Anybody upgraded the Shift Knob?

It is threaded.

 

The only way I'd replace mine is with a Sam Adam's tap handle.

 

Here is the close up:

 

Daeltos,

Can you give us the diameter and thread pattern?

ZC1

 

Sorry, I don't own a caliper. The thread pattern though is just a normal thread that unscrews counter-clockwise.

 

HackIT,

Make it easy on yourself, go to Autozone or whatever, and buy one of their shift knobs, check it out, and return it.
Then you can buy the more expensive one you really want.

ZC1

 

thread pitch gauge?
thx zc1 for the info down below

 

I was really excited to see those shift knobs until I saw the price haha. If I had money to spend on something like that, I definitely would. I can't wait to see pics of the new shift knob in your car.

 

I got off my butt to remove and measure the shifter with a caliper, for the fine folks at PC.

Here ya go:
(2008 model, at least)

Shifter shaft thickness: 7mm or 1/4" (at unthreaded solid portion)
Shifter shaft thickness: 6mm (at threaded portion) (use 1/4" instead)
Shifter shaft threads: 20 per inch
Shifter threaded shaft length: 15mm
Shifter shaft total length: 39mm (to highest point of faceplate plastic) (which is the hump (finger) between spring back position and neutral)
Shifter shaft clearance from nearest plastic wall: 12mm (right plastic wall)

Stock knob dimensions:
Shaft hole width (internal): 10mm, narrowing to 9mm
Knob base width (outside): 15mm tapering upwards to 23mm (clear plastic portion of knob)
Knob total length: 63.5mm (from end to end at longest point)
Knob base from plastic panel distance: 6mm
Knob nose from plastic panel distance: 70mm

This means look for a shifter knob that accepts a 1/4x20 threaded shaft.
You only have 12mm of free room at the base of the shifter shaft (not knob) before it contacts the right hand plastic wall.
The knob nose stops at 70mm into empty space. (Meaning it sticks out that far)

I've given the lengths of most everything you will need. You can do the mm calculator conversions.

Hope this helps some poor soul, now go out and conquer.


ZC1

 

OK...I found a knob at the auto parts store in the clearance bin. It was $4 so I figured it would be worth the experiment.

It fits, but it's tight on the right side of the gate. Any larger diameter in the base would be too much. Suprisingly it sticks out a little less than stock (which I like) but it's kind of heavy and wants to push the level into B-mode. That could be an issue. I think a nice slim plastic/acrylic/light one would be nice.

ETA: this knob attaches with the three set screws like the Momo ones dicussed above. It has a little plastic adapter for various size shafts...

 

Oh, the pictures of the orange stuff on the shaft, which looks like primer in some pictures is merely thread lock.

The knob can easily be removed by twisting counter-clockwise without any damage at all and can easily be screwed back on, with no ill effects at all.

So far the only 7mm shift knobs I've found have to do with 60's Volkswagens.

ZC1

 

You now own the 1st "Type-S" Prius.

... Brad

 

Oh my gosh, that was the exact knob I was looking at in the store and told someone here to buy. It has blue LED lights on the end. Now I gotta figure out how to power them. no...wait...it comes with a flat circular battery to power it up.
Hehe, look out Autozone..

ZC1

 

I saw a post mentioning 1/4-20 threads but that's a standard size, not metric.

It looks to be an M6 with 1.0 pitch threads on mine. If you buy one with set screws this won't matter.

 

Yeah...the blue lights arn't quite mycup of tea, but you just push the button on the knob and they light up. I suspose if you had blue LED interior floor lighting it could look pretty decent.

 

Now to find the badge for the back of the car to show my "special" status.

I took it out...it was about 95 or so here today...the thing gets super hot!

 

Any problem with B mode?

ZC1

 

The extra weight of the knob can force some accidental B mode activations. I bumped it twice reaching for the radio or something and it dropped straight down in to B mode. I didn't hit any large bumps, but I bet if you did I could see the same thing happening.

I think the best bet would be something light like the stock knob, with some personality like the Momo atomic (which is the I think I'll end up with once I do some reasearch on weight). I think if it's made of metal (short of maybe titanium) it will probably be a little to heavy.

If you took a car with the wet (word I can't spell) seat covers, you could find a pretty sweet knob to match. I think you could probably also get the knob covered in leather to match the seats (if you have leather seats) and that could look extremely nice...

ETA: I'm going to take it out, replace with stock and see what else out there looks good to me. It's nice to know it can work though. You may need to throw a couple round of teflon tape on the shaft using this model. The plastic spacer works OK, but it's a little loose. I think the teflon tape would add just enough to make it tighten up a bit with out damaging the threads.

 

I had purchased a MOMO gear shift knob for my last car, a Subaru Legacy, and it was similar to the Race Airleather (don't see the one I got) but it was extemely heavy, and I could certainly see the weight of it pulling it down into B drive.

I just checked another site and they were saying 3 pounds for the Air Leather knob.

It was probably because of my transmission, but I also had issues with the three screws loosening up every few weeks.