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HID Head Lights Problem, Please Help!!

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by kdr008, May 27, 2005.

  1. kdr008

    kdr008 New Member

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    PLEASE HELP!!

    I have a 04 Prius with HID head light (package #6, 05's package #6)... recently, after 50+k miles driving, my car's head lights stared to aim randomly between normal to very very low to the ground (mostly staying low), I have an extremely difficult time seeing the road ahead of me and even with high beam on, the lighting of my car can barely reach what use to be the low beam patter.

    I found out the HID head lights are controlled by a computer which is getting data feeds from at least 2 different areas, one is on the rear-end, a load sensor.. another area is the speed data from the car... the head lights will lower the aim by a few degrees (I think it's within 4 degrees) if the load sensor indicate an increased load of the car; as the car travels faster at highway speed, the head lights aim will be a few degrees higher.

    here where my nightmare starts :x ...

    I took my car to a dealer in Alexandria, VA, after telling the service advisor my problem and waited for 3 hours, I was told there were error codes in the ECU and the tech reset it already, they can not find anything wrong with the car. Needless to say, my problem with the head lights was not fixed. When I went over the next day, I had to spent almost 2 hours trying to get someone to listen to me and I actually had to get into a shouting match with a service advisor who kept on telling me there is no problem with my head lights... After I demanded another Prius with HID light system to be used as a comparison, we soon discovered at about 10 feet away from the wall, the concentration of the low beam pattern between 2 cars was at least 10-12 inches apart. With no argument about my "problem" anymore, I was told to setup an appointment to bring the car in.... when I call later to do so, I was told the Prius specialist from the dealer will perform a manual adjustment and that should take care of the problem.... after I explained to the advisor, this problem with the head light aim is very random and from what I know, the "manual" adjustment could only make things worse.... I was told basically to be on my own since I know so much about the problem.

    ... after that incident, I went to another Toyota dealer in Hagerstown, MD.. this time around, the service advisor was very nice and they did try to help me fix the "problem", however, after many trys, they told me my lights are working just fine and they've done all they can at this point, and there just doesn't seems to be any problem... so after leaving my car at the dealer for 2 days, I drove it home and drove it at night, ... well.. nothing was fixed at all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    .. all the while since May 3, 05, when I first encountered this problem, I stayed in touch with Prius specialist advisor from Toyota NA head quarter, Lilian, a very nice lady who is trying to help me resolving the problem. But, now I can barely get her to return a phone call to me :(

    MUST I FIX this problem myself?? This seemingly simple problem had caused my over $400 dollars already and all the dealer can do was resetting ECU???? and "manual" adjustment? Why won't they look at the computer controlling the light? Toyota's TIS is that incompetent? or must I go to yet another dealership??


    Anyone out there with the same problem??? :( PLEASE HELP!!!!

    Rick
    [email protected]
     
  2. galaxee

    galaxee mostly benevolent

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    Not sure if this will help... but this is what my husband, a Toyota tech, recommends.

    First check to see if the whole headlight assembly will move if you push it under medium pressure.
    If it's nice and tight, have a few people bounce the car's suspension from the front and try to shake it side to side. You stand in front of the car and watch the cone in front of the lightbulb (the diffuser plate) for any movement. No movement is good. If you're still not sure, open the hood and tap on the back of the ballast pack behind the bulb (on the back of the headlight assembly), but not hard. Still should be no movement or rattling sound.

    If all else fails, remove the headlight assembly (be careful, don't crack mounting brackets) and gently shake it. There should be no movement or rattling sounds. While it's out, check the adjustment screws for vertical and horizontal to check for slipping.

    If there is movement, your mounting screws for the diffuser need to be tightened.

    Hope that is of some help. Let us know how it turns out.
     
  3. Sufferin' Prius Envy

    Sufferin' Prius Envy Platinum Member

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    Please put your location in your Profile . . . it helps people to answer questions if we know where you are located.

    IF you live in Virginia it looks like the Lemon Law covers you for 18 months.

    "Serious safety defect" means a life-threatening malfunction or nonconformity that impedes the consumer's ability to control or operate the new motor vehicle for ordinary use or reasonable intended purposes or creates a risk of fire or explosion."
    http://www.carlemon.com/lemons.html
    http://www.carlemon.com/lemon/VA_law.html

    Just the mention of the words “Lemon Law†may send a shot of adrenalin into Lilian and cause her to pick up the phone and call you back.

    Start asking for stuff in writing . . . email, fax, etc.

    Me personally, no matter how well intentioned the suggestion, I would not do the maintenance/repairs as referred to by galaxee while under warranty and/or Lemon Law coverage. If you do so, Toyota can turn around and say that YOU broke it!

    Let us know what happens.

