Autostart available?

[font=Comic Sans MS:bf294e648c]The Prius puts its hot coolant in a "thermos" to help warm the car when you start it. I've seen block heaters from a poster in Finland. Better to just get in the car and go instead of inefficiently burning gas to warm the car. The heat/cool system is very fast to moderate the cabin temperature.

And how would Autostart work with the SKS?[/font:bf294e648c]

 

I asked the exact question to my salesman who checked and told me no luck. Our past 3 cars had auto start, and we loved it.

 

A better approach is a decent block heater turned on 2 hours before you are going to use the car.

 

Its available in Japan, but I hard its pricy.
Also I don't know how it works :roll:

 

Just put the block heater on a timer.

 

I think I figured out how to hook up the system from the Avalon. (Including the SKS system).

The only problem is activating the remote start; You would have to drill down through the menu on the scan tool to the Avalon menu and see if the Prius would take the command.

The auto start system is actually quite simple with SKS. There is a built in SKS transponder in the remote start system. It's just a matter of powering the remote module and simulating the button press. Very few wires are required for hookup.

Anyway, this would be an experiment, and would require assistance from the dealer, since they are they only ones with key-capable scan tools.

Nate

 

Guffman, the Avalon kit would require custom wiring on the Prius. (It won't plug and play).

That is, if it works at all. Let us know if you get this working!

Nate

 

oh what a asurprise...japan has something that we dont... now that hardly ever happens...

 

I've the "alarm gold" for the Prius from an installer friend, just in case anyone want to know.

He's suggested pulling the battery out of the smart-key fob, installing the fob into the car under the dash somewhere and powering it using a power source that is triggerable (new word?) by the remote start. Thus, the hidden smart key would be recognized only if remote started.

Any feedback is most welcome. What kind of power source to simulate the removed fob battery is my question...

Also, he said he installed seat heaters and used a nice big 12 V ACC wire in each of the kick panels to power them. Anyone know what they are/fused at?

 

The "modified smart key" is essentially what the Avalon system does. There is a smart key transponder embedded in the remote start module. It's the same concept, only refined for the Toyota. (Interlocks, protections, etc).

Nate

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(finman\";p=\"97017)</div>

You're not providing us with anything to go on to answer your question. Where did he tap 12V?
The main ACC is fused at 7.5A, as is Ig-On (Ig1). The ACC for the console outlet is fused at 15A. The dash outet is fused at 15A through a constant source, but switched using a relay, whose coil is controlled by the console outlet power. The coastal mod bypasses the relay contacts.

 

He tapped 12 V in each of the kick panels. He put a multi meter on a 'larger' wire (sorry, did not say what color), pressed the power button to see if it showed 12 V. I was just wondering if anyone else has found these wires and used them for anything, instead of going up the dash to the power button, taking apart more panels, etc.

Didn't know the 2 power outlets were inter-related.

Curious about the Avalon 'modified' smart key remote start...a dealer installed Toyota part that we can buy at the parts counter?

And why wouldn't smart-key even be an option on the $42,000 Highlander Hybrid? (Saw one at my dealer this week, pre-sold to someone out of town) Not even offered! That's a HUGE omission on such an expensive vehicle, IMHO.

 

I still don't understand why you would want it, and I'm a Minnesotan!
The Prius is designed to be driven upon starting, (as are most modern cars). However, the Prius even has an electric heater to provide a modest amount of heat even when cold. I agree with the previous post, that you should put a block heater on a timer. You could also just dress a little warmer rather than wasting gas to avoid a little discomfort.

Oooh! I know... get a small electric heater (for home use) and put it inside the car, and on a timer set to go on 30 minutes before you leave. You're car will be nice and toasty withouth wasting gas or investing in jerry-rigged modifications.

 

There were posts on this last winter that should be archived however I don't recall there being much technical info in them. WHY would we want this? Well, in Maine and all around the Northeast it is wonderful to be able to start the car and allow it to warm up and start to melt the snow and ice that coat the windows rather than having to use a pick axe to remove it 8) Prior to my purchase I inquired of the dealer and they said "of course you can have that installed (and even called their company of choice for verification)...when I took delivery the story was - no way - can't be done :cussing: I asked at our local installer when I was purchasing one for my husband this winter...they said they hadn't tried it, and didn't want to be the guinea pigs...but there must be a way to install one. So....if anyone figures out a simple way to accomplish this - I'll be thrilled!!

 

I understand. I lived in Michigan for 20 years. Coming out in the morning, to a car covered with 18 inches of snow on top of 1/4 inch of ice. No amount of cold scraping will get the windshield clear. It MUST be melted off. Even if you do manage to scrape off enough to see out, your own breath causes ice to build up on the INSIDE of the windows.

You can't even begin to scrape the ice until the front and rear defrosters melt the bottom of the ice sheet enough to begin the scraping process.

Basically, you have to bundle up with your coat, boots, hat, gloves, and sometimes even snowpants to go out and start the car. Then, go back in, eat some breakfast or whatever, then bundle back up, go back out, and start the scraping process while cursing mother nature.

A remote start comes in awfully handy. The only reason I never got remote start on my cars was because I always drove stick shifts.

Also, sunny and warm Colorado sure beats Michigan. (Been here since 2000).

Nate

 

If that wire is only live when in ACC, then it is probably only 7.5A unless it is the one routing to the console. Most of the Ig-On (Ig1) 12V are also fused at 7.5A for all. Reason behind this:
Most of the accessories get their main power from a constant 12V source at a higher current rating, but get turned on by a separate switched 12V source requiring only as much current as needed to turn on, much like today's amps and head units.

 

We found that autostart not only came in so handy on frozen mornings, but at night in a busy lot. We'd push the autostart button, look around, and find our car immediately by the lights flashing and the engine noise. It was a comforting, security device in addition to warming the car.