Hv Battery

Toyota SPECIFICALLY designed the Prius to NOT be "plugged in". I don't think that you can directly charge the HV battery without extensive modification.

That said - the Prius IS designed so that it can be jump started if need be. The procedure IS in the manual. If you don't have your manual, post back here and I'll look it up for you.

Yoda

 

is the MIL on if so some one might have pulled the power plug on the HV battery. When it goes into neutral on the MFD on the energy screen how many bars are idicated on the battery?

 

"Local Toyota dealers are really giving me a rough time and it is getting very expensive"

Oh boy... I'd love to hear the rest of this story!

I mean, it's missing so many juicy details. Elmore Leonard could have written it! Did he get in a wreck or buy a wreck? Self repaired or dealer repaired? Why can't a dealer guarantee a fix?

No offense, but most of us use a little trick called, "automobile insurance" to deal with issues like this.

 

by the sounds of it they haven't charged the battery. If it was fully charged it'd be green and probaby near the top. The battery square and the car with the exclamation mark is a HV problem. You should have asked them for all the codes when they had the THHT connected.

 

Charging the HV battery is very difficult and only a handful of dedicated Toyota chargers exist (ie maybe only 2 or 3 Toyota dealers in the country will have one - more likely it will have to be flown over from Japan).

Given the pink bar, however, I wouldn't rule out the possibility of another fault somewhere else. Could be as simple as a sensor somewhere disconnected or similar. You said the engine did start but ran roughly, that suggests to me that the HV battery had enough to start it, but something else (non-HV related) made it run rough and then shut it down. An emissions sensor or something? :?

 

it's also a possibility that there is a problem in the fuel pump cutoff circuit. This activates in an accident to prevent a fuel fed fire.

 

Does AC compressor run? It doesn't need ICE, but uses the HV battery.

It could be the service plug with the fuse was not installed back into the battery. The HV Battery ECU could still detect the voltage across each segment block. But then, it wouldn't have been able to start ICE.
If plug is in place, then have the battery charged. Display should show blue or green. Keep an eye on it as you try to run the car, or even just run the AC. If it is not a hot day and the compressor is not running fast (you can certainly tell, it is a bit loud), and the SOC drops quickly (less than a minute), you have a bad battery.
DTCs would help the diagnosis. The battery ECU can detect problems with individual battery blocks.

 

In a wreck, then fixed. Are you saying you bought the car as salvage to try and refurbish it, or you were in the accident? If you owned it during the accident, how come insurance is not involved?

 

Some Tips:
1) Go back to the dealer with the HV battery charger and determine if the battery will accept the charge; make sure there is not a connector problem; assuming the MFD is working, a fully charged battery will be all green; no green-no charge-bad battery. Junkyard price abt $800.00.
2) This is general guidance since I haven't done it. Measure voltage(V) at HV battery; measure battery at inverter; should be the same; have some one try to start car, if nothing happens, measure V going to motor/generator that starts the engine. This may be 500V. Don't kill yourself. You may need shop manual and may have to remove cover of inverter to gain access to the correct connector. If green light is on in power button and no V out of inverter-bad inverter. Get it fixed or buy replacement from junkyard. BE CAREFUL OF HIGH VOLTAGE
3) If you buy these big ticket items and it still doesn't start, pay someone to burn or steal it.

 

It would be difficult to measure voltage at the motors, as they are 3 phase synchronous AC motors.
The inverter and HV ECU does extensive monitoring and would cough up DTCs if there are problems with the inverter and possibly even the motor.

 

Dan you just measure the voltage across the three legs.

 

The system has to be spitting codes out like crazy. Why hasn't the dealer that is working on it pulled the codes to see what the car is complaining about?

If the dealer you are working with is clueless find another and get your car towed there. I'm highly inclined to believe that there is an incompetent factor someplace in the repair chain of events.

Everyone in the post who has said, if you see any bars on the MFD, the battery has voltage and should be just fine. This doesn't sound like a battery issue to me, it sounds like a sensor or other engine compartment issue.

 

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If the car sits for a few months, the HV battery will be too low to start the car. 125 V sure sounds low. I think you need to try to get a dealer to condition the battery for you. (Of course, it's just a guess.)

 

125 is WAY too low. If you can somehow inject 206V or so DC into there, maybe you can get ICE going to charge the battery, assuming the HV electrical is sound.

Perhaps 17 lantern or gel cell batteries?

It would help if you could get a hold of a THHT at least for a while. I understand they run about 4 grand with the programming.

Where are you at? Maybe someone near you could help out. I'd love a challenge like this. I have a few ideas to try and revive the battery pack, either as a whole or one block at a time. After all, the battery ECU has to have access to both terminals of each block in order to monitor its voltage.