Cleaning the Prius

If you mean washing it, just wash like any other car. I like to get the car wet before touching it, as the water limits the scratching possible from the dust being dragged across the paint. I use a wash mitt, and rinse it frequently with the wash hose.

When cleaning the inside of the rear window (hatch glass), be gentle. The defrost traces can be broken if you rub too hard across them, and watch out when wiping around the defrost connectors. It's possible to have the cloth catch on them and tear them off the glass!

DO NOT use a high pressure washer on the radiator/A/C condenser. It will flatten the fins.

Clean the wheels last. That way, any grit you get on the wash mitt/ cloth will not cause problems on the paint of the car body.

When done, if you use a mitt or wash cloth and towel or chamois to dry, wash them in the laundry so they will be clean and grit free for the next wash.

If you are talking of the interior, use a good vacuum cleaner first. If there are any stains on the rug use a rug cleaner and vacuum it out after it dries. Use upholstery cleaner on the seats, except leather. Use a leather cleaner/conditioner system on leather seats (I like the Zaino products for this).

The carpet is damaged the most from rocks and sand, so concentrate on vacuuming that out. Vibrating the carpet with the hose tool helps to release the stuff that settles into the carpet.

 

Don't use any ArmourAll products on the interior.

 

Get some Micro Fiber wash cloths. They are fantastic for washing and drying. They do it all.

Buy some car wash soap. I used to always use dishwashing liquid, but I heard it is bad for the paint, so now I use car wash soap. Mix with warm water, just like dish soap, to the stength that produces generous suds.

Use the garden hose to spay off all the loose dirt and wet the car thoroughly first. Then get a bunch of suds on a microfiber cloth and start working off the stuborn dirt. I like to use my other hand bare to feel for any rough dirt or grit to make sure I am not rubbing it into the paint.

Rinse out the micro fiber cloth and use it to go over the entire surface again while rinsing to remove all the soap residue.

Then holding the cloth by two oposit corners, fold it into third and give it a good ringining out and use it to dry the car. Get most of the standing water off with one pass over each area, then ring it out again and give it a final drying.

You can use a weaker mix of the car wash soap inside too. If there are stains on the floor mats that won't vacume out, you can throw them all in a large capacity washer and run the gentle cycle. Then air dry, but I like to minimize doing this to keep them newer looking.

It is true, Armor all is very bad stuff, but 303 Aero protector is good stuff for lightly spaying on the plastic parts and wiping off to leave a nice sheen.

 

A Swiffer is handy for removing dust from the dash and interior. Don't dust or wipe the screen with a slightly damp cloth if it's on or you may push screen buttons.

 

Oh, and almost forgot, the Mr Clean Magic Eraser will take scuff marks off the interior plastic.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Godiva @ Jun 26 2007, 10:03 PM) [snapback]468615[/snapback]</div>

Godiva,

Why should you not use these products?

Personal preference or have you had a bad experience? Please expand on your comment.

Thanks!

 

You have not washed it in 7 months?!?!?

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Hard_working_student @ Jun 27 2007, 09:51 AM) [snapback]468794[/snapback]</div>

There have been reports that over time it dries out the plastic and it cracks.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Godiva @ Jun 27 2007, 11:29 AM) [snapback]468888[/snapback]</div>

I have heard this too. I have not used any Armor-all since 1981. Found the finish it left too shiny.
Perhaps they have changed the formula by now.

I hang in the Concours crowd with my Porsche, and I don't know anyone who uses Armor-all. Lexol makes a good product for leather and vinyl care.

BEWARE*********

Whatever you end up using, if it has a silicone in it, DO NOT USE IT on your pedals or floor mats. It will make the surface(s) slippery.

 

Mr. Clean Autodry is a great low-labor way to wash the exterior.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Godiva @ Jun 26 2007, 08:03 PM) [snapback]468615[/snapback]</div>

NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! armour all is baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaad!

i love zaino! i use the leather cleaner or leather in a bottle on, not only the seats, but the dash! works GREAT!

i use invisible glass on the windows/tint...

and, of course, i use zaino on the outside, too! car wash.... and LOTS of Z6 (i guess there's new all in one stuff out.... but i still have a big supply of z5/z2 and z6! i even use z6 on my very pampered road bike and mountain bike!!)

 

I love the Zaino polish products. I use the old style, starting with Z1. Did you know Z1 will remove stains/dirt that even aggressive solvents will not touch? And Z1 will not harm the paint!
Z1, followed by Z2 and wiped off when dry. Then "cleaned off" with Z6. Followed by more Z2, if you're crazy like me. And again. And possibly again. You can't have too much Zaino on your car!

 

I use Meguiar's products.

Mostly NXT.

Get good tools. Be careful with microfiber. They are not all alike. The really cheap ones will leave swirls. I use two buckets and a grit guard.

