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2 Week Battery Question

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by ggarman, May 1, 2005.

  1. DanMan32

    DanMan32 Senior Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(rick57\";p=\"87151)</div>
    Thanks Rick, guess I got your actual readings confused. Thought the classic was lower.
     
  2. ggarman

    ggarman Junior Member

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    Well, I did some more testing and found that both cars draw ~85mA resting. I used a different, better, DMM this time to get a much more precise reading.

    I did some troubleshooting on the blue car pulling fuses trying to find which circuit was drawing the most, the DOOR(30A) dropped the draw down 47mA when pulled.

    My guess is that it is the driver's window control switch unit that is the culprit.

    Rick, should these be drawing anything when not in use?

    Thanks,
    Greg
     
  3. Dr.Jay

    Dr.Jay New Member

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    When you say door, do you mean the power window circuit?
    Here is one theory. . .
    Could be rain that has ran down to window up/down switches causing high resistance circuit around switch.
    I have noticed when it is raining, and the window is open the slightest bit, that it comes in the window and runs down to the swiches on the (driver side) door arm rest.
     
  4. rick57

    rick57 Member

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    Sorry for the delay,been busy lately, :oops: .

    There shouldn't be any drain from the windows/door locks when at rest. The only way might be a Auto Window switch stuck,but have never seen one on a Prius. Any other fuses drop the load? Key out of ignition and trunk light out? Any aftermarket accesories? Radio/dome lights ok? Factory audio?

    As for the TSB you asked about, I have only installed it one Prius. An older gentleman was always leaving his sit for extended periods. This TSB had just came out within the previous few months and we suggested it to him. It is a little larger battery and brackets to make it fit. Still,I didn't like the fit and would not suggest it unless you absolutely want it. I would have the battery tested with the Midtronics Tester ( all Toyota dealers should have ) to make sure the battery is ok,100% state of charge. Then I would try to track down the source of the draw. If all is ok, you shouldn't have any problems. :wink:
     
  5. ggarman

    ggarman Junior Member

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    Rick,

    Thanks for the info!

    I didn't get a chance to fiddle with the car over the weekend, but to answer your question, the key was out and the trunk light was disconnected. I'll continue to try and flush out the culprit.

    When I was popping fuses I did notice a little strange behaviour when working with the DOOR and ECU-B fuses. Sometimes the ECU would be what caused the current to change and sometimes it would be the DOOR circuit. I could easily replicate the DOOR affecting the current, ECU was a little harder to get to happen. Plus, I had my 3 year-old running around playing and asking me all kinds of questions, so it was a little hard to concentrate while I was doing this. :) Hopefully, next time, I can do the testing during nap time, gotta love nap time! :)

    I think the other part of my problem is that both of my cars when I got them had the aux. battery cover somehow destroyed by someone pulling them open to jump the car. So, my guess is that I probably at least have very weak batteries because it appears they've been jumped.

    Do you think I will be able to press the dealership to replace the batteries for nothing, if they test bad on the Midtronic tester?

    Thanks,
    Greg
     
  6. ScubaX

    ScubaX Member

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    Where do you check the draw from the battery at and using what setting on the meter?
     
  7. ggarman

    ggarman Junior Member

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    I put the meter between ground and the ground lug on the battery and set the meter to the 200mA range.

    Thanks,
    Greg
     
  8. rick57

    rick57 Member

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    Do you mean you have the negative cable unhooked Greg? That is the way to check fro draw. Unhook the negative cable, hook one lead of your meter to the battery post and the other to the cable. That way the meter is in the line. I have not run into any problems with draw on the Prius except for a few that had aftermarket accessories installed. So if yours is all original that is unusual.
    As for the battery replacement, I wouldn't think they would warranty it, but I don't think they are to expensive. And I will try to get a minute and check the wiring diagram for what all is on those fuses.
     
  9. ggarman

    ggarman Junior Member

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    Rick,

    Yes, I have the meter 'between', in series, with the ground lug on the battery and ground cable. :)

    At the moment, the draw that I am seeing seems to be normal. Both cars behave the exact same way, once the system settles the meter flickers between 85-89mA.

    Last night I pulled the drivers window switch unit out of the blue car and disconnected it, the draw went down to 47mA. So I went and pulled the unit out of the Aqua car and put it in the blue car to see if the load changed. I got the exact same current draw, 85-89mA. So, either I have two bad switch units or they are operating the way they should.

