Removing Door Panel

Make sure to remove the door's 'pull handle' and it's screw. Plus, you have to pop the panel behind the 'open-handle' with a small flat blade or some thing (don't scratch) and then remove a small phillips screw. Then lift the door panel gingerly (don't scratch window tint) Once free you have to hold the panel up with one hand and disconnect wiring with the other. There is a light in each door that unplugs, plus the window/lock buttons. I might suggest that on the drivers door, you remove the whole switch assembly first by just popping it out. You can grab it's edges easily. Once out, you can easily disconnect the switches. Might want to do it on any door for that matter. Also see if you can disconnect the door's light from underneath before lifting the panel.

ONE BIG WARNING!!

The panel is in 2 parts (the 2 colors) and are joined by a very (IMO) weak joint. When pulling the upper pins out be careful not to pull so that the panel in your hand doesn't pull away from the piece hanging down. They appear to be connected with a pin that enters a hole and is then melted a bit to 'lock' it there. On both my front doors I have managed to separate the panels a small bit by breaking 1 or 2 connection points. When the door is closed the gap is pushed closed. With door open it's more noticeable, but as with anything I'm sure it'll progress. Good luck.

I assume from the your post you didn't install your spkrs etc. Do you know where the shop powered your system from? i.e. power supply?
Thx Jon

 

xravenx and others reading this thread,

Jon's instructions are right on, especially about easily busting the melted connection between the two colored pieces that make up the panel trim. Epoxy worked great for the repair :| To pop the clips in these areas, pull far enough out to see where the clip is, then use a flat bladed screwdriver to reach in there and use it as a cam to pry off the panel. Put something (cardboard, even) under the screwdriver so as to not scratch the paint.

Oh yeah, the two screws: Jon mentions the "pull handle". This is the one when you're sitting in the car and want to pull the door to close it. Look down in there and you can see the Phillip's headed screw. My guess is that you found this one.

Here's the other one: It's where the handle is that you use to "open" the door, as Jon mentions. Looking closely at the at this handle: There's the handle and the door lock button. At the back of the recessed area where you stick your fingers to grasp this handle, there's a small piece of plastic that lines the back of the recessed area. If you tap on it, you'll see that it moves. That's gotta go so as to get to the screw behind it holding the door panel.

Wrap up a flat bladed screwdriver with electrical tape and pry this handle bezel, as it's called. Pry against the door lock. I've attached a scan of this so you can see where the clips or claws are that hold it in place.

But, I'm curious how you were able to replace the speakers without removing this panel. Namely, how you were able to drill out the rivets holding the old speakers?

Lastly, note that the old speakers are not deeply recessed into the door. With your new install, make sure that your new speakers aren't deeply recessed either or the window will hit them when you hit the 'window down' button.

Have fun,
-bob

 

Jon, if you have a soldering iron, remove the panel, push the 2 halves together, and reweld that fitting. It works very well, as I broke the rear spotweld when checking speaker wiring, and a soldering iron had it stronger than stock within a few seconds (OK, a few minutes including soldering iron warmup time).