What brands of oil do you use?

So I am just now reaching 5000 miles. Getting ready to take the '07 Prius into the dealer for the first oil change. It will be free along with free tire rotation since I bought the car from this dealer. I am thinking about going to synthetic. It sounds like people here that use syn. oil are happy with it. I'm sure I'll have to pay the extra cost but I am willing to do that. I use syn. oil in my Harley and like it. Anyone really against Syn. oil in the Prius?

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(pdx07prius @ Nov 10 2007, 02:21 PM) [snapback]537713[/snapback]</div>

I made the same mistake I do not reccommend going to the dealership at all. At my 5000 mile checkup I was naive and as a result shelled out 75 dollars for this

I'm coming up on my 10,000 now and plan to do the oil change and tire rotation myself and save a bunch of money.

oh and the dealership gave me some bs about putting in some sort of additive in the oil. They told me it negated the effects of 10% ethanol fuel. I never asked for this additive, good or bad (my opinion bad), and im not even sure they put it in in the first place so ive decided the only way to really take care of my car is to not let someone else take care of it for me

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(pdx07prius @ Nov 10 2007, 02:21 PM) [snapback]537713[/snapback]</div>

I've been running synthetic oil in my BMW bikes and all the cars I've owned the last 15 years. The only downside to full synthetic is the cost. In every other way it is superior to regular oil. Change the oil and filter yourself, use full synthetic, and you wind up paying the same amount for an oil change done at a garage with conventional oil.

Look at the poll results. They support what I'm saying.

Harry

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Earthling @ Nov 10 2007, 01:53 PM) [snapback]537727[/snapback]</div>

I use Amsoil 0-20w with Amsoil filters now. Oil is changed at 24,000.
I had been using their series 2000 in my Insight and changing it at around 36,000. It now has 160,000 miles on it and still averages 75 to 80 mpg per tank with no oil leakage or use. Instead of changing the oil 10 to 12 times a year, I change it once for a decent savings in time and money.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(AOV @ Nov 9 2007, 01:42 PM) [snapback]537358[/snapback]</div>

It is 5k miles, with all oils... unless you live in Europe... then you only need to change about every 10k miles, because their "regular" oil is equivalent to our synthetic oil. If I were you, I'd stick with dino oil, since theres no point in putting synthetic (unless you live in COLD areas or are able to go 10k miles before a chance).

That being said, there ARE small benefits for using synthetic:

Better flow at cold temps
Improves millage slightly
Reduced breakdown, allowing longer change intervals (if your not worried about your warranty, or if the warranty expires)
Reduces dependence on foreign oil

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Bob64 @ Nov 11 2007, 03:14 AM) [snapback]537924[/snapback]</div>

If you mean "cold" as it is now (20's at night) then yes, I should benefit by changing to synthetic. What do we get here, about 5 months of cold weather being upstate NY?
I was also looking forward to a slightly better mileage as well, but the clincher is...and I never thought of it until you mentioned it...."reduces dependence on foreign oil", now that in itself should be the reason why everyone should go synthetic!!!
And as far as the warranty....since I am planning on doing it myself, and I have enough filters and oil purchased thus far, my proof, that I could have changed it every 5K miles, so....no one should think that I did not.
The hubby was frowning at me as I was telling him of my plans. Yet, if the synthetic oil is as good as everyone (almost everyone) says it is for the car's engine, then there should be no issues with the warranty what-so-ever.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(AOV @ Nov 12 2007, 11:09 AM) [snapback]538367[/snapback]</div>

It seems like winter is half the year here...

I guess it depends on whether you have a heated garage, but I don't, so my cars have to start cold, really cold, and full-synthetic oil helps protect better under those circumstances.

Synthetic oil also runs cleaner. You'll never have sludge with synthetic oil.

Harry

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Earthling @ Nov 12 2007, 11:19 AM) [snapback]538379[/snapback]</div>

Garage yes, ....no, not heated, and also it does not "fit" in the garage...too much of everything else in there, so now I am more reassured that I have done the right thing.

 

There is no oil change requirement interval in the warrenty.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Winston @ Nov 12 2007, 07:14 PM) [snapback]538623[/snapback]</div>

 

I have used Amsoil 0W-30 oil for years now. It used to be Series 2000 0W-30 which was rated for changes at 24,000 miles. (In my Dodge Intrepid, I would change the filter at 12,000 because it was not rated to live that long. Every time I sent this oil for analysis, it came back well within the acceptable limits at 24,000 MI.

I currently use Amsoil's Signature Series OW-30 which has a change interval of 35,000 miles. (The new Ea line of filters are rated for 25,000 MI so I change them around 17,000 and top off the oil).

I just did my first 35,000 change and have not gotten the test results yet but the oil looked clearer than standard oil looks at the 5,000 MI mark. I also test when I do the first filter change. That test came back with nothing even close to 50% wear for the oil. (Half of the difference between the immaculate new oil and what is considered a problem).

The cost is higher but now I only have to change my oil about every 8 or 9 months rather than every 1-1/2 months.

 

3.5 qts. Mobil 1, Bosch oil filter, changed every 5K and noted and signed in the Service Passport that came with the Prius (every Prius driver should know what and where that is, and what it says).

Oh, and we change the oil ourselves. I have photos, too.

 

In my owners manual, it says to use oil that has the ITASC standard, or something like that.