    I'm going to open up one of the units and see if there is anything obvious inside that could add additional load.

    If you get a chance to test an 03' in the near future, could you let me know if you see the same kind of load I'm seeing. I would really appreciate it. :)

    I'm going to keep looking for where the other 47mA are going to see if that might be an easier fix, if what I'm seeing the switches is normal.

    If you have any common places I can look for other loads, please let me know.

    Thanks,
    Greg
     
  10. rick57

    rick57 Member

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    Greg,
    I believe the window switches are both ok. Chances of 2 bad ones is very high. Think we need to look else where. Also I have an 02' at work to do the battery recall tommorrow and will check the draw in the morning.
    As for the fuses, here goes;

    The 30A Door fuse goes to the Body ECU. From there, the ECU controls the Power Door Lock Control, Theft Deterrent and Wireless Door Lock Control systems.

    The 7.5A ECU-B fuse goes to the Body ECU, A/C Amplifier, EMPS relay ( then to the Body ECU ), Gateway ECU, and Transponder ECU ( for Immobilizer system ). The circuits affected are the A/C system, Combination Meter, Door Lock Control, EMPS ( steering system ), Gateway ECU, Headlight ( if it has Daytime Running ), Immobilizer System, Interior light, Key Reminder/Light Reminder, Light Auto Turn OFF, Power Window, Theft Deterrent, Wireless Door Lock Control.

    So you see there are many paths for the power to go. Looking over the circuits I found that ground ID is shared by all of them. It is located on the inside of the drivers hinge post. Maybe looking up from the floor,up under the dash you maybe able to see it. Other then that, I usually just follow the circuits, finding connectors,etc. , then start unplugging. Sometimes it takes a while to trace it down. I will double check the draw readings in the morning and post them for you.
     
  11. ggarman

    ggarman Junior Member

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    You Da Man!

    Thanks for all your help, it is nice to find someone in your profession that is willing to help, people like you are unfortunately few and far between, at least in my experience. :)

    I guess I should be thinking about getting those shop manuals a little sooner than later. I normally get them when I get a new car, but these babies are so expensive that I'm holding off as long as I can. :)

    BTW, is there a site where I can dload the electronic version of the manual? Subaru has a site where you can pay a subscription and get access to all the chapters/manuals.

    Thanks again,
    Greg
     
  12. Puzzler1

    Puzzler1 Junior Member

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    You can find the electronic version of the manuals at http://techinfo.toyota.com/
    This site requires a subscription but gives you all you should need including any recalls.


    Terry
     
  13. rick57

    rick57 Member

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    Right you are Terry. You can get access to all the Toyota info at techinfo site. It is a subscription to get in there tho. But worth it if you need info for do it yourself.

    As for the draw reading Greg, I checked the 02' I have here this morning. Upon hooking up the meter,it was high, then dropped to 75-81ma. I thought maybe I was wrong but leaving it on about a minute or two, it dropped again and was bouncing between 30-36ma. Are you leaving it on long enough? Maybe it will drop more if it had more time. Otherwise it is going to be a hunt to find the draw, :lol:
     
  14. ggarman

    ggarman Junior Member

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    Terry, thanks for the link!

    Rick, no I'm not leaving it on for much more than 30 seconds after the system appears to settle at the ~85mA. Thanks for checking the 02', I will test again soon.

    My wife took the car to get e-checked yesterday and they were unable to do it because there was no OBD code. I guess the system will record an 'all OK' code at some point. This was evidently caused be me fiddling with the battery. :) I hope it stores a code soon, my temps expire Saturday! :eek:

    Thanks again,
    Greg
     
  15. ggarman

    ggarman Junior Member

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    Well, I tested again and stayed connected for a couple minutes and it finally settled out at ~32mA, whew...

    I have a question about the site Terry mentioned, are you able to download the sections of the manual or can you only look at them online?

    Thanks,
    Greg
     
  16. rick57

    rick57 Member

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    I have not tried to download any but you should be able to save them. The pages are in PDF. I believe Evan and others here have downloaded from the site. And glad to here your electrical system is normal. Maybe you just have a weak battery. Have the dealer check it for you.
     
  17. ScubaX

    ScubaX Member

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    yes, you can save them. They are organized in small sections and it is a lot of downloading to get them all. But for 20 to 30 dollars and lots of hours spent you should be able to get them all.