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2006 Prius with P0AA6, 614 HV fault - inverter??

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by GreenMiki, Aug 25, 2019.

  1. GreenMiki

    GreenMiki Junior Member

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    2006 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    Hi everyone, I’ve been reading many many threads and its all been so helpful so thanks to you all! This particular code seems to be rare and the threads on it have concluded in several different parts being replaced or don't have any resolution at all. I would appreciate any insights or advice on my situation!

    history of the car:

    2006 model, 126,000 miles. I bought it at 123k about 8 months ago. The previous owner took it to the dealer for everything and regular inspections, got the spark plugs changed, tires rotated etc. One thing I’ve noticed from the service records is that the transmission fluid has never been changed, they only “inspected and adjusted all fluid levels” - so I will be having that done soon regardless. Two years ago the HV battery died and she replaced it with an aftermarket battery (at a dealer) which itself died about a year ago when it was still under warranty and was replaced with a new aftermarket battery.

    Two months ago I had a red triangle and all the other lights error upon starting the car (after sitting for a few days) and it wouldn’t go into drive. Towed it to the dealer, they said the 12v battery was low (11.9) and charged it and said nothing else was wrong. It happened again so I changed the 12v myself. I also checked the hybrid battery fan (it was pretty clean) and seam sealed some cracks in the roof that were letting water in.

    Problem:

    Last week I had a red triangle error while driving, pulled over to park it and when I turned it off and back on again, it wouldn’t go into drive. Towed it to a shop and they pulled code P00A6-526, then test drove it 20 miles and couldn’t replicate the error. They also said they didn’t find anything off with the HV battery but I’m not sure what they did to get that result.

    I got a miniVCI from Ebay and Techstream up and running (I am using a Windows XP virtual machine on my Mac). Pulled the codes myself to get P0AA6, 526 and 614. This seems to mean that the fault could be in the battery, the inverter, or a bunch of things in between. But not the transaxle. I have the manual PDF that lists the potential places it could be:
    •Frame wire
    •System main relay
    •System main resistor
    •HV battery assembly
    •Inverter with converter assembly
    •Main battery cable
    •No. 2 main battery cable
    •Battery plug
    •No. 2 frame wire
    •Junction block

    I also checked the inverter coolant pump and it has turbulence. Tried doing the test from Luscious Garage where you turn the car to IG-ON, then neutral, then drive and wait a minute to try and isolate the fault but the lights didn’t come back on at all so it’s inconclusive.

    I went for a quick drive while checking the voltage of the battery blocks in Techstream and did not see any outlying numbers.

    Questions:

    Does the intermittence of the issue point to the hybrid battery even though it is DTC 614 and not 612?

    Should I keep driving the car until the error comes back? If I knew it was the battery, I would feel more comfortable with this. But if it is one of the other parts, will it get more damaged?

    Any suggestions to diagnose the problem? I don't have a megohmmeter and don't think I would feel comfortable going inside the engine area with live voltage and finding the right parts to test.

    I can take it to the dealer but I don't know if I trust them to diagnose this issue correctly. Does anyone know if they are likely to go through all the steps in the manual checking? I know they are not going to open the hybrid battery to look for leaks. Also, if it turns out to be the inverter or transaxle I can't have the dealer do the replacement because I will be getting a used part.

    If I knew it would make it there safely, I would take it to Autoguys in Wisconsin as they seem way more experienced with Priuses. Also if I need to replace the hybrid battery they will do it for $1995 vs $2400 from the dealer.

    Any recommendations? Thank you for reading!!
     
    Landon51 likes this.
  2. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    It's very rare for someone like yourself to show up here and read as much as they can and do everything right. I'm very impressed! So if you've already searched though all of Priuschat for this less common error code, which it seems like you've done and haven't figured it out, I'd suggest to keep monitoring the situation and you'll figured it out as the situation deteriorates. It seem like you're doing great at considering every possible failure and then eliminating them. Just keep doing what you're doing and if you have more specific questions as you work through the process, let us know and we'll try to help.
     
