2007, 10:08 PM) [snapback]400733[/snapback]</div>

    I'm interested in hearing back from others who will give it a try. Now that memory I'm talking about is on the cruise control as long as it is "On" (on the 2007 it is on the end of the short stick attached to the steering wheel. I want to avoid turning the Cruise control "Off" because it does not remember and must be reset. So, that's where the "Neutral" (in the first example) OR the "Footbrake" in the revised method come in. They take you off the cruise speed without actually turning cruise control truly off, thereby maintaining its capability to return or "Resume" speed. If there is another setting that can accomplish this, I don't know about it; it would sure make it sweet if there is. It's late and I will look into this again, tomorrow.

    If there is a way to disengage from the cruise speed to allow the descent to the lower threshold and yet resume, all this business of Neutral or Footbrake would be unnecessary. I will feel like the lumberjack who trades in his ax for a chainsaw, has difficulty with it cutting trees, returns it with a complaint to the vendor, who starts it up to see what is wrong with it, only to have the Lumberjack say, "Huh? What's that noise?"
    Old joke, but I could be missing something.

    I need another long day with this to check for generative, regenerative, and off phases. It would be ideal to get some pictures of the screen in its typical modes during each phase of the cycle. If what I am calling "Glide" happens to be regenerating charge to the battery and I'm still getting these high mpg results wouldn't that be better than not generating any charge to the battery? So far, I'm never below 2 bars (at the top in white) on my battery's discharge. That's better than what I think you'll get when their is absolutely no regeneration. So, I will look into this to see if I'm using the word "Glide" offhandedly, too. Still, the results are very good.

    TLR
     
  8. TheForce

    TheForce Stop War! Lets Rave! Make Love!

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(The Lone Ranger @ Mar 6 2007, 02:14 AM) [snapback]400767[/snapback]</div>
    I tried your method the other night just to see what would happen but I canceled the cruse control early when I seen that it revved up the engine over 2400rpm. I'm trying to keep it below 2400rpm this tank to see what my results are.

    Any way I dont see why you need to be going into neutral. When you have the cruse control on you set it by pushing down on the stick. To cancel you pull back on the stick just like you would to flash your lights at someone. To resume speed as long as you havnt gone below 25mph ( I think 25mph and below is when it forgets your set speed ) you will press up on the stick and this will get you to your set speed. I think cruse control is too aggressive.
     
  9. tripp

    tripp Which it's a 'ybrid, ain't it?

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(theforce @ Mar 6 2007, 12:23 AM) [snapback]400768[/snapback]</div>
    That's been my experience. I have a short (~5mi) commute on mostly divided hwy but there are several lights (including 2 new, dreadful ones that piss me off to no end <_< ) over pretty hilly terrain. I can't use CC effectively at all on my commute do to the above conditions and in my experience the CC tends to be pretty aggro. It makes some sense due to the hills in the area but since the car can't look ahead and anticipate conditions I think it tends to over do it.
     
  10. JimboK

    JimboK One owner, low mileage

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(The Lone Ranger @ Mar 5 2007, 11:04 PM) [snapback]400682[/snapback]</div>
    I think it's terrific that you're so pumped about the prospect of optimal fuel economy. It took me awhile to get to focus on that, so in that regard you're a much faster learner than me. Frankly, I didn't know what I didn't know until after I'd hung out here and on similar forums for months.

    I wouldn't term responses to your posts negative. Consider that many here have been driving the Prius and, in a few cases, actually studying best driving practices objectively, for years. The collective experience is immense. Odds are, they've been there, done that.

    Good luck with your hypermiling!
     
  11. douglas001001

    douglas001001 smug doug

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(JimboK @ Mar 6 2007, 09:06 AM) [snapback]400794[/snapback]</div>
    Right, I was just asking why you were using neutral instead of just cancelling your cc (which still leaves your target mph in memory for you to resume back to after cancelling).

    If you think that cc can pulse you more efficiently than your foot then it is probably a good alternative for those without good foot pedal control.. but is it better than setting cc at your avg mph and letting it go since most think that cc acceleration is too fast?
     
