2012 Prius - The Good Ol' P0301 Gremlin!!!

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by QuarterMileAAT, Jul 13, 2021.

  1. Tim Jones

    Tim Jones Senior Member

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    Check the coolant everyday. Make sure you have a reference line....
    When you remove the cap on the overflow do you hear a pressure release noise?
     
  2. QuarterMileAAT

    QuarterMileAAT Junior Member

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    Yup, I have a grease pen mark in green to stand out against the reddish coolant and not a black Sharpie marker which can be mistaken as dirt or grease.
    Indeed I do.
     
  3. Tim Jones

    Tim Jones Senior Member

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    Need the egr and intake cleaned immediately.
    It's the miles that the water pump, inverter and headgasket could go at any time. Including the traction battery.
    What are you long term plans for the car?
     
  4. Tim Jones

    Tim Jones Senior Member

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    Guess I didn't see where u done that (egr)
     
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  5. QuarterMileAAT

    QuarterMileAAT Junior Member

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    LoLoL! Yeah. Pretty far along with the repair. At this point, I've done all the recommended repair and maintenance to the EGR system . Only thing left to do is get the firmware updated at Toyota. I've been contacted for a recall, so when I take it it, will have them take care of the firmware then.

    I plan to keep the car for a while (fingers crossed), long enough to see how the Cybertruck pans out. Thinking of getting a Prolong Deluxe Reconditioning kit as a matter of fact. Seeing as they are in San Jose, I can just pick up and save a little on shipping.
     
  6. Tim Jones

    Tim Jones Senior Member

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    I would just get a new battery. Lot better value.
     
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  7. privilege

    privilege Active Member

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    how much oil does it consume between changes ?
    what is your oil change frequency ?
     
  8. QuarterMileAAT

    QuarterMileAAT Junior Member

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    I change oil every 5k miles. I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and stock up on it when ever I can find it on sale (I bought into the natural gas thing a while ago with my other vehicles). Or I use a good full synthetic like Mobil1. I always make sure alerts are set at Slickdeals.net when there are front page postings for oil.

    I don't have any problems with excessive oil consumption. I think I mentioned earlier my oil was low. But forgot that when I checked it, failed to realize my car is parked on my driveway which is on a steep incline. So when the CEL first appeared, first thing I did was to check oil, found it was low and was shocked. Then went to drain the pan and expected to see no oil come out. But tons (or a regular amount) came pouring out. That was then that I realized the reading was off because I was on an incline. That set me off on this whole intake/EGR/OCC project with the '12.

    I think I am good now. Will do some final tweaks with cooland and the coolant tank and run the '12 through this winter and report back if the P0301 gremlin ever makes a re-appearance.
     
  9. QuarterMileAAT

    QuarterMileAAT Junior Member

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    Crap. Turned on the car today and got the death rattle for a brief second. Shut her down and popped the hood. Coolant dropped a bit. Opened up the OCC and a few ounces of fluid poured out. Definitely have a HG leak. Good news, Gasket Masters is less than 4 miles away from my house. Bad news, HG repair is always a gamble.

    Will give them a call and have them come out and do the job onsite.
     
  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    Good luck; post how it goes. (y)
     
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  11. QuarterMileAAT

    QuarterMileAAT Junior Member

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    Might just do the head gasket job myself. Doesn't look so tough and I have all the tools including impact tools. Also, I would prefer to have an OEM head gasket over the aftermarket Fel Pro head gasket that Gasket Masters uses. Also, noticed in watching their videos, they don't keep the rockers in sequence, which bugs me. Of course, I would save some money at the expense of my time. But I have time off in December and should be able to knock it out.

    Will need to clear some garage space, but I am pretty sure I can do this. I've replaced a HG on my Ford truck before. Any tips from any that have tackled HG repair as a DIY'er?
     
  12. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    Not sure if I posted this before, has the Toyota gasket kit part no (includes head gasket, and most everything else pliable), and head bolt part no.
     

    Attached Files:

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  13. QuarterMileAAT

    QuarterMileAAT Junior Member

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    Once again Mendel, my friend, friend of all Prius owners, you are the OG of the Prius Chat forums!

    I am thinking eBay is a good place to buy the parts? Do forum members know of a better place for genuine Toyota OEM parts?
     
