2009 not going into gear, several codes

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by StephenJ, Oct 19, 2021.

  1. StephenJ

    StephenJ Member

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    Hey guys, I'm on here reading up on potential issues but thought I'd start a thread in case someone has newer info or tips of things to try.

    2009 Touring with 160k miles.

    Here is this issue....car wont start, has a bunch of lights including the "brake" light and triangle of death light, the abs light, traction control light, check engine light.

    Go to put it in Drive or Reverse and it just goes to Neutral.

    *I have replaced the 12v battery with a new one and the system is showing 12v when I look at the sub menu from holding info and turning headlights 3 times.
    *I also made a jumper wire from the 7.5a fuse to the connector since that issue has similar problems. When this very first happened the display brought up a message that was something like "p lock malfuction"...but after I changed the 12v battery it's never said anything else about that.
    *My HB battery cells all appear to be very close together.

    I have used the orange lever to disconnect and reconnect and was able to go into gear and drive, I reset the codes...but when I got back and turned it off and back on everything came back...here are the codes...

    C1259 HV regenerative malfunction
    C1310 HV system malfunction
    POAA6 Hybrid battery voltage system isolation fault

    Sorry, if I need to be reading more...just worried about it, it's my daughters daily driver and I'm worried it's going to take a long time and money to resolve it.

    Thanks for any insite!
     
    #1 StephenJ, Oct 19, 2021
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2021
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    The P0AA6 (that's a zero, not a letter O) is the code that matters here. The other two are just because of that one.

    The code means that somewhere in the car, the insulation that keeps the high voltages from the hybrid powertrain away from the rest of the car is getting iffy. By itself, the code doesn't tell you where that fault is.

    There are subcodes ("INF" codes) that go with that code and can be read by some scan tools, like the ones they have at the dealer. With the INF code, it will be possible to pin down where the fault is, to one of these areas:

    [​IMG]

    That saves a bunch of work up front, leaving just a little to pin down the fault in the indicated area.

    How costly the repair will be kind of depends on where the fault ends up being.
     
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  3. StephenJ

    StephenJ Member

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    Isnt there a device and software that can be bought for a Prius that's like the dealer software that you can see everything they can? If so, how would I go about getting that? I'm not sure what its called.
     
  4. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    The magic word is "Techstream".

    [​IMG]
     
  5. StephenJ

    StephenJ Member

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    Great! Should this one be fine? Looks like I can get it in 2 days. Also says itll work on Win 10 32 or 64 bit...can I trust that? From what I read here you need a old laptop for it, but those were pretty old threads so maybe that changed.....just want to verify about that in case I need to find one real quick on FB marketplace.

     
    #5 StephenJ, Oct 19, 2021
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2021
  6. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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    Good question about trust? It's a techstream clone from China. But you already knew that.
    Some of the vendors selling them will warn not to use their cloned mongoose with the real techstream software that Toyota rents out by subscription.
     
    #6 vvillovv, Oct 20, 2021
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2021
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  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I think that's the reason most people dedicate an old beater Windows laptop to the cause. They'll install the possibly sketchy stuff on it, then make sure that laptop is banned from their wifi or any other network connections, and never use it for any other purpose after that.
     
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  8. StephenJ

    StephenJ Member

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    Well I got a different scantool on it and it brought up like every sub code associated with P0AA6. Here is a picture of the codes its showing. Makes me wonder if something like a hybrid computer is bad.
    PXL_20211020_175224270.jpg
     
    #8 StephenJ, Oct 20, 2021
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2021
  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Now that you have a record of the codes, an option is to clear them and see which ones come back first.

    If there is really a contactor stuck closed, that can interfere with the testing sequence the ECU uses to try to pin down where the P0AA6 is.
     
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  10. StephenJ

    StephenJ Member

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    It's had the codes cleared several times prior to that picture. If I disconnect the battery with orange handle itll crank up and drive perfect. Then I can wipe the codes and everything seems fine. But once the car is turned off and back on all the codes return (and not being able to put it in gear). We did that several times prior to taking that picture.

    Where would a stuck closed contactor that its refering too be located? Somewhere around the hybrid battery? Close to where the main big wires attach to the battery?
     
    #10 StephenJ, Oct 20, 2021
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2021
  11. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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    Yes The Postitive and Negative Contactors are inside the Hybrid Traction Battery Packs Case.

    The other codes Isolation Fault need to be understood as well


    And Please remember this, that having the codes doesn't always equal understanding what is wrong. Many times a set of codes can lead to an issue that seemingly is unrelated to code descritpions to the untrained eye.
    And if there is an Isolation Fault there is the possibility of finding traction battery voltage anywhere on the car that can conduct electricity.

    There are several other members here that use the pirated versions of Techstream from china. I've read it works ok for them keeping in mind the conditions.
     
  12. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    I'm trying to figure out the probability of both the positive and negative contactor sticking closed at the same time...but my calculator can't display a number that high................
     
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  13. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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    I pulled that one out of my "you know where"
    I hope someone else can explain Iso Fault better than me. :cautious:

    edit: found a better description My Prius dead again, with techstream this time. | Page 2 | PriusChat
     
    #13 vvillovv, Oct 20, 2021
    Last edited: Oct 21, 2021
  14. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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  15. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Whatever the calculator says, if both codes are present, it may be very helpful to find out why both codes are present.

    Something always to remember about trouble codes is that they don't mean what their fortune cookies look like they mean. They mean what their detection conditions say they mean, and that's printed in the box a little further down the first page for each code's section in the manual.

    If an ECU is set up to monitor whether a contactor is stuck, that means to understand the code you have to bone up on what methods the ECU is using to monitor that. It is trapped in a box and it cannot crawl over to the contactor and poke at it to see if it's stuck. So when you step back and say "given the methods it uses to monitor for stuck, what conditions could make it think the contactor is stuck, and what could give rise to those conditions in my situation?", sometimes it gives big hints about the situation.
     
  16. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Perhaps I need to improve my writing between the lines...
     
  17. StephenJ

    StephenJ Member

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    Thank you for those great videos! They are very good!
     
  18. StephenJ

    StephenJ Member

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    So sorry for delay but as I got Techstream going the car started running perfectly so I couldnt tell anything. Then today is messed up exactly the same again.

    So with Techsteam I can see the sub code is 612. A couple weeks ago when it was running fine I had decided to look around the hv connectors that are under the smaller cover next to the main battery cover. Everything 'looked' fine, nothing loose, no corrosion, all connections looked good. That said, I did not remove the main cover exposing the cells. Should I look in there as well? Right now the voltage of the lowest block is 15.47 and highest block is 15.83 where it looks that the lowest is block 1 and block 14 (the ends I assume). Does that look okay?

    Now that I know it's in 612 where do you guys think I should look/test first? Pull the main cover off and test individual cells with a meter....or is there something else I should look at first?

    Thank you guys! I really appreciate your expertise!
     
  19. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Member

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    Has inverter coolant ever gone down significantly?

    SM-A715F ?
     
  20. StephenJ

    StephenJ Member

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    Not as long as I've had the car (4-5 years) it hasnt. I did however find that its P0AA6 code has sub code 612.
     
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