    [P.S. I ain't not no lawyer type :? )
     
  4. kdr008

    kdr008 New Member

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    Thanks for the tips and your reply :)

    The entire head lights assembly is tight! Luckily my car was never in an accident before..

    I fail to mention, when the head lights are aiming low or when it occasionally moving back to the normal aim, both lights are moving together at same time... and the vehicle's load is the same...

    The only variables seems to affect the lights' aim are terran, speed or g-force.... although I haven't found a positive a correlation to any of the condition mentioned above

    The rear load sensor's connector was also inspected for corrosion and none was found......

    I suppose I could do the following.... spend money on replacing the load sensor, than the linkage to the head lights' ECU and finally if that doesn't do the trick, than replace the ECU itself, however it I did all those, I'd be out pocket thousands of dollars!! too bad I won't have the proper instrument and instruction to calibrate the ECU once any of the above mentioned parts are replaced, otherwise I would have done it myself by now! :(
     
  5. galaxee

    galaxee mostly benevolent

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    That wasn't a "self maintenance" procedure. It was a quick check to see if the diffuser plate was loose so you could tell the dealer what's going on. Really, completely non invasive unless you chose to remove the whole assembly to check for diffuser plate movement.

    Anyway, kdr, I hope you find the problem. Let us know so we can be alert for that type of thing ourselves.
     
  6. DanMan32

    DanMan32 Senior Member

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    First off, the headlight auto-leveler does not send out DTC codes, though it does tell the combination meter to flag the headlight leveler malfunction indicator.

    There are specific speedconditions where the auto leveler is inhibited, that's why the vehicle speed is sensed.

    The leveler only operates at constant speed between 19 and 112 MPH, or while stopping at less than 0.4 MPH according to page 5-1667 of repair manual. It stops controlling when accelerating. I believe the beam is supposed to be perfectly straight on at low beam, maybe Kyle can clarify this.

    I would agree, if the headlights are moving strictly up and down (not side-side) in tandem, it does sound like the leveler system is not working.

    There is a proceedure to reset the leveler. On the DLC, if you ground pin 8 while in Ig-On, then flash the headlights about 5 times once a second, the leveler warning light should light, then shut off.
    Be sure the car is level and you have 3 gallons of gas and nothing else in the car.

    It is also possible the ECU or the 'load sensor' could be bad. A few posts have reported the leveler warning lamp coming on.
     
  7. matrixmarc

    matrixmarc New Member

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    Regarding the headlight leveling issue:

    I have a new 2005 Prius and the system registered a problem after putting a light load in the rear. I went to the dealer and was told that they couldn't find a problem. I suggested we all get on the back of the car and watch the headlights not function properly, which we did. It became evident that they were not moving at all.

    So the short story is, they spent a day with the car, gave me a loaner and ended up calling Toyota international. TI said that when there is a problem like this, it is usually the computer, so they are going to replace it.

    Now the interesting thing I discovered is that the headlights can be adjusted in place and the computer can be completely disconnected. (No warning messages or exclamation mark) So the headlights beam out at a reasonable distance making night driving possible, taking care to keep the brights off when mounting hills etc.

    When the warranty is up, I won't replace the system if it fails again. I'll have it disconnected and perhaps use slightly weaker headlamps.

    Good luck with the problem. M
     
  8. DanMan32

    DanMan32 Senior Member

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    That might not be legal. HIDs are supposed to level as they are very bright and can easily blind other drivers. Put a decent load on your car, and the lights start shooting up into people's eyes, even though you have the beams on 'low'. With HID, by low it means beam cut off and slightly down. There's only one intensity with HID. Don't know where you'll find weaker HID lamps.
     
  9. Areometer

    Areometer Silver Business Sponsor

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    Weaker HID = dimmer HID, right? Then anything higher than OE's 4100K color temperature will output less than OE.

    35w 4100K HID capsule outputs 3000lm typically. 35w 8000K HID capsule outputs 2000lm typically - with all things being equal.

    There is this newer 21w HID capsule & ballast now. But probably not plug-n-playable onto OE systems.
     
  10. priusham

    priusham New Member

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    I think my car has this same issue at 10,000 miles. The low beams point about 10 feet in front of the car.

    At the next oil change, I was going to ask the dealer about it.
     
  11. kdr008

    kdr008 New Member

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    Thanks DanMan32 for your post,

    Your post just might saved me hundreds of dollars on all those "flat fees" the dealer will charge me for doing nothing!!

    I shall direct your post to a tech and work with him to see if the problem is resolved.. Thanks again for your insight...

    btw, I've taken my car to 4 dealers already. Although, only two worked on it so far, the rest of them just wish to stay away from my car :((((( talk about incompetency!


