'05 Prius wont start!

What damage is apparent to you from the accident?

Has the car been driven since the accident, or is the no-start issue due to accident damage?

How much fuel is available, per the fuel gauge?

Have you measured voltage across the 12V battery to see whether it is low? Should be 12.6V or more to be considered fully-charged.

The hybrid system icon on the MFD is not a good one to see - this implies a problem with the hybrid system such as the traction battery, inverter, or transaxle. You'll need to retrieve the DTC to get a clue about what is wrong with the car. You'll also need repair documentation, which you can obtain online at the following subscription website: techinfo.toyota.com

Good luck.

 

Thanks for providing more info. This raises more questions/observations:

1. Has the inverter coolant system been filled with SLLC coolant now, and has air been purged out of the system?

2. The 12V battery should not measure 17V under any circumstances. When IG-OFF and the battery has rested for a while it should measure ~12.6V or so. When READY and the DC to DC converter (within the inverter) is running, the voltage should measure ~13.8V. I suggest that you need a new digital multimeter; or else your inverter has a serious problem.

3. If you have access to a decent OBD-II code scanner you can try connecting it to the OBD-II port to see whether you can retrieve DTC or not. However if you can retrieve codes, don't assume that you were able to retrieve all logged codes. If you can't retrieve any codes but you still have the warning icons, then you know for sure that your scanner is useless.

4. Since you had to replace the air conditioning condenser, did you feel the need to add any compressor oil? If so, did you use ND-OIL11 only? If any other oil is used this will cause problems with the AC compressor and a DTC will be logged for that reason.

5. Regarding the radiator fans, note that the two fans have different blade counts. The driver's side fan has 5 blades while the passenger's side fan has 7 blades. If the fans are reversed, then they will blow air towards the radiator rather than create a suction (since they counter-rotate), so the fans will be useless when the car is traveling at speed.

6. When replacing the radiator coolant, were you able to purge all air out of the system? Note the coolant heat recovery canister located in front of the LF wheel well also needs to be filled with coolant; total system capacity is ~9 qt. I've used 6 qt when doing a drain and refill.

7. What is the condition of the wiring harness? Are there any broken connectors or wires? All must be perfect.

8. When you previously were able to start the car twice, how long did the engine run? If only for a few seconds, then my guess is that the engine never started, but was just being spun by MG1 until the hybrid vehicle ECU gave up.

9. If everything above is correct and you still can't start the car, try disconnecting the negative cable of the 12V battery for several minutes; then reconnect. This hopefully will clear existing DTC and you can have a fresh go at starting the car. However, you are limited as to the number of times that you can attempt to start the car, since the traction (main) battery will eventually lose power. If it does so, you will really be out of luck since recharging the traction battery is not a trivial exercise and can create a significant shock hazard for a DIYer.

 

Regarding #3, you might try buying an OBD-II reader for $150 - $200 or so that is rated to be compliant with the Toyota CAN, then try it and see what codes you can pull up. If it doesn't work return it.

Regarding #4, this is OK as long as the AC system is off.

Regarding #8, my guess is that the engine has not started.

Regarding #9, if you need to disconnect both battery terminals, then you should disconnect the negative side first. The reason for this is that if you should work on the positive side and short the terminal to ground while the negative side is connected, then you will have a big spark and a potential accident. If you start on the negative side and short the terminal to ground, no problem.

What is the location of the main fuse that you referred to - is that within the fuse block attached to the positive terminal of the battery?

Have you looked at the traction battery to determine the status of the orange service interlock plug? When the plug is inserted, the handle needs to be pivoted 90 degrees and then slid (up or down, I forget which way) to lock the handle. If this is not done, a DTC will be logged.

 

"Starting" is deceptive since the motors spin the engine pretty
briskly as part of trying to light it. That sounds like it's
running even if it's not producing any power. To test, try
moving to Neutral quickly after cranking starts; if the engine
is really running it will settle to an idle, or else shudder
and die.
.
You really really do want a reasonably capable scantool to go
along with this car. Check out autoenginuity, they seem to have
the manufacturer-specific stuff for the Prius fairly well in hand.
.
_H*

 

I am in the same exact situation as you are. i bought a 07 Prius in an auction with front end damage and replaced the same parts that you did. When I tried to start it did exactly what happened to you after running for about 5 secs the 2nd time, I saw all warning lights and it won't start anymore. What have you done so far? is you car working now?
Your help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

 

Also check, I'm not sure if it applies to Prius but I bet it does, that the fuel pump is indeed pumping fuel. I thought I remember something in the pass that when a car is involved in a collision there is a "g"switch in the fuel pump that shuts it off so it doesn't continue to pump fuel after a collision and it has to be reset.

 

You guys need to check the MG1 and MG2 sensor connections that are low on the engine for damage. One of them is on the center of the engine/motor assy below the big square cover. The other one is on the drivers side of the transaxle/motor assy. Do you have any pics of the car before you started the repairs?

 

You can usually rent a decent scan tool from a automotive parts store for 10-20 dollars. That should at least allow you to see what codes have been triggered and clear if needed.

 

So many things in a Prius can be damaged in an accident it'll turn you white. Would you have bought this one if you'd known that broken Priuses could be so much "fun" to work on?