2010 prius abs,traction light on with no regeneration whatsoever.

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by jbesnrod, Jun 6, 2018.

  1. jbesnrod

    jbesnrod Junior Member

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    i hit a curb going home at about 15-20 mph.it ripped the plastic shield off the car(retrieved it)and a traction light came on.the steering wheel is no longer straightbut at the 10-11 oclock position to drive straight forward.when driving in dry conditions other than the steering wheel in its new 10-11 oclock position it seems to drive fine.wheni drive on wet roads the wheels/vehicle seems to drive awkward.so i stopped driving it.
    i took it home raised the left front wheel and removed wheel from car , i found a gouge (4-5 inches)on the inner lip of the rim along with some metal shavings on a bolt on what appears to be a knuckle bracket on the most lower point of the strut assembly.nothing lese seemed out of otder except the steering wheel position.I took it to a midas whick then told me that the alignment is off ,the rim is bent the inner tie rod end might be bent and needs R&R ,the wheel hub bearing along with the senson on the wheel bearing hub needs replacing.the traction light stays on.the midas quote to replace was $1400.00.
    i decline the service and decided to replace what i can myself :

    i purchased on rockauto and replaced the wheel bearing hub assy,inner tie rod end,new slotted/cross drilled rotors and brake pards(first time replacing brakes and rotors in 143,000 miles by the way).
    i bought a new used in very good condition rim to replace the bent one from ebay($67.00 including shipping)
    also did a whell alignment.
    now to the problems:
    the traction light doesnot reset even with a obd2 scanner

    the abs light on the lower right corner lights up and stays on most of the time intermitently turnung off but coming back on .
    i cannot use cruise control anymore,the cruise control light on dash now flashes intermitently.
    and ijust noticed the brake regeneration does not work either.
    i switch teh screen on my dash to see what is going on with cars regen.
    and the regen does not work at all
    the electric motors and moving arrows dont showing what it is doing is just blank thus making me start to think that it isnt doing anything at all . the battery level stays on three bars and does not go up nor down.
    i havenot change nor bought a hub wheel sensor yet.
    but i am curious as to why the car doesnot regen anymore .
    one more important thing the regen did work after hitting the up unitl i replaced a the parts. then it stopped working
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    welcome!

    tough to diagnose over the internet. sounds like more parts need replacing or something was installed incorrectly.
    have you pulled the trouble codes?
     
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  3. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    +1 to replacing something then causing a problem ;).

    Some questions:

    • Did you look at the speed sensor?
    • Was te sensor damaged?
    • Did you check the fitment of the wheel bearing hub assembly to the knuckle to ensure there was no gap?
    • What hub assembly did you buy?
    I had to abort a replacement on our 2010 front passenger due to poor fitment of a Dura Go hub:(.

    The back of the hub was not machined well and impinged on the housing. Caught that as I was under the hub and about to button things up;).

    Might be good to double check your work:).

    Keep us posted (y).
     
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  4. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    +1 on retrieving and posting the trouble codes. The skid ECU can give you those with light blinks even if you don't have a special scan tool.

    The skid ECU also has a special test mode, more sensitive than normal, that you can use to test proper function of the speed sensors. You enter the mode and then drive a certain speed and distance down a straight path, and afterward the ECU tells you if the signals were ok. In Gen 1 you could also enter this mode with a jumper wire, and did not need Techstream. I don't recall at the moment if that's still true for Gen 3; it might be, or Techstream might be needed.

    You probably don't need the test mode to determine what the initial problem is (whatever it is, it's currently significant enough to light warning lights and give you codes). Where the test mode will come in handy is after you make repairs or replacements, as a quick way to see whether you fixed it without waiting for the drive time and distance the ECU may need to show you warnings and codes again.

    -Chap
     
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  5. jbesnrod

    jbesnrod Junior Member

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    i hooked up a obd2 and zero faults/codes came up.
     
  6. jbesnrod

    jbesnrod Junior Member

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    the speed sensor looked fine .no chips or broken pieces.i should have ran a resisance test on it maybe.
    the hub fit snug tightening the bolts.
    the hub bearing assembly i bought from rockauto. i bought in the midrange :cost was aout $50.00.the cheapest was $20 the expensiv ones cost over $100.00
     
  7. jbesnrod

    jbesnrod Junior Member

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    update:
    after driving for a couple more days it is behaving in the following manner:
    yesterday 06/06/2018

    brake regen is now intermittently working.not sure why
    the traction light still stays on
    so that means that HSA is inop.(i can live without it)
    abs light comes and goes intermitently.
    cruise control doesn't work .the light comes on but when I engage/set it the cruise light flashes.coincidentally the screen page with the prius showing the wheels rolling, ICE and electric motors working stops showing ICE/electric motors movement after i try to engage/set cruise at a certain speed.