  14. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    Amayama? Worth a look.
     
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  15. QuarterMileAAT

    QuarterMileAAT Junior Member

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    Is there a procedural list for replacing the head gasket on the Gen 3's? Something like this which I used for my Ford truck?

    If not, I'll put one together in Excel based upon the available videos. Each step shall be numbered then a user can resort in descending order so you can work backwards in reverse.
     
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  16. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    There's a couple of Repair Manual links in my signature, will give you info, torque values, but yeah: the Repair Manual drops the ball, AFAIK it does not have a section, with step-by-step intruction specific to head gasket repacement. If you do such a step-by-step it'd be worth it's weight in gold, considering the Head Gasket epidemic.

    It could start something like:

    1. Remove wipers, wiper motor and cowl.
    2. Raise front of car enough to for wheels to clear, and remove front/right wheel.
    3. Drain coolant, at radiator drain spigot.
     
  17. QuarterMileAAT

    QuarterMileAAT Junior Member

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    I have the Haynes manual too. It is pretty hazy on steps. But it does have torque specs.

    Putting together the steps now into Excel.
     
  18. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    Even a simple .txt format'll do.
     
  19. QuarterMileAAT

    QuarterMileAAT Junior Member

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    Here is what I got so far. Will finish it later. Time for some food.

    Step Procedure
    1 Jack up car. Remove passenger side front wheel
    2 Remove harmonic balancer
    3 Remove wiper assembly
    4 Drain coolant
    5 Remove airbox
    6 Remove AC line bracket
    7 Remove grounding straps and ignition coils
    8 Remove 3 sensors from behind ICE (O2, Crank position, Oil pressure)
    9 Remove ignition coil clips
    10 Remove water pump connections
    11 Remove AC compressor connections
    12 Remove knock sensor connection
    13 Remove throttle body sensor connection
    14 Remove fuel injector clips
    15 Remove cam position sensors
    16 Remove ground wires attaching harness
    17 Remove purge connector
    18 Remove MAP sensor
    19 Remove #10 bolt from harness
    20 Remove last to connectors (EGR and one above EGR)
    21 Fold harness over to the driver side of the car
    22 Remove EGR Valve
    23 Remove EGR Pipe
    24 Remove hoses and bracket near EGR system
    25 Remove hose connecting from engine to throttle body
    26 Remove intake manifold, disconnecting PCV hose from intake
    27 Disconnect coolant hose from ICE
    28 Remove valve cover bolts and pry up valve cover
    29 Remove motor mount Part 1: Start with 14mm from underside first using deep socket and flex head ratchet
    30 Remove motor mount Part 2: Remove five 17mm fasteners from top side of motor mount (NOTE: Engine will drop slightly)
    31 Remove motor mount Part 3: Remove 8th stud
    32 Remove motor mount Part 4: Remove 3 14mm bolts from side of ICE and remove motor mount bracket
    33 Remove remove spark plugs and discard them
    34 Remove water pump with #12 gear wrench. 4 bolts can be removed from the upper side. 1 bolt can be removed through the wheel well
    35 Drain oil
    36 Remove harmonic balancer
    37 Replace crank bolt to allow motor to be spun to TDC
    38 Set timing to TDC. Long mark that touches chain to the 2 o'clock position
    39 Lock in timing postion part 1: Remove 1st cam shaft assembly (the one closest to passenger side)
    40 Lock in timing postion part 2: Fold shop towels into 3rds and place over cam
    41 Lock in timing postion part 3: Replace cam shaft assembly and snug up only the darker 10mm bolts. Timing is now locked in
    42 Remove timing cover bolts 4x 14mm, 15x 12mm all around, & 10mm in middle of timing cover
    43 Remove timing tensioner 2x 10mm
    44 Remove oil filter housing, ensuring oil pan is in place to catch leaking oil
    45 Remove crank bolt
    46 Set timing chain tensionor
    47 Remove 12mm bolt fasting oil dip stick. Push dip stick out of the way towards driver side
    48 Remove thermostat housing 3x 10mm bolts
    49 Remove exhaust shroud 3x 10mm bolts
    50 Pry off timing cover
    51 Remove timing swing arm
    52 Remove timing chain guide 2x 12mm bolts
    53 Remove timing chain guide
    54 Remove timing chain