  12. hobbit

    hobbit Senior Member

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    It sounds like what you're getting with the CC game is the effect of
    pulse-n-glide, i.e. you're running the engine fairly hard to get
    up to speed and then backing off and letting it do its gliding
    thing. You *will* do better than by babying the thing, whether it's
    by CC or right foot or whatever.
    .
    _H*
     
  13. Mister Swigart

    Mister Swigart New Member

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    Man, do I have to do some back-pedalling here! I have been dying to write back all day. Work is out, so now I will.

    On the drive this morning I had the whole thing clear up. There IS a way to obtain all that I had suggested using the Neutral and/or the Footbrake by simply using the Cruise Control. I think some of you may have been alluding to this in your previous posts but I didn't catch on until a couple of posts ago. The cruise controls in my other cars had always been without this "Cancel" feature. (I had to hit my brake and then resume or take it off cruise altogether) I had my steering wheel in such an angle that I had never seen the word "Cancel" written on the top edge of the handle. But there it is. Just what I was suggesting Toyota add, was there all along. So I feel just like the Lumberjack in my little joke I mentioned above. Kind of dumb. So if you can forgive an old fool, I will try to salvage this. (It takes a big man to admit his mistake -- and I'm enormous! :lol: )

    On the way to work this morning I pulled up and inward and sure enough there was another function there that I had overlooked. I looked for some written indication of this function and that's when I found the word "Cancel" written around the North edge just over the cliff :rolleyes: . I wanted to plead, "the sun was in my eyes!" like they do in baseball, but I just didn't see it.

    Now if its possible to still save face with this group, I still think the method I'm suggesting has great value. I just have to come up with another name for it. Now I must call it: Pulse-Cruise/Cancel-Glide/Resume. I'm still not sure whether my Glide phase coincides with that of the Pulse & Glide proponents exactly in terms of regeneration or no-regeneration, but if you've been following this, it's still a method worth trying out, because the results were so good. I now believe that during what I call "Glide" there is regeneration of the battery (a feint blue or greenish arrow back to the battery -- I'm a bit color blind).

    So here is the method revised again: Let's say we are in everyday driving in city streets where the signs are posted between 25 and 45 mph, we have cars in front of us (I won't ever be following too closely with this method):

    1. Pulse-Cruise
    Turn the Cuise button "On." Leave it on for the duration of your drive. Using the idea of the Pulse phase, as discussed in the article, take yourself up to the speed you wish to set as the upper threshold. It might be the speed of the car in front of you or the speed limit or something else that you will have to use: your upper limits may change as you go along and other things come up, too. Nevertheless, the idea is still the same: pulse up to the speed that you can best drive safely at. Now "Set" your Cruise Control by flicking the handle down. It will kick in to hold that speed but you are now ready for the next phase which will interrupt the maintanence of that speed:

    2. Cancel-Glide
    Now in order to replicate the Glide phase of Pulse and Glide, hit the "Cancel" by lifting up and inward (toward your chest) on the Cruise Control handle. (You can feel a little dimple underneath in the one I have) Your foot is completely off the gas and going to be kept off as long as you can keep these cycles going. Now, let your speed drop off and glide down to your lower threshold. Again this speed may vary. Cars may be behind you and you will not want to drop too low. 30 was the lower threshold in the Pulse & Glide articles, but you can drop as low as 25 mph and still go to the next step. Below 25 you will have to go back to step #1 to reset all over again, so try not to drop below 25. Again, drop to whatever speed the conditions will safely allow. Then go to the next step.

    3. Resume
    Since Cancel only interrupts the Cruise Control without turning it "Off" you can go back to your upper threshold again. Just swing the Cruise Control switch back up (toward the windshield) to engage the "Resume" setting.

    1. Pulse-Cruise
    Immediately the car will accelerate in a very steady and gradual rate returning to the Pulse-Cruise phase. I do not feel that it is too aggressive, but you do have to be alert and in control. (Put that damn cell-phone down and drive -- the game is afoot, Watson!")

