Pink stuff leaking from engine

Water Pump

 

Water pump.

 

Hi Mike,

+2. You need to check the coolant level in the translucent tank behind the radiator. You also need to remove the black plastic cover over the radiator and remove the radiator cap. The fluid should be at the top of the radiator neck. Replenish the Toyota Super Long Life Coolant in both places as needed.

If you find that the leak is substantial I do not suggest driving the car on a long trip especially if ambient temps are high. Good luck.

 

Hey, I got the same problem, too. I will be changing it myself this weekend. Maybe I will find time to write this one up. I will let everyone know, if I find the time. Is it true it cost around $400 to replace at the stealership? I thought I read a thread about someone who went to the stealership. They must be from SoCal.

 

I think *most* of these engines have this symptom. My car's
had the "thin pink line" its entire life, with a little bit of
pink crust around the edge of the water pump pulley, and I've
topped up by a small cupful of coolant maybe twice over the four+
years I've had this. The water pump bearing seals simply weep
a teeny tiny bit of fluid, that's all. It just looks like much
more when it gets flung all over the place by the spinning pulley.
.
If the line isn't actually *wet* with coolant after driving,
I wouldn't worry about it. Wipe it down with a damp rag if you
want to track how quickly it reappears.
.
_H*

 

Take a look at the belt-driven pulley and see if it looks like this:


Note the pink inside it. If it looks like this you need a new water pump.

 

OT:

I found a puddle in the corner of my garage today, and it took me a while to figure out where it was coming from - I had a gallon of SLLC sitting on a benchtop and it spontaneously developed a crack at the bottom of the container. I lost over half a gallon on the ground before I realized where it was coming from and poured the remainder into another jug. $20 per gallon at the dealer. Doh!

 

It depends on how well the gasket/RTV is sealing the pump. The factory seal is superior to one done during replacement. But if the pump weeps from the weep holes, that means the bearing seals have failed and the bearing is about to go south.

From the looks of the pic, the water pump looks like a decent job if you're mechanically inclined. A 14 or 17mm wrench or socket undoes the tensioner pulley bolt, and I would imagine the pump bolts could be a PITA to get to but nothing a good ratchet can handle.

 

Hey everyone,

I just replaced my water pump. Here are some pointers:
1. No RTV is needed. The gasket is a thin metal sheet, and it can only go in one way.
2. You will probably lose about 1 gallon of pink stuff if you remove it on a leveled surface. That's all I needed, and I have been monitoring my work for the last 2 weeks.
3. It should take you about 2 hours or less if your mechanically inclined. Anyone looking for a mechanic. I am from SoCal. I wouldn't charge you $400 like the stealership...LOL.