When I want an oil change done by the shop down the street, they point to their shelf of about every major brand and ask which one. Reading the labels, I was surprised to see that most of the big name brands don't have the ITASC standard. All the snythentics did. I don't remember Penzoil and Quaker State claim to meet it, so I assume that they do not. Castrol GTX does, and and so when using their services, I have chosen the 10w-30 Castrol GTX oil.

 

You mean ILSAC, right? The current ILSAC is based on API specs, and the GF-4 still allows an oil to thicken almost 100% in service and "pass." The oil can allow cold gelation in service, cold stuck rings, etc

It's an easy spec to meet, I'm sure you've noticed even the cheapest no-name oil here meets it

The European ACEA specs are far stricter, typically run at 2-3 times the test interval, with far tighter standards. Mobil 1 0W-40 meets the tough ACEA A3, B3/B4 standards, in addition to the Mercedes and BMW extended service requirements

 

I enjoy these discussions and I'll offer up yet another opinion. Yes, synthetic is superior in every way and I use it in my Prius. Will it make my engine last longer if I use it... probably not. Dino oil is fine when the oil is changed every 5000 miles. In the engine with heavy carbon and other contaminants as a result of the combustion process and an unsealed system allowing in other contaminates, the only way to remove the particulates is to change the oil and use a quality oil filter. It doesn't matter that the synthetic is superior, it never gets a chance to show its colors.

In a sealed system like a gearbox or differential is where the benefit of synthetics really shine. Their ability to resist shearing and their ultra lubricious qualities along with their low pour point and their ability to keep particles in suspension is stellar. So, in a system where the dictate is to keep the lube working for 60,000 miles, synthetics are really the best choice. In an engine where the oil is changed every 5000 miles, the benefit seems tenuous at best. I guess it comes down to what makes you feel good. I like the feeling I get for using synthetic in my engine almost as much as I get from driving a Prius where I can show the world I can make my own choices and mine aren't always the same as everyone elses. It will probably make no difference in the life of your motor whatever oil you use if you change it every 5000 miles and use a good filter.
-Paul R. Haller-

 

Redline 5W30 synthetic and factory or NAPA filters for all of my vehicles.

 

Now that a quart of oil cost about $2.50 and up, I stick with the 'On Sale' on the shelf. I pay $1.98 a quart for Valvoline, Pennzoil, or Quaker State oils. Off course, just 5W30 for my new Prius.

 

I have covered this topic ad nauseum, but am in a good mode so here goes again:

You have to keep in mind the absolute bottom-feeder garbage API specs still allow a minimum-spec GF-4 oil to experience cold gellation, cold stuck rings, and an increase in use of almost 100% to earn a "pass" mark.

The European ACEA spec oils - especially the premium A3/B3-B4 rated oils - are tested at 3 times longer intervals, with far stricter requirements. This is why in the EU, a 12 month or 10,000 mile oil change is now considered "frequent," with many cars offering up to 24 months or 30,000 mile oil change intervals

Heavy duty engine oils, intended to cope with heavy soot in a large diesel motor, are also refined differently than cheap passenger car oils. The test requirements are completely different, and the quality requirements are far stricter

Motor oil isn't magic, it's advanced chemical engineering. The additive package determines how well the oil holds up to your "heavy carbon" buildup. For example, fresh garbage API/ILSAC oil will almost immediately allow sludge buildup if operated consistently in temps of -30 C and colder. You would have to change the oil daily

Consider the total base number - TBN - of a min spec passenger oil is usually around 5. An ACEA A3/B3 - B4 rated oil has a TBN of 11 or higher, so it has a much higher reserve than a cheap oil.

I have tested the synthetics in my vehicles at 5,000 miles, and the TBN was still better than a fresh new min-spec passenger oil. Typically, a good synthetic run 2-3 times the interval will still have better ending TBN than a min-spec oil after 5,000 miles

Remember how Toyota got burned by some sludged motors. Rather than follow the EU lead of requiring a better oil, then almost universally lowered the oil change interval from 7,500 miles to 5,000 miles

The same motors were used in the EU. How many of them sludged up running on ACEA spec oils? As a hint, that sludge settlement only applies to North America

I used to have a 1990 Totota 4Runner 3.0 V6, purchased new. It spent most of its life in Utah, so I ran Mobil Delvac 5W-40, changing the oil filter every 6 months, the oil every year or two. Over 300,000 km on it when the dealer in Canada wanted it in for the complimentary head gasket job.

They were amazed at the condition of the motor. The heads and valvetrain were spotless, cylinders still had full crosshatch.

The only downside to a 5W-40 is that it is too thick for cold temps. A heavy duty engine maker will typically state a synthetic 5W-40 should not be used in temps colder than -30 C, some will say that down to -40 C is ok. In cooler temps the fuel economy will be affected

Running Mobil 1 0W-20 in winter I realized around 5 MPG improvement over the 0W-30. THis is in temps down to -40 C. In summer there is no difference in fuel economy that I can measure

I ran Esso XD-3 0W-40 in my FJ this summer with great results, and good fuel economy for a vehicle that size. I thought I would run Mobil 1 5W-20 as a "winter" oil, I currently have around 3,000 km on the oil and last Friday sent off a sample. If it tests marginal, the Esso XD-3 goes back in

In the end, you have to use an oil appropriate for your climate and operating conditions. In a moderate climate a conventional oil - with 5,000 mile or shorter intervals - should be ok.