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Any way to add an amplifier to the stock stereo?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Audio and Electronics' started by Emblazon, Jul 8, 2008.

  1. Emblazon

    Emblazon New Member

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    2008, package #2. I want to upgrade the stock speakers, but don't want to change the stock stereo because I'm quite partial to the touch screen controls. Replacing just the speakers would improve the sound quality, but not the volume. I want quality and volume, so is there any connection on the stock stereo that will allow me to hook up an external amplifier? Or am I going to have to get a multi-channel amp and wire the speakers directly into the amp?

    Thanks for any and all assistance!
     
  2. zenMachine

    zenMachine Just another Onionhead

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    Start with the search function. There are many threads on this subject already.

    After some reading, if you still have questions, I'm sure many people here will be more than happy to answer specific details. Good luck.
     
  3. sweathog76

    sweathog76 Junior Member

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    Tons of threads on this and a search will be useful. However, in brief, the answer to your question depends on how you'll get an input audio signal into your amp. The stock radio doesn't have any RCA outputs (standard on all aftermarket radios) so you're limited to tapping/cutting your speaker output wires for your amp input source. However, most amps only take an input source via RCA jacks and you'll need a line output converter to be able to run RCA cables to your amp. If your amp only allows RCA input, you'll need a line output converter (e.g., Scosche SLC4 Four-channel line output converter at Crutchfield.com ). If you're amp allows speaker wire as your input source (not as common anymore), you can just run wire.

    I replaced the stock speakers, added an amp, a small sub, and kept the MFD and enjoy it greatly. It wasn't difficult and is a great improvement over the stock non-jbl stereo so you're efforts will pay off I feel. Good luck.
     
  4. abra

    abra Member

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  5. F8L

    F8L Protecting Habitat & AG Lands

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    There are many options that would solve your problem.

    If you want to do it the cheap way simply puchase a high level to low level converter for about $45.

    If you want the best sound quality and added options then purchase a OEM conversion system like the CleanSweep from JL Audio or the Kenwood KOS series modules. These allow you to upgrade to some of the really cool features of an aftermarket deck but maintain the stock stereo. :) With the added expansion slots you can now run your music from a USB flashdrive, and iPod or even play videos through your stock (if you have the Lockpick installed also). Here is an example from Kenwood.

    KOS-V1000
    Why drive around with yesterday's entertainment technologies? Kenwood's CarPortal KOS-V1000 is an advanced integration system that allows you to add the latest multimedia functions, such as high-speed iPod A/V control, navigation, SAT radio, and Bluetooth technology without tearing apart your exisiting factory system. Two relay control outputs are also included to allow control of garage doors, gates, trunk releases and more.

    • 2 USB Ports
    • AAC WMA MP3
    • iPod-Video Direct
    • 4 External Switch
    • Bluetooth H/F Ready
    • 3(GOLD) RCA PREOUTS 5V
    • 50WX4 MOFSET
    • CarPortal
    • Multi-Task Browser
    • 2AV-In 2AV-Out
    • RDS
     
  6. sweathog76

    sweathog76 Junior Member

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    Or, if you're going to drop this kind of money for the KOS-V1000 you could always add an in-dash dvd player with a flip-out monitor in the cubby below the stock radio. You'd gain many of the same features of the Cleansweep or KOS (e.g., rca pre-outs, mp3 player/ipod integration, decent power output, inputs for rear cam, usb, multiple output video formats, etc.) as well as save money on not needing a lockpick module. Many ship with HD radio receivers as well, if you're interested in that.

    Either way, there are numerous choices and ways you can go to achieve your goals. For me, I knew I wanted better sound than the stock stereo system as well as video capabilities. I couldn't in good conscience support costal tech given their hit-or-miss customer service practices so I went a different direction than the lockpick. (e.g., I had several questions and contacted their customer service via email and phone and never heard back). No thanks.

    Good luck and you're in the right place for info. I couldn't have upgraded without the help from the knowledgeable members and previous experiences/posts.
     
  7. Emblazon

    Emblazon New Member

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    Hello, weekend warriors! Thanks for all the info, guys. I've done head unit installs, and I've done sub/amp installs, but I've never done door speaker installs before, so it's got me a little skittish. I figure once I get in there and start playing with the wires I'll be good.

    Again, thanks for the help!
     
  8. abra

    abra Member

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    forgot to mention with door speakers.

    1.
    you need to drill out the pins that hold in the speakers
    2.
    you will need to cut some 1/2 to 3/4 mdf or wood to space out the speakers
    3.
    frist one takes the longest, use hot glue to set the plate against the door before drilling it on. then seal it off around plate to stop unwanted air and vibs.
    4.
    buy beer( all frist req beer)
     
  9. sweathog76

    sweathog76 Junior Member

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    Or, you can take the lazy way out and buy some brackets instead of MDF.
    Speaker Brackets 5-1/4" or 6-1/2" speaker adapter plates for select 1999-up Audi, Buick, Ford, Hyundai, Kia, Lexus, Mercedes, Scion, Subaru, and Toyota models at Crutchfield.com
    Some speaker sellers (e.g., crutchfield) will provide install equipment such as these brackets when you buy speakers, but I'd go the MDF route as you probably can chase down a 4x8 sheet for less than $20 depending on the thickness. Plus, crutchfield is fairly expensive to local or other retailers, in my experience. If you go the crutchfield route, you can usually chase down online coupons to offset their higher that average prices, from what I've read. Also, I guess it depends, in part, on if you have the correct tools to make the speaker brackets easily. Good luck.
     
  10. Emblazon

    Emblazon New Member

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    Alright, I'm pretty damn frustrated here--Sparky's guide for the rear door speakers is perfect for the rear doors, but extremely useless for the front doors.

    I've got my door panel off, and I'm looking at quarter inch grey foam on top of the plastic sheet that is covering up all wiring from the stereo and from the tweeter. Basically, I can remove the woofer, but since I can't see any of the other wiring (not to mention there are 4 wires coming out of the tweeter), I have no idea which wires to cut.

    Now that I look at the diagram, the wiring is going from the stereo to the tweeter and from the tweeter to the woofer. Is that correct? So which two on the tweeter are coming from the stereo?

    Thanks for your help, again, I just don't want to start cutting wires and hope for the best, and I don't want to put my Alpine Refs in the car without the crossover...:(

    EDIT: Alright, one door down. It took way too long, mostly because of a lack of proper connectors. I think the biggest issue I was having was that I wanted to use as much of the factory wiring as possible, and that just didn't happen in the end.

    The good news, though, is that these speakers came with a bracket, and the speaker itself has spaces in the frame that allow for the wires to be routed through the speaker frame instead of having to cut a hole in the door plastic. On top of that, the Alpine tweeters fit into the factory tweeter spot perfectly, so no alterations were needed on that end. I was able to place the crossover outside of the doorwell, too--putting it right next to the door light.

    So, at the moment, one quarter of my car sounds great, on to the driver's side tonight!