  3. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    PS: While I don't think you'll need it, new battery packs sell from some dealerships for as low as $1650 and only takes two hours to swap them out once you've done it before, maybe double that on the first time. You've shown you're more than competent enough to do this task on your own. Just be safe and research everything first.
     
  4. GreenMiki

    GreenMiki Junior Member

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    Thank you PriusCamper! Is it correct to say that you don't think driving regularly right now is a big deal? I have also realized that if the car detects the HV fault as soon as it occurs, if I don't have an error code that means the leak or whatever is not currently "live". So if I brought it to a shop right now they might not even find the resistance problem that would be necessary to diagnose it, maybe.

    Yes, I can actually get an OEM battery locally for $1560 plus tax and core charge. My main concern (besides electrocution) is putting the core back together exactly correctly for them to accept. Also it would only have a 1 year warranty vs 3 if I pay for the install. It has only a small chance of failing but that's worth something, plus the cost of tools I would have to get, plus dealing with the core.
     
  5. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Since you have techstream, find the screen that has Shortwave Highest Value. Mine is on the Hybrid System screen, but idk what version you have. 5.00 volts is perfect HV isolation. The lower the number, the worse the isolation.

    You can start with the car in ignition-on mode, which is 2 presses of the power button with your foot not on the brake. This keeps the HV relays in the battery from going shut. Look at the SWHV reading. Then put your foot on the brake and press power again, this will shut the relays and put HV to the inverter and the car should go ready. Look at SWHV. Then put the car in drive. This puts power to the transaxle. Look at SWHV. Start the AC, this puts power to the AC compressor. Look at the SWHV. If you see something lower than 4.99, it would be worth investigating that area.

    If you see nothing <4.99, well then, problem may be intermittent.
     
    Skibob, SFO and PriusCamper like this.
  6. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Could you get specific about where you're purchasing this? I'm sure a lot of potential buyers would like to know of this deal.
     
  7. GreenMiki

    GreenMiki Junior Member

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    Thank you! I will try this tomorrow.
     
  8. GreenMiki

    GreenMiki Junior Member

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    Yes! It's listed on the toyota parts website at the Toyota in St. Charles, IL. I can post a link when I've got a couple more comments...
     
    PriusCamper likes this.
  9. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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  10. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    The car will let know you when it's a "big deal" to keep driving it... Of course how far you are from home at the time could directly correlate to damage caused to the system by pushing it's limits, or even worse, a busy day ruined by a tow truck debacle... So carefully calculate your odds, which if it's a battery pack problem is primarily going to act up when pack temp is above 100'.

    As for putting in a new one, study the High Voltage safety switch and understand how that circuit works. As long as you're certain that primary circuit is always disarmed when you're working on the pack, the component swap and core return is as simple as just about any other intermediate skill level auto repair task. There's plenty of videos online to study first to make sure you don't overlook anything.

    The 1 or 3 year warranty is irrelevant when there's so many packs on the road without issue over the course of a dozen years and even longer. A brand new pack will likely last longer than your current car, so be sure you're committed to Gen2 and Gen3 if you want your money's worth in the long run.
     
    Skibob likes this.
  11. GreenMiki

    GreenMiki Junior Member

    Joined:
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    Location:
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    Vehicle:
    2006 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    I did the Shortwave Highest Value test and it was 4.99 the whole time. I will definitely do it again the next time I get the alert. At this point I've driven 100+ miles and it's still acting fine. I think I'm noticing the battery go into the green more often though, so maybe that's a sign that it's getting weaker. I will keep updating as anything new happens!

    I could have a shop rebalance my battery with presumably one or two new modules for $400. I suppose I can do that four times over the rest of the car's life and come out ahead. Or I could get into DIY and come out ahead after the second module fix. I wouldn't mind having a later Gen3 for my next car though. Will consider all these options if it comes to that point!
     
    PriusCamper likes this.