Car detailing tips.


This is what I own, what I use and how I do it:

Absorber (2)
bucket (2)
Grit guard (2)
Meguiar's:
Sponge
Lamb's wool mop
Meguiar's Tire Brush
Slide Lock Detail Brush
Triple Duty Detail Brush
PlastX
ScratchX
Insane Shine Tire
Protectant wipes
Dash trim
NXT glass cleaner
Microfiber towel (5)
Microfiber glass towels (3)
Gold Class applicator pad (6)
Chenille applicator pad (2)
G12664 NXT car wash
Deep Crystal polish
NXT Tech wax
Quick Clay white bar (2)
NXT speed detailer
#83
#80
G104 Dual Action polisher
W8006 Yellow soft buff foam polishing pad (3-5) - for A2116 Deep Crystal polish
W8006 Yellow soft buff foam polishing pad (3-5) - for NXT Tech Wax
W9006 Tan Softbuff finishing pad (2-4)
W7006 Burgundy softbuff cutting pad with X4003 Gold Class Clear Coat Safe Microfiber bonnet (2) to remove wax.

**********

Wash with NXT due to local hard water. Wash bucket with grit guard for shampoo. Second bucket with grit guard for rinsing only.

Clay the car using NXT detailer if needed.

Use Scratch-X if needed. Clean with NXT detailer again. (Do not let ScratchX dry.)

Apply Deep Crystal Polish with W8006 Yellow soft buff foam polishing pad at speeds 3-5. Small sections.

Remove while still wet with microfiber towel. Small sections.

Apply NXT Tech Wax using either another W8006 or a W9006 Tan softbuff finishing pad at speeds 2-4. Try at 3 - 3.5. Do entire car and let dry.

Remove with W7006 cutting pad WITH microfiber bonnet at speeds 2.5. DON'T FORGET THE BONNET!

Use detailing brushes to do the emblems and badges. Use the microfiber glass towels and the NXT glass cleaner. Use protectorant on the outside plastic. If the inside plastic needs it use PlastX. Use protectorant wipes on interior.

Tires are done last with tire brush and a sponge dedicated only to tires. Afterwards Insane Shine is applied.

All microfiber towels are washed together in one load. They are NOT mixed with anything else in the washer.

 

If you are talking of the interior, use a good vacuum cleaner first. If there are any stains on the rug use a rug cleaner and vacuum it out after it dries. Use upholstery cleaner on the seats, except leather. Use a leather cleaner/conditioner system on leather seats (I like the Zaino products for this).

The carpet is damaged the most from rocks and sand, so concentrate on vacuuming that out. Vibrating the carpet with the hose tool helps to release the stuff that settles into the carpet.
[/quote]
You will not believe this: I use the gardeners blower to clean the insides. Its so quick, too.
Open all the doors and blow everything. Blow the drivers side out to passengers side, and vice versa.
Its amazing, how much dust gets blown out, esp, the the seat backs. It seems that if one drives with the windows down, more dust lodges into the head rest area and top of the seat. The blower takes care of that.
Also, the blower is lighter than a vaccuum. The blower also helps me with the washing. After rinsing the outside, I blow dry as much as possible, than shammy the rest of the car dry.
? Different strokes for different folks?

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Godiva @ Jun 26 2007, 11:03 PM) [snapback]468615[/snapback]</div>

+1. I used armorall on my dash about 4 months ago and I still have some oily-looking marks.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Masnyd @ Jun 26 2007, 07:25 PM) [snapback]468605[/snapback]</div>

You have not washed your car in seven months???

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Hard_working_student @ Jun 27 2007, 07:51 AM) [snapback]468794[/snapback]</div>

All AA does is make things look wet and greasy... because it is silicone oil. Not good for much of anything except lubrication. You want a real protectant? Use 303 Aerospace and be done with it. Inside and out. Toss the AA.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Prius The First @ Jun 27 2007, 11:33 AM) [snapback]468940[/snapback]</div>

AA is still silicone oil.

Like I said... Most protectants will make things a little bit slippery. AA shouldn't be used for many reasons - this is just one.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Zaxxon @ Jun 28 2007, 01:49 PM) [snapback]469643[/snapback]</div>

Wipe as much of that goo off as you can, and apply some 303. Most of the AA will be gone. The second time you do it, you should be good to go.

No, I have no stake in the company. Been using 303 on bikes, boats and cars for 20+ years (damn, can that be right?), and swear by it. Anything that is plastic, rubber or fabric (if you want to protect exterior fabrics like bike bags, saddle covers, boat seats etc).

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Masnyd @ Jun 26 2007, 09:25 PM) [snapback]468605[/snapback]</div>

If you have leaf blower, use it to blow off the access water, especially around the wipers and door handles and other recesses.