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01 prius p3006 and 3000. also I think it was a799

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by scotman27, Aug 8, 2013.

  1. scotman27

    scotman27 Active Member

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    Hello guys,
    I got an 01 prius with 164k on it. I love it, I got it a year ago. Just today I was sitting at a light and the engine came on and the soc went from 60 to 34 immediately. Then came up.and all was well then at 58 soc the lights came on, I checked all voltages, they are good. Car is runing fine at 50.7 mpg. What could this be. A bad wire.
    Thank you,
    Scott
     
  2. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    It may be the mysterious 'balancing charge.' I've never seen it myself but your description sounds similar.

    Bob Wilson
     
  3. scotman27

    scotman27 Active Member

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    I will give you a little bit of history since I bought the car. I bought the car last August. in September I tore apart the hybrid battery. and I cleaned all the terminals and the bus bars. I put terminal protector on the terminals and bus bars and reassembled the battery. since then I have done my regular maintenance oil changes, waxes.
    last week the car did the same thing. I was sitting at a light after leaving work and the battery soc went down to 34. then back up to 98% then bled it all down to 61. gave the code P 3006 and p3000. last Wednesday I tore the hybrid battery part everything looks good. I had one sensing wire that was broken so I re soldered it together I checked all my modules and the highest with 7.83v. the rest were 7.63. only one of them was 7.53 so I drained the one cell and recharged it and balanced it. since then everything has been wonderful. until today after 10 minutes of driving it I sat at a light, the engine kick on and my soc was at 34 percent. no lights came on until my state of charge was at 58 percent. I drove my car the rest of the 20 minutes to work and the state of charge only stayed around 60 and that was it, it did not climb 90 like last time.
     
  4. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    I think your going to need a recording OBD scanner to track the module-pair voltages. Sounds like one pair might be triggering the problem.

    Bob Wilson
     
  5. scotman27

    scotman27 Active Member

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    I am thinking it is blocks 6 because that is the one that had the cell that was at 7.53 volts
     
  6. scotman27

    scotman27 Active Member

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    Ok, here is an update on this car.

    it is doing this about once a day(actually it was great yesterday). i am gettting 49.7 mpg current. I do not think i got a bad HV battery. especially after today. the car was hovering about 60 Soc this morning to work. and then back home. i got into my development. and it went into ev mode for about 1/2 a block because i was coasting( i actually had this thing in ev mode for a good 3/4 mile on a flat stretch a couple miles from my home with no issues.) i used the brakes for a stop sign and just as i came off the gas to go to the brakes the engine came on and i looked down at my scangauge. the soc went from 60soc right to 34.7 then built back up. it is currently at 47.6 in front of my house. what is going on here. all my voltages are fine. temps are good. at all times my voltages never go past 0.05v from lowest block to highest block. no codes at all. it cant be this recalibration thing can it?

    any help or advice is appreciated.

    thank you,
    Scott
     
  7. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    I'm going to suggest setting the Scangauge II to monitor:
    • min block number
    • min block voltage
    • max block number
    • max block voltage
    In normal operation the min and max block numbers should wander between 3-4 numbers. The more numbers the better. But if one module-pair number stays time, after time, you've got the pair that are probably out of balance.

    Bob Wilson
     
  8. scotman27

    scotman27 Active Member

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    Ok,
    My prius coded on the way to work. P3006, p3000, and a new p3016 for block 6(which I figured was the culprit. Bob, I did what you told me Witt the scanguage. Voltages at rest or coasting are within .03 .05v Now when putting on a load. Block 6 is about 1.5 volts out. When Regen block 6 is highest at 18.5-19. So I'm thinking I'm going to try and cycle that Block tomorrow with my super brain 977 about 3-4 times and see what happens. when I am cruising or driving along the battery voltages seem fine and are within spec. block 6 only minimizes and maximizes when either first regenerating or when is in ev mode. it does stabilize right away if I stop doing either of those

    if that does not work then it looks like ill ask some fellow Prius chatters if they have any good gen 1 cells.

    What do you think
     
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  9. scotman27

    scotman27 Active Member

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    ok,
    did some tests here at home. definitely block 6. now i got into the driveway. and force charged it. got it up to 73 soc then boom, right away it immediately jumped down to 34.5. what the heck. then i couldnt force charge it. so i drove it around. got it back to 58 soc. came up to the house. boom right down to 34.5. as it sits now. 43.8 soc. put it in reverse and drained. block 6 14.2 highest block is 16.5. so what do you think. should I cycle the block or should i try the water fill thing that was mentioned once before where you drill holes and put some distilled water in the batteries. bob what would you do in this situation. the car drives fine except for this rapid jump in soc. and would you know anyone that has some decent used gen 1 cells i could get so i can be prepared and hopefully this will get me through the next couple months until i build up some funds (i could easily take a loan for some gen3 cells but dont feel like doing a loan).
     
  10. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    The water trick is extremely experimental. I'll go over some options later.

