2010 Prius CHS (Check Hybrid System) Alert Round 2

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by chrisscott, Dec 11, 2024.

  1. chrisscott

    chrisscott New Member

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    Hi all, just joined here in hopes of getting some outside feedback.

    About a week ago my 120k mile Prius suddenly lost power/speed while my foot was on acceleration. This came with a Check Hybrid System dash alert as well as the check engine light. I pulled over and tried the old IT trick of “turn it off and back on” to find it would only shift to neutral. No drive or reverse.

    Long story short, a quick tow to the dealership and they said the connecting rod was fubar. Got a used ICE replacement and picked it up yesterday.

    Things seemed fine initially. 80 miles later I’ve now been presented with the same CHS dash alert and a 4th of July light show on the dash. Charging system light, check engine, ABS, brake system, EPS, and the ole yellow triangle.

    The dealership has agreed to run diagnostics again for free; I’d like to be a little more knowledgeable after they run the codes this time.

    Preliminary research here suggests the most likely culprits are the traction battery and/or the inverter but I don’t entirely trust my research and was hoping for some feedback.

    Thanks y’all.
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Well before all that we need the codes You have every light lit up on the dash apparently I didn't even know the generation 3 2010 up had the coolant heat storage tank but doesn't surprise me I guess. But there will be specific codes for the coolant heat storage tank and anything else that's going on.
     
  3. chrisscott

    chrisscott New Member

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    I’m sorry if I used an abbreviation I shouldn’t have.

    I was using CHS as shorthand for Check Hybrid System. I’ll be going by the dealership today and will ask about codes!
     
  4. chrisscott

    chrisscott New Member

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    Update on where I’m at right now.

    The only code they provided over the phone was p261c. If I’m understanding correctly, this indicates the inverter’s coolant pump potentially being faulty. They’re offering to comp labor and charge price of part to replace the water pump.

    Does all of this sound correct or reasonable?
     
  5. Grit

    Grit Senior Member

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    If the water pump is within price then go for it. Since the water pump failed on the replacement engine, it must have a lot of miles on it due to water pump mileage life. You should join the egr cleaning team and warm up with practice swings. You got more things with the engine coming.
     
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  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Witness Leader

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    Sounds like the fun’s already started?

    @chrisscott did they say which cylinder’s piston connecting rod was broken? What was the miles on the used engine; did they disclose?
     
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  7. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    Code P261C is for the engine water pump, not the inverter coolant pump.
     
  8. chrisscott

    chrisscott New Member

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    They didn’t disclose which connecting rod. The used engine was 76k.
     
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  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Witness Leader

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    Do ensure the EGR system is clear of carbon. This entails cleaning every from the connection at the exhaust manifold, to the small diameter EGR passages in the intake manifold, one at each intake port on the head. Repeat every 50k miles max.

    I subscribe to an oft disputed idea, that it’s the carbon clogging of the newly-minted EGR system on the Gen 3, that’s causing the head gasket failures.

    more info on EGR cleaning in the top two links in my signature (on a phone turn it landscape to see signatures).

    couple that with the low-tension piston rings (employed till partway through model year 2014); that’ll do in the block.
     
  10. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    That's pretty good so in South Carolina USA in the last year or two I don't know when this happened You got an engine from a used broken wrecked American car possibly in South Carolina with 76,000 real miles on it if that's a real thing you did pretty good usually it's hard to find those under $150,000 and I mean you'll be scouring the whole US looking for a US federal engine not an import JDM thing but one here you got you did very well if those are factual numbers If not oh well I don't know but that's pretty good lick especially now the car is 20 some odd years old basically That's almost impossible go to any other car model and try to find a under $100,000 mi engine for whatever it is a Volkswagen Jetta or something popular that you folks used to like be near impossible in the United States to find that engine because we we kill them quick we have 150,000 mi on stuff and 7 and 1/2 years 8 10 12 out you would be buying somebody's well taken care of whole vehicle that they want real money for
     
  11. Grit

    Grit Senior Member

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    oP thinks this thread was hijacked.