About to tackle the inverter and radiator coolant

An AirLift makes the inverter cooling bleed incredibly easy. It basically pays for itself on the first use. It helps with the engine coolant loop too but the coolant storage tank aka thermos makes things a little complicated.

 

I've drained and refilled the engine and inverter coolant a couple of times over the past two years, and I found I didn't have to have the airlift to get the job done. The inverter loop is relatively easier to bleed. With the engine loop, it took some time (~60min) for me to massage the air out of the hoses and actuate the storage tank pump to get all the bubbles out.

 

The bottom line is, if you are a tool whore, and you have a lot of cars where you do your own maintenance and repairs, you will appreciate the AirLift. If you'd rather not buy a special tool, and you have the patience, then you can do without. Either method is acceptable and depends strongly on the individual. I am a tool whore and I have no patience, obviously

 

I have the Airlift II which is less expensive and has a built-in rubber adapter fitting which fits perfectly into Toyota radiators and inverter tanks. I used it on our 07 Camry and 05 Corolla. It makes refilling the cooling system a lot easier, and more importantly, it evacuates all the air so there is no problem with air remaining in the sytem. I plan to used the Airlift II on the 10 Prius when it needs the engine and inverter coolant replaced. From what I have seen there is a possibility of burning out the inverter pump if it gets air locked; and, it is difficult to get all the air out of the inverter system without using something like the Airlift II or the dealer scan tool. Here is a link to the Airlift II.


http://www.amazon.com/Uview-Airlift-II-Kit-550500/dp/B000O3IGI6


When replacing the engine coolant, the Airlift II will not always completely fill the system so you will have to add the remaining few ounces of coolant at the top of the radiator. The tool that really works well for this is the Lisle Spill-free Funnel. It attaches to the radiator top with a radiator cap type connection and allows the radiator to be filled completely, and with the funnel partially filled, the car is run to bring the coolant up to operating temperature and expell all the air from the radiator and upper radiator hose. To do this you have to pinch off the overflow hose to the recovery tank, just like when you use the Airlift II. After all the air is explelled, you simply turn off the engine and allow it to cool. While the engine cools it pulls coolant from the funnel back into the cooling system resulting in a completely filled cooling system with no air trapped inside. There is a stopper for the funnel that when inserted allows you to remove the funnel without spilling coolant. The coolant remaining in the funnel can be transferred to the overflow tank by holding the funnel over the tank and pulling out the stopper. Below is a link to the funnel:


Lisle Spill Funnel 24610 - Compare Prices on Lisle Spill Funnel 24610 at Become.com


Using both of the above tools has made coolant drain and refill a lot easier for me and less likely to cause air entrapment damage which is a significant problem on modern cars.

 

anyone replace a radiator yet?