engine oil conundrum

You should take this up with the Stealership!......Then.....don't ever go back!

Get a set of manuals and do what you can by yourself. Find a trustworthy service dept. to handle the tech stuff!

 

Tom, this is all very painful to hear. But as you are an oil-changing kind of guy, do it again. Filter too. You can certainly pay to have the previous stuff analyzed, but I can't imagine how to prove that Toyota's local "staff" had done anything wrong where you cold make them pay.

But the longer view is to preserve and protect your engine. Would be great if I could recomend a local competent servicer there but I cannot. Hope that somebody else can. In any case, protect your car.
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DAS, 2001 Prius using synthetic oil for the last 30k miles

 

How does the oil look on the dipstick?

 

The dipstick color question is very good - you should be able to tell new oil on the dipstick easily.

Note though that the oil color is not necessarily the indication of oil quality. Seems like Mobil 1 in my Altima goes dark 1K or so miles after I put it in there and then it stays that way, I was reading about it somewhere but can't remember where...

On that aftermarket oil drain valve - which one did you get? Also - as I don't have the Prius yet (on order) - is it decreasing the ground clearance once installed? I know some cars have a problem with that...

 

And here I've been grumbling when a full 4.0 quarts has been added instead of the proper 3.9.

I feel so ashamed, and at the same time, so happy Amsoil doesn't use a 5-quart container...

 

Tom.. can you post a picture of the oil? I'm sure we would be able to tell for sure at that point. Sounds to me like you have some dirty oil in there. I know on my prius (I'm at 23k) the oil still looks pretty clean. For a few weeks after an oil change it will still look quite 'clear'. Even when it's time for the next oil change it doesn't look very dirty (compared to my older car).

I agree you should not use that dealer again. You could call the service manager and demand that he make the situation right. I find for the simple stuff, I often know more than the dealer does (and do a better job).

good luck,

Peter B

 

You can have your oil tested here.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/gas_engines.html

It is important to find out if they gave you a "wall job" (just park your car up against the wall and give it back to you in the afternoon with no service done to your car. Even if you never go back, some of us might like to know the truth so we can decide if we every want to go to that dealer.

Who knows, maybe just talking to them wil answer your questions about the oil. I would first read about the synthetic oil life study done by a local garage so you are familair with the subject (I know there is dino on your car, the basic rules may be the same).
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories...s/oil-life.html

 

I changed my oil today at 2000 miles. I wanted to change it closer to the 1000mile mark but time hasn't permitted. I have noticed since new that the oil level on the dip stick was above the full mark. Just for curiositys sake, I measured the oil I drained from the oil pan and the filter and came up with 3oz shy of 4qts.
I'm sure it had close to 4qts in it from the factory. I also examined the bottom of the drain pan and noticed very tiny specs of metal. Didn't really notice until I looked at it out in the sun. A magnet wouldn't pick up enough to really see. This I'm sure is typical and I really expected to find more than what I did.
Can you change oil yourself and still be within the warranty or does the dealer require that they do it?

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Floyd\";p=\"87616)</div>

I believe that the Prius oil capacity is actually 3.9 quarts per the manual so you might be OK.

As for doing your own changes, it was OK when I was in the business if you saved all your receipts (in case you had to prove it) so I would guess that its the same now.

I don't know about the particles, maybe you should install a magnetic oil drain olug until you figure out what the particles are.

 

Draining the oil NEVER drains 100% of the oil. So 10 minutes after you start the ICE with new oil you will have X% of old oil mixed in with the new. Take a new quart of oil and put a small amout of old oil in and you'll see it doesn't take much to turn the whole thing dark.
I always watch when oil is added at the "quick change" place and count the quarts as they go in.
I run Mobil One 0-40W (yes that's a zero).

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Floyd\";p=\"87616)</div>

Only ferrous metals can be attracted to a magnet. It was probably some aluminum. I've noticed this in most aluminum block/head cars, my 1992 Honda Prelude had it too and never seemed to have any problems.

Save all the receipts for oil and filter. Hopefully if something does arise, you can "prove" you at least changed the oil.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(200Volts\";p=\"87620)</div>

Some folks are so anal-compulsive they put the drain plug back on and pour in a quart of oil to "flush" the pan out, then take the plug out again. Unless you suspect there is a lot of crud in there, that seems a tad excessive.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(200Volts\";p=\"87620)</div>

Mobil 1 0W-40 is about the same price as the other Mobil 1 viscosity and is reported to be their finest offering. It's blended to meet the BMW "longlife" LL-01 specs for extended oil changes:

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS...obil1_0W-40.asp

Was there any difference in fuel economy running the 0W-40? Compared to a HD xW-40, the Mobil 1 0W-40 is considered a "light" 40 at operating temp.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(jayman\";p=\"87630)</div>

Only ferrous metals can be attracted to a magnet. It was probably some aluminum. I've noticed this in most aluminum block/head cars, my 1992 Honda Prelude had it too and never seemed to have any problems.

Save all the receipts for oil and filter. Hopefully if something does arise, you can "prove" you at least changed the oil.
[/b][/quote]

True about the ferrous material, there just isn't a "magnetic" or other material to easily catch non ferrous material in the pan.

It is possible to have debris like casting-sand in the sump of new cars in the old days, with today's high precision manufacturing, the rules are different so I just don't know if particles are normal. You could just ask Toyota and get an authoritative answer. You could also have your oil samples tested by a lab to see if there is something wrong going on. That would be some pretty powerfull evidence, lets hope you don't need it.

 

I ran Mobil 1 5W-30 for the first 20k miles and averaged about 51-52mpg. Then I switched to 0W-40 and get about the same results. I figure the 0W will be easier on the many start ups cycles that the engine sees, plus it wil help mileage somewhat( in theory).
I get my oil changed every 5k miles. I'd rather be safe then sorry. I've done this on my last 6 vehicles and have gone to 140k miles with no internal engine problems.

At 39k miles I did just have my best tank ever 55.0 mpg for 511 miles (acutal , not indicated).

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(200Volts\";p=\"87798)</div>

As far as viscosity, unless you ran the recently discontinued Mobil 1 0W-20, I doubt you'd notice any difference in fuel economy.

True enough about the cold starts. No matter what the ambient temperature, a 0W motor oil is always easier on starting and quicker on flow than a 5W.

Before I get flamed, remember that the SAE J300 specs are just recommended maximum viscosity at cold temp and recommended minimum viscosity at operating temp.

Considering that Mobil 1 0W-40 is approved against ACEA A3, B3, and B4-02 ("Severe service, severe extended oil change interval ...") I rather doubt anybody would experience a problem running it in their Prius.