    Rick,
     
  12. kdr008

    kdr008 New Member

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    Hi Areometer!

    an off topic question... since you are into the brighness of the light :) do you know where we can get the bulb for the little round driving light that produces light at about the same color as our HID head light?


    Rick,


    quote="Areometer";p="94744"]Weaker HID = dimmer HID, right? Then anything higher than OE's 4100K color temperature will output less than OE.

    35w 4100K HID capsule outputs 3000lm typically. 35w 8000K HID capsule outputs 2000lm typically - with all things being equal.

    There is this newer 21w HID capsule & ballast now. But probably not plug-n-playable onto OE systems.[/quote]
     
  13. Areometer

    Areometer Silver Business Sponsor

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    Hi Rick,

    If I understand you correctly, you want brighter fog lamps and a closer coloration to match your HID output, am I right? You can use IPF’s 9006 HIR bulb. It genuinely outputs 2x that of regular halogen & it comes in 3800K (plug-n-play too). Your HID capsule comes in 4100K, so I hope this is close enough color matching for you. If you want even more output from your fogs, you can probably use the Hyper Beam System to boost it to 2x brighter. I am not 100% sure if the HIR bulb can take this extra boost as the HBS is originally designed to boost regular halogen bulbs, not HIR bulbs. But they may work well. Next step will be to turn your fogs into true HID but it requires customization.

    I just PM’d you too.

    Edward
     
  14. Wino

    Wino New Member

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    Priusham

    my 2005 with 15000 miles on it has the same issue. What I found out tonight is that when it is doing it (pointing strait down), if I turn the lights off and then back on I will see them move up to normal position and then all seams well. Hopefully that will fix it next time it happens as well.

    Cheers
    Wino
     
  15. priusham

    priusham New Member

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    That's one of the first things I tried... "cycling" the lights on and off.

    Sadly, in my case there is no diff.

    I also started and stopped the car... next, I'll kick them and see if that helps things.

    Mechanical things
    They have no heart
    When the going gets tough
    They fall apart
     
  16. Bill Merchant

    Bill Merchant absit invidia

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    [font=Comic Sans MS:7540c5b722]You could try bouncing on the rear bumper. If the level lever sensor is sticky, this might help. Has the dealer replaced the level sensor?[/font:7540c5b722]
     
  17. KTPhil

    KTPhil Active Member

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    Three times for the same safety-related problem? "New car time" under most states' lemon laws.

    Tell them you want a brand new car. Then see how hard they try to fix it.
     
  18. kdr008

    kdr008 New Member

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    Just to update the group....

    Following DanMan32's post, I am still trying to get a Toyota Dealer to take my car in for a checkup. It's more than a week now, and I haven't got a call from the last dealer I went to. I hope someone will eventually call me back.

    ..... to reply to Bill Merchant, the rear load sensor was not replaced, however, the connector was checked for it was found to be in good condition.. we know the sensor is working because when there is a load at the rear, the beam level will be lowered..

    ..... to reply to KTPhil, although I had the car less than a year, I did have more than 50k miles on it, besides, one of my biggest problem is that no dealerships I went to are willing to say there IS a problem with the light.. although, the condition of the light's behavior can be easily observed, I still have to put up with the ignorant reply when I talk to the service write-up people.. bottom line is, even if I am willing to pay for the repair, the dealers do not know how to repair it!!

    ========================

    something else I've discovered with my head lights' problem, I found when I first power up the car with the light switched off, as soon as I turn the lights on, the level either goes up or goes down. ( no movement of the car, only me sitting in it). I can switch the lights on and off three four times in a row and almost every time the level of the beam pattern will be different.. After 3-4 times, the light will stay at about the same height without anymore movement until I power off the car and power it back on again... then, the same behavior of the light can be observed again!


    Rick,
     
  19. Bill Merchant

    Bill Merchant absit invidia

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    [font=Comic Sans MS:33a856a326]Thanks for the update, Rick. I'm sorry you are having such problems with the car and the dealers. It may be time to get the district service manager, or even Toyota USA, involved. Misaimed headlights are a definite safety issue. Tell the service manager you're going to report the problem to NHTSA, and do if they brush you off. If you have to drive at night you are endangering your own life if you can't properly see the road, and potentially blinding other drivers, causing them to lose control of their car.

    I'm going to guess that the problem is the sensor or the ECU that controls the leveling. Just because adding weight to the back lowers the beam doesn't mean the sensor is good, just relatively good. The relative change in the angle of the car causes a relative lowering of the beam. But the absolute angle isn't detected.

    Good luck getting this fixed and please keep us posted. [/font:33a856a326]
     
  20. DanMan32

    DanMan32 Senior Member

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    If turning the headlights off and on tends to cause the headlights to shift level, I bet the problem is the headlight servo, probably the sensor in it that determines where the beam is aimed. It may have too much hysteresis.