I need the plug that goes into the amplifier and attaches to the speakers. Know where I can get that?
Ok guys, did a bit of research, and my 2008 prius has three connectors at the JBL amp. A 12-pin white, a 10-pin blue, and a 24-pin white. I tried Sonic Electronix and left an email message but haven't heard back yet. Anywhere else I should look? Also, any help with the wiring would be helpful
I want to bypass the JBL amp and install an aftermarket amp and speakers. Simply bypassing the JBL amp will not work because, among other things, it controls all balance/fader. It also sends audio Nav directions to the left front speaker. The factory radio outputs 2 channels only to the JBL amp. I will be adding an AudioControl LC8 channel summing device and a Pioneer amplifier. I want to do this without cutting the factory wiring harnesses. Sitting with a multimeter and checking continuity and voltage on the wires is simple enough. Accessing those wires without cutting the factory harness is something else. See the attached info on the LC8, specifically the upper diagram on page 8, and the 4 OEM system .
This reads like Deja Vu. I am doing the EXACT same thing myself and the diagram I had was for an 08 Amp unit! Did you notice that your amp has 3 connectors, an 08 amp has only 2. I went to Toyota TIS and downloaded the info for a 09 Prius, and it has the 3 connector amp!!! Here is the pin out!! Symbols (Terminal No.) Wiring Color Terminal Description ConditionSpecified Condition +B (S14-1) - GND (S29-6)SB - W-B Battery Always 10 to 14 V CTR+ (S29-4) - GND (S29-6) R - W-B Sound Signal (Center) Audio system playing A waveform synchronized with sounds is output RL+ (S14-3) - GND (S29-6) B - W-B Sound Signal (Left)Audio system is playing A waveform synchronized with sounds is output RR+ (S14-10) - GND (S29-6) R - W-B Sound signal (Right) Audio system is playing A waveform synchronized with sounds is output FL+ (S14-8) - GND (S29-6) P - W-B Sound signal (Left) Audio system is playing A waveform synchronized with sounds is output FR+ (S14-2) - GND (S29-6) LG - W-B Sound signal (Right) Audio system is playingA waveform synchronized with sounds is output WFL+ (S29-2) - GND (S29-6)P - W-B Sound signal (Left) Audio system is playing A waveform synchronized with sounds is output WFR+ (S29-9) - GND (S29-6) LG - W-B Sound signal (Right) Audio system is playing A waveform synchronized with sounds is output +B2 (S14-5) - GND (S29-6) SB - W-B Battery Always 10 to 14 V CTR- (S29-10) - GND (S29-6) W - W-B Sound signal (Center) Audio system is playing A waveform synchronized with sounds is output RL- (S14-9) - GND (S29-6) Y - W-B Sound signal (Left) Audio system is playing A waveform synchronized with sounds is output RR- (S14-4) - GND (S29-6) W - W-B Sound signal (Right) Audio system is playing A waveform synchronized with sounds is output GND2 (S29-7) - Body ground W-B - Body ground Ground Always Below 1 Ω GND (S29-6) - Body ground W-B - Body ground Ground Always Below 1 Ω SPD (S15-11) - GND (S29-6) V - W-B Speed signal from combination meter See "vehicle signal check mode" - FL- (S14-7) - GND (S29-6) V - W-B Sound signal (Left) Audio system is playing A waveform synchronized with sounds is output FR- (S14-6) - GND (S29-6) L - W-B Sound signal (Right) Audio system is playing A waveform synchronized with sounds is output WFL- (S29-1) - GND (S29-6) V - W-B Sound signal (Left) Audio system is playing A waveform synchronized with sounds is output WFR- (S29-3) - GND (S29-6) L - W-B Sound signal (Right) Audio system is playing A waveform synchronized with sounds is output MUTE (S15-1) - GND (S29-6) W - W-B Mute signal Audio system is playing Above 3.5 V Audio system is changing mode Below 1 V L- (S15-2) - GND (S29-6) B - W-B Sound signal (Left) Audio system is playing A waveform synchronized with sounds is output L+ (S15-3) - GND (S29-6) W - W-B Sound signal (Left) Audio system is playing A waveform synchronized with sounds is output R- (S15-4) - GND (S29-6) G - W-B Sound signal (Right) Audio system is playing A waveform synchronized with sounds is output R+ (S15-5) - GND (S29-6) R - W-B Sound signal (Right) Audio system is playing A waveform synchronized with sounds is output TX- (S15-7) - GND (S29-6) O - W-B AVC-LAN communication signal Power switch ON (IG) 2 to 3 V TX+ (S15-8) - GND (S29-6) P - W-B AVC-LAN communication signal Power switch ON (IG) 2 to 3 V ACC (S15-12) - GND (S29-6) GR - W-B Power switch ACC Power switch OFF Below 1 V Power switch ON (ACC) 10 to 14 V When I get hopme tonight I will upgrade this note, the connectors are labeled S-14 S-15, and S-29. I do not have the connector info on my computer here. If you want the PDF of the wiring schmatic, PM me and I will send it to you!! Hope this helps!