    06/07/2018

    update this morning:
    my 15 year old daughter learning to drive last night with me next to her overshoots a turn and brakes hard right straight into a ditch.Nothing happened to the car except some heavy scrapes on the lower bumper fairing.also we are okay as well.lol

    we drive to a gas station and check on the tires and no damage or air pressure loss.
    That was last night

    this morning driving to work the abs light does not come on at all,the cruise control is engaging or actually working and holding speed like it should .also the prius car screen page on the dash is now displaying properly the condition of the ICE/electric motors.
    SO i am baffled . It seems like the car had a a sprained arm.it was hurt.i nursed it, it still was hurt .then it suffered another fall but this time it seems to be correcting itself.

    now it looks like the only issue is the traction control light on upper left corner of instrunet panel.
     
  8. jbesnrod

    jbesnrod Junior Member

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    posted some updates on the original post.
     
  9. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Sounds intermittent but if the traction control light is on, there is a code there;).

    I’d get that code read so you can see where the cause lies. Is it a bad connection? Is there wiring damage?

    If teaching someone how to drive and the safety systems in flux, I know I’d want to deep drill until I got to a cause before I put an inexperienced person in a potentially dicey situation ;).

    Keep us posted (y).
     
  10. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    you need a prius aware scanner. tech stream.
     
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  11. jbesnrod

    jbesnrod Junior Member

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    it been awhile since my last update.I have had a lot on my plate and had to put this virus problem on the back burner for awhile.
    After replacing the abs speed sensor the vehicle now no longer regenerates at all unless I place the shift selection on B mode but still not during depressing the brake pedal.
    I have been driving the vehicle as is since and just deal with the lower mpg(30)
    I am considering replacing the wheel bearing hub assy with a oem instead of the the cheap version i installed firsthand.
     
  12. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    sounds like how my dealership goes about repairs, and charges me for their ignorance
     
  13. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    You are toying with us, to tell us you have used an obd2 scanner, and not tell us what codes you scanned.

    Please please please pleeeeease tell us?
     
  14. jbesnrod

    jbesnrod Junior Member

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    sorry for not clarifying
    no codes popped when using a generic/inexpensive obd2 scanner.
     
  15. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    The jumper wire/count light blinks method is always an option. It only gives sort of abridged two-digit versions of the trouble codes and none of the follow-on information available in Techstream, but it beats shooting in the dark if there is no scan tool handy that can report the codes.
     
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  16. jbesnrod

    jbesnrod Junior Member

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    Where can I find the jumper wire method to learn myself this ?
     
  17. jjmerp

    jjmerp Junior Member

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    Find the can 2 bus link/ OBD2 port under the dash below your right knee.When looking up at it you will find a connector with 2 rows of 8 pins each. Connect a jumper between pin 4 (CG pin) and pin 13 ( TC pin) on the OBD2 connector. Starting at the top row reading from left to right, pin 4 would be the pin 4 pins away from the left on top row. On bottom row pin 13 would be 4 pins from the right on bottom row. Connect the two pins using a small paper clip, then put the car into ready mode. It will start blinking the ABS light on the dash and the touch screen display will not look normal. Press the brake pedal 8 times or more in 5 seconds after turning the car into ready mode. Turn off the car and remove jumper. The ABS light will not be on. This procedure only resets the light, not the underlying problem. If the original fault is not repaired the light will come on again.

    -Paul R. Haller-

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
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  18. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    So far, so good (though ON mode suffices, no need to go ready).

    WHY on earth have so many people confused this process with clearing the codes?!

    If you do that with the brake pedal after starting this process, it will CLEAR the trouble codes. Yes, the exact trouble codes that the whole point of doing this is to read. You will then not be able to find out what they were, unless you are lucky enough to have them come back while you are driving an hour or a day or a week later.

    The name of the game is: apply the jumper, turn the car on, then count the light blinks so that you find out what is wrong with the car. You can post the counted two-digit codes here, and they can be looked up in the repair manual.

    After you have counted them, you have the option of doing the pedal stomp to clear them, if that makes sense in the situation. An example of where that makes sense would be if you looked them up, and saw that they were the result of some condition you had already fixed, and just needed to be cleared.
     
  19. jbesnrod

    jbesnrod Junior Member

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    when you realized the hub wasnt a good fit .where did you go/buy the replacement hub assy :dealer,rock auto,etc?and if you bought from rockauto which one did you go with and how did you come to choosing the one you did?
     
  20. jbesnrod

    jbesnrod Junior Member

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    Is this "prius aware scanner by techstream "affordable?
    do you have it/one?
    is it vehicle specific?
    (do i have to buy one for each of my toyotas?i have 3 of them")
     
    #20 jbesnrod, Jan 24, 2020
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2020
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