    Bob Wilson
     
  11. scotman27

    scotman27 Active Member

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    Ok bob, sounds great. i am actually going out now to start getting the outer cover off so i can get that block disconnected from the others and start cycling it. My superbrain977 can do 2 batts at one time so i can do that whole block in one shot. see what happens
     
  12. scotman27

    scotman27 Active Member

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    okay so I am currently charging the one bad cell in my battery. I started measuring across the battery cells I already had block 6 marked. sure enough the rest were 7.53 and above up to 7.9( those were the two outside modules at 7.9). but that one on block 6 was the only one at 6.53 volt.

    I am currently charging it at 1 amp and it is at 8.10v.. I plan on discharging it down to six and then recharging it back till it peaks,out. I will be staying with the battery of course. I plan on doing this about 4 to 5 times and measuring the mah.

    I don't know if I am doing this correctly or not.

    Bob, or anyone else for that matter what can be my possible options. I am NOT going to get rid of or scrap the car. just wanna know what I can do for now to get me through the next couple months so I can build some funds for some newer generation 3 battery cells. or known newer generation 2 battery cells.

    thank you guys for your input it is much appreciated
    Scott
     
  13. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    What Ahr capacity do your 'good' modules show?

    I have a bunch of NHW11 modules left over from my good NHW11 pack that have been capacity cycled earlier this year. Let me know what Ahr capacity your existing modules have and I'll see if I have a pair that comes close. Then comes the question of price.

    It looks like a bunch of junk on Ebay are priced in the $40 range. I'll pro-rate the price based upon:

    (<measured_capacity> / 6.5 Ahr) * $40 :: per module

    If this sounds fair enough, send me a PM and we'll use one of the USPS $10 fixed rate packages (or whatever they are now) to handle shipping.

    Now the module rehydration is extremely experimental. The problem being trying to seal up the holes afterwards. The thermoplastic does not adhere to any know epoxy or sealants. The Toyota patent on recycling the modules involves plastic welding which turns out to be surprisingly difficult. There is one report of using stainless-steel, machine screws but it wasn't me and my experiments have shown the KOH has amazing 'creep' properties (*). It was probably the prototype of 'the blob.' If you want to try the rehydration experiment, I've come up with a new method.

    Take a pair of modules and drill a hole through the 'hydrogen vent' which has also been called the pressure relief valve. Add the water while the module is on its side until you see some come out. Then set the modules upright and start charge/discharge cycles. This will reactivate the NiMH interface with each cycle increasing the Ahr capacity. The modules already have enough KOH, they are just dried out because of the loss of H{2} generated in normal operation.

    Get some vinyl tube and stainless steel, screw-type hose clamps. You'll put the modules side-by-side, opposite polarity on each end. Then cut-to-fit with a little slack and use the screw-type, hose clamps to secure the vinyl tubes to the pressure relief nipples. The vinyl tube should be immune to KOH and flex to deal with the normal pressure changes.

    Now you will have to do something about the existing, rubber tube manifolds. Near as I can tell they are there to vent hydrogen overboard if the pressure relief valves ever work. But using pH test kits, I've not found evidence that ever happens.

    My experience is that a module that drops 1.2V is internally damaged and can not be rehydrated. Weak, 2.2-2.5 Ahr modules can be recovered to full capacity. But the extremely experimental aspect is trying to seal the modules.

    Bob Wilson

    * - KOH eats copper and most metals. It also eats clothing. In fact, it is an excellent drain cleaner because it eats everything. Be sure and wear eye protection and surgical gloves are a good idea. It really is wicked stuff so treat it with respect.
     
  14. scotman27

    scotman27 Active Member

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    the first cycle got me 1050 mah on the bad module. the second got me 1780mah. i just got up now and am going to do a third discharge and charge and see what that does. now i noticed during charge at 1.5 amps that it will top out at roughly 8.4v. during discharge it will go to 5.5v now what else i noticed is that once during charge the voltage hits 7-7.1v it will jump to 8.0v. during discharge once it hits 8.0v it will jump down to 6.8v. i dont believe tha should be doing that.
     
  15. scotman27

    scotman27 Active Member

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    I dont know yet what the good ones show. all i know is this one in block 6 was at 6.9 while all the others were at 7.53 and above up to 7.9(these were the 2 outer ones).
     
  16. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    Scotman,
    That module has a dead cell for sure. That's why it is doing what its doing. You either need to fix it like Bob said or buy a different one from him. I would personally go with buying one from him but that's up to you.
     
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  17. scotman27

    scotman27 Active Member

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    I sent him a message to see. but what about the capacity thing. do i just measure the capacity of the ones around the bad one? or do i got to do the whole battery?
     
  18. scotman27

    scotman27 Active Member

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    I only got today off so i got to do this( check capacity and order one from bob) today. i got a ford escort to back me up. if i gotta order the battery from him today. hopefully it will be here by saturday(my next day off) to put it in and install it.
     
  19. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    You can use one of the flat rate boxes and priority mail it for $4.50. It is supposed to arrive in 2 days. :)
     
  20. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    What you really need to do though is check the ah capacity of some of your modules so he can send you a match.