    Now, I don't know if this replicates the Pulse & Glide verbatim in its effects at all. It was simply inspired by it. It replicates, I think, some of the desired effects of Pulse & Glide. I do think it does a good enough job for "everyday driving," and gets great results. And thanks to the input and corrections made by the help of this group, it no longer taxes shifter, should not void any warranty, and with just a little practice, makes for a very safe drive.

    Well, that's it for now. I hope you will give it another try and forgive the Neutral and Footbrake ideas I felt was necessary while under the misapprehension that there was no "Cancel" on the Toyota. I hope, now I will get some serious attempts at replicating my 55 to 75 mpg results I've seen in preliminary testing. I need some real time, now, through several tanksfull. Again, keep in mind that I am in some cold country, the car is not kept in any garage, the car is not broken in, I do not have the engine blocked, I'm new at this kind of driving and goals, and I am already getting great results that I think will prove to be as good as those posted by so many others here with their Green Stickers at the bottom of posts.

    Please share any results, you are getting.

    Down, but not out,

    The Lone Ranger
    Rides, Again!
     
  14. brick

    brick Active Member

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    I think the only thing you are missing from your technique is a true glide, which doesn't happen when your foot is completely off the gas. In your case the car is regenerating slightly in order to simulate the engine drag of a normal car. It puts energy in the battery at the cost of coasting distance. All you need to do is put your foot on the accelerator and just barely apply pressure. You will feel the drag go away in the seat of your pants as the car starts to glide free...no need to stare at the energy monitor. With practice it becomes second nature, and your foot goes to exactly the right spot every time. The distance travelled before needing to re-engage the engine will be much more satisfying.

    I think you're on the right track to efficient driving. I also think that getting used to the drivetrain and letting your foot do the work will pay off in the long run vs. having to deal with the cruise control as well. That way you can explore the glide territory in the 20mph region which, when there is absolutely nobody else around, results in some insanely long gliding.

    As always, be careful and don't get too carried away!
     
  15. adam1991

    adam1991 New Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(The Lone Ranger @ Mar 4 2007, 07:01 PM) [snapback]400040[/snapback]</div>
    http://priuschat.com/index.php?showtopic=30065&st=101

    Please be a curious engineer on your own time, and don't involve the rest of the world.
     
  16. Mister Swigart

    Mister Swigart New Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(adam1991 @ Mar 6 2007, 07:23 PM) [snapback]401335[/snapback]</div>

    Did you even read these posts? My disposition was to come up with a way of getting similar results to what the "engineers" were getting without having to watch the dashboard. We all watch the speedometer or isn't that allowed? I am a human being, therefore I am a curious engineer. What value is there in anything if you aren't involved with the rest of the world? Safety rides shotgun over my method.

    The Lone Ranger
    (Not Tonto - Spanish for foolish)
     
  17. orangeblood

    orangeblood Junior Member

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    Just ignore him, Lone Ranger. He'll be the one holding up traffic at a green light because he's fiddling with his SkyFi radio.

    I will second Brick's suggestion that you learn how to get the car into a true glide... it will make your results even better. Let us know how it goes!
     
  18. adam1991

    adam1991 New Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(orangeblood @ Mar 7 2007, 12:07 AM) [snapback]401443[/snapback]</div>
    Not a chance. I'll be the one exploring the use of the electric motor.

    But I'm serious. If you want to explore your toy, fine--but don't do it in traffic at the expense of other drivers.
     
  19. orangeblood

    orangeblood Junior Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(adam1991 @ Mar 7 2007, 04:10 AM) [snapback]401497[/snapback]</div>
    Now that's a more reasonable and civil response. I don't think there are many in this forum who advocate disrupting traffic, so next time you might try not carpet-bombing an entire thread.

    Fiddling with cell phones, stereos, etc. is likely to be far more dangerous, but it wouldn't be fair for us to excoriate every person who uses these items, either.
     
  20. hobbit

    hobbit Senior Member

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    Hey, Loney, no need to save face. Watching people learn and discover
    and rant at length about it is why we're all here! By July you'll
    be ready to kick all our butts in the Hybridfest MPG run.
    .
    _H*