Sent the PM, but forgot to request the PDF. Please send. I'm including here some photos of the connectors and wires attached so you can see the wire colors.:rockon:
here are a few weblinks that helped me through w/ understanding the jbl system: Prius JBL Audio system response, specs, and photos http://www.tom-morrow-land.com/tests/priusaudio/JBL_AUDIO_SCHEMATIC.pdf 2007 Toyota Prius Car Radio Wiring Guide
If you have the JBL system, slide the passenger seat full forward and look see how many plugs the box under the seat has plugged into it. Thats the power amp assy for the Stereo If it is ONLY 2, the documents are relevant. If however, you, like myself and kurtjamesma have 3 connectors, its an '09 JBL package. I ran into this problem about a week ago when I started my Subwoofer project. I went to techinfo.com and downloaded the 2009 schematics, and lo and behold, we have 2009 JBL systems in our 2008 cars. Transition time came early fo some models I guess!.. If you want copies of the paperwork PM me and I wil drop them along!!
Thanks Ashe. I have printed printed the first two you listed, and visited the third. My wife owns a 2007 w/o NAV, w/JBL, so I was able to look at hers. KK6PD, another member, helped me with some additional schematics from 2009 Prius, which seem to match up to mine. I think he will send me a 2008 schematic tomorrow. In fact, the 2009 schematic that was sent to me includes a diagram of each connector and the corresponding pin number. This was somthing Tom Morrow's info didn't have. Additionally, Tom Morrow's car had only two connectors at the amp, and so I wanted to ensure I was looking at the same thing on my car. I am grateful for all this help because I'm trying to avoid cutting the factory harness. I went to one of my local Toyota dealerships and asked about wiring harnesses or pigtails, and was told they sell only the full car harness. My next step is to contact the dealership again and ask about the specific connectors involved and show them the from the diagram KK6PD sent me. Thanks again, and if you know anything else, I would appreciate it.
Ahh ok. You are trying something completely different than I thought. I never messed with the JBL system so I'm of no help to you. Sorry about that. Could you post up the final results with a small write up when you are finished? It may help others in the future.
Yeah, I've been taking pics as I go to document each step. What I'd like to do is create a document like Tom Morrow did and have it posted in the knowledge base and the file library so others can use this info. One thing I can share that is different with the 2008 Prius, is that in order to pull off the vent piece which is to the left of the radio, the panels above and below the steering wheel need to be removed because one of the clips for that vent is underneath the upper steering wheel panel. But, to remove the upper panel, the lower one must be removed first. I had planned to call several Toyota dealers (parts) to see if they have the connectors listed in the latest document I have. I've attached it.
Hey Kurt, which speakers did you decide to tap off of. The Front L + R, or the rear L + R??? The reason I ask, I have been looking at the print and it looks like if you use the front set to drive the Sub Woofer in, it already has the high end cut out. There is a separate out for the front tweeters. The rear L + R feeds are full frequency and then use a capacitor at the tweeter to cut the low audio freqs! I am planning to use the front feed myself since the amp already has a crossover built in and I won't even have to worry about a lot of "High End" getting to the subwoofer, where it is defiantly not needed!!! What are you doing, Waddya Tink?
What I plan to do is this: I have a total of 8 inputs and 8 outputs on the LC8, which will sum all of the amplified JBL channels to give me 4 full-range line level channels of : Front L & R, Rear L & R, and a SubWoof out Here's how I want it to work: Input 1: Front Left Tweet Input 2: Front Left Woof Input 3: Front Right Tweet Input 4: Front Right Woof Input 5: Center Input 6: Rear Left Input 7: Rear Right Once the LC8 does it's thing, I will have 8 full-range line-level signals to play with. At this stage of the process, my system is just like any other aftermarket head unit with pre-outs. My whole problem with the JBL system is that the amp filters the sound. Just give me full-range so I can choose how to listen to it. If you look at Tom Morrow's work, he describes how the amp filters out below about 70Hz and the tone controls are not at the correct frequencies to help the sound. I am simply going to replace my factory JBL speakers and amp with 2 pairs of Clarion SRP 1620M's (6.5" component speakers) and a Pioneer GM6400F amplifier (RMS 60w x 4, 95dB S/N). Nothing fancy, just something better than what I currently have. I got a good deal on the Clarion's from Crutchfield; and I've used Pioneer home and auto products since I was a teenager. I also put dynamat into the trunk, floorpan, firewall, and inner and outer door skins. I'm currently trying to decide if I want to mount the LC8 and amp in the storage tray or mount each on one side of the rear cargo area so I don't give up storage or create a prblem if I need to change a tire. If I go with the storage tray, I could use quick-disconnects. If I were to mount the amp and LC8 on the inside of the car, I could add a sub later on and build a custom enclosure in place of the storage tray.
I would use the rear speakers because they are full-range and let your sub amp set the crossover frequency.
by mounting the lc8 & amp in the storage tray you won't have to worry about access to your tools & spare tire. if you look at my setup i have full access to all of those items. granted i can't completely remove my storage tray now, i can still lift it to get to the spare. my flashboard, which covers up all the process & amp wiring is also completely removable, so i can access tools. if you are worried about access to spare tire, building a custom enclosure in place of storage tray could make it more difficult to get to the tire. that was my first option when i was designing the system. i dumped the idea when i realized the box design i would need & the work required.
Well all the work paid off. I went with a "BOSS 800" for the car. I did not want to really see it, just hear it. So I made Aluminum mounting blocks, and Grill Cloth covers for it, and here is the result, This gives you access to all the controls, and wiring. The Amp itself is bolted down to the cove over the HV battery! It fits PERFECT in this location. Put the covers back on the Sub, drop the mat back in and it is about as subtle as I can see!!! It sounds pretty damn good!!! spent about 5 or 6 Pink Floyd songs setting it up...Holy cow my rear view mirror now vibrates and distorts the image!!!!!SWEET!!! It fills in the bottom end that I thought was always missing!!!