    55 Unfasten 12mm bolts off valve train, leaving them in position (do not remove black 10mm bolts)
    56 Pry up valve train to loosen from head. Punch down with hands on vale train to break silicon, then remove valve train
    57 Remove 16x roller rockers, keeping them in exact order. (Tip: use empty egg carton to keep them in proper order)
    58 Ensure valve stem caps are not dislodged and are in place as roller rockers and valve train is removed before proceeding
    59 Remove exhaust nuts from cylinder head 5x 14mm
    60 Disconnect fuel line, leaving fuel injectors and fuel rail in place
    61 Remove 10x head bolts (size 12 triple square) in 4 passes starting from outside-to-inside and using an X-patterned as you work towards center (1st pass: break, 2nd pass: break further, 3rd pass: break until bolts can be loosened by hand, 4th pass: use power tools to completely remove.
    62 Ensure head bolt washers are removed and not dislodged into the engine as head bolts are removed. Be sure to discard head bolts as they cannot be reused
    63 Pry off cylinder head and remove cylinder head
    64 Remove failed head gasket
    65 Clean mating surfaces cylinder head
    66 Check cylinder head for warpage
    67 Clean mating surfaces on ICE
    68 Clean mating surfaces on timing assembly
    69 Clean mating surfaces on timing cover
    70 Replace 3x O-rings in timing assembly
    71 Put new head gasket into place
    72 Replace the cylinder head
    73 Torque into place cylnder head bolts starting from center, working outwards in a criss-cross x-pattern. Torque specs are 36lbs, then 1/4 turn, finally 1/8th turn
    74 Ensure cylinder head mating surfaces are clean once again. Apply maximum heat resistance RTV is applied to 3 sides of cylinder head. Do not apply RTV to passenger side of cylinder head
    75 Re-install exhaust bolts onto studs
    76 Replace roller rockers, ensuring they are in the proper straight position
    77 Re-instal valve train/cam shaft assembly, ensuring assembly is properly aligned as it is being lowered down to mating surfaces
    78 Apply high temp RTV to timing cover, ensuring an extra amount is applied to the area where the head and block meet. Add extra amount of RTV to the engine side of the mating surface where the head and the block meet as well
    79 Replace timing tensionor gasket
    80 Re-install timing chain, ensuring proper timing positioning
    81 Re-install timing swing arm guide, pressing it into place firmly
    82 Re-install timing cover
    83 Re-install timing chain tensionor
    84 Remove first cam shaft
    85 Over to the EGR area, re-install hoses and bracket assembly
    86 Re-install EGR
    87 Re-install thermostat housing
    88 Re-install water pump
    89 Re-install oil pump filter assembly, replacing o-rings and cleaning mating surfaces before re-installation
    90 Re-install oil dip stick tube fastener
    91 Re-install intake manifold, ensuring PCV hose or hose to OCC (if you have an oil catch can installed) is re-installed in doing so
    92 Re-install valve cover, ensuring O-rings are replaced during re-installation
     
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  20. QuarterMileAAT

    QuarterMileAAT Junior Member

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    The parts arrived. I was so pleased at how well the parts were packaged. Wow!

    I'll knock this out after Christmas. Will spend some time today doing a lay-mechanic's menial-type tasks to prep for the job:
    • Labeling baggies for nuts/bolts
    • Labeling wires with tape
    • Labeling parts with grease pens
    • Capturing all torque specs and committing them to memory
    • Ensuring I have enough brake clean
    • Ensuring I have enough shop towels
    • Ensuring I have all my batteries charged for impact tools
    • Ensuring I have the proper replacement fluids
    • Ensuring I have the proper RTV
    • Ensuring I have the one specialty tool needed (No. 12 Triplesquare for the head bolts) which I don't already have
    • Making sure I have the space organized for all the parts that I'll remove
      • Including folding tables and such
    • Thinking through what other jobs I should perform while everything is apart
      • For instance, removing the oil pan as I am sure there is sludge in there now that won't come out with a simple drain
      • Replace tranny and inverter fluid since the under panel has to come out anyway
    I've watched pretty much all the videos out there on Gen 3 HG repair. There are bits and pieces to be learned from all of them. The pro's do the job in about 3 hours. I am thinking it will take me at least 2x-3x as long.
     
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