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After opening door ABS actuator fires up then a cycle of clicking from the rear

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by leaded, Sep 21, 2022.

  1. leaded

    leaded Junior Member

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    Hey all,

    New to the Prius life, looking for a sanity check on my 2005. This noise may be perfectly normal, no codes or anything and the vehicle drives well... After opening the driver's door, I hear the ABS actuator pressurizing (whirring) but then a round of clicks from the rear, seems like it might be coming from the HV battery area (or maybe rear brakes?) This cycle seems to repeat every minute around 3-4 times. Here's a video I recorded of the noise, it sounds a lot more clickety in person.



    The ABS actuator was replaced at a Toyota dealership a couple years ago, so I hope that's not the cause... I've searched through these forums and I haven't found this specific issue, maybe someone has advice before I go tearing into the rear?

    Thanks!
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Hot daum that sounds like cars running.generally the actuator sounds like a small pump winding up pressure . Basically. Usually you'd want to record this with hood up standing looking at actuator with mic. Clicking in back is normal . You opening door is setting pump in motion cause vehicle believes it's getting ready to start . Why else would be opening door?
     
  3. leaded

    leaded Junior Member

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    For some reason my phone audio got a lot of bass, here's the ABS noise closer up from under the hood... If the clicking is normal I'll just learn to live with it, just spend more time sitting in the car parked than I want.

    ABS noise - YouTube
     
  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    those sound completely different, and neither sounds like the normalbuzzing of the brake pump when you open the door.
    are you pressing the power button, or just opening the door?
     
  5. leaded

    leaded Junior Member

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    Just opening the door, I'll try and get a better video with both sounds standing from in front of the vehicle... My video skills leave a lot to be desired.
     
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  6. leaded

    leaded Junior Member

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    Here's a better clip with both sounds, I don't know what the ratchety whirring is, maybe the inverter? Thanks for listening...

    Edit: I put my hands on the inverter while the noise is going and definitely feels like it's coming from inside, guess I'll have to crack it open if this isn't an expected operational noise.

     
    #6 leaded, Sep 22, 2022
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2022
  7. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    could very well be a failing/failed pump. it sounds like the engines running!

    i'm surprised you don't have any trouble lights
     
  8. leaded

    leaded Junior Member

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    The low bass noise is my AC running for the house, I think the audio is picking that up. Failed inverter pump? I cracked the lid of the inverter and it definitely smells like "magic smoke"
     
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  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    That sounds a lot like the brake pump to me, but a farther-gone case than I'm used to hearing.

    Be very careful with "cracking the lid of the inverter". Deadly high voltage in there. Not to be cracked until ten minutes after pulling the service plug. Will also give a P0A0D code if not correctly re-secured.

    The inverter pump isn't inside the inverter, anyway. It's just below the whole assembly, behind the headlight. Follow the hoses.
     
  10. leaded

    leaded Junior Member

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    Thanks for the warning, definitely playing it safe with the high voltage systems. I was just following the vibration I was feeling, I'm pulling the whole inverter up out of the way to check the ABS part. I hope it's not that since the last one was put in less than 2 years ago new at a dealership... upload_2022-9-22_17-14-0.png

    If the inverter pump failed and the inverter itself stinks like burned electronics I'm probably looking to replace both eh?
     
  11. leaded

    leaded Junior Member

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    Inverter is looking pristine inside, no signs of scorching or burned parts... I reinstalled it and confirmed it's the ABS actuator/pump assembly making the noise. I appreciate all the feedback on this issue!
     
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  12. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    The dealer will correct me if wrong, but you may have a three (3) year warranty on that.

    They will want a diagnostic on your dime, and if there are no related codes stored.. then SOL (including the diagnostic fee) until the future.

    When was the inverter coolant pump last replaced?
     
  13. leaded

    leaded Junior Member

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    I only have the record from the Toyota owners portal, the car is pretty new to me, I don't know when the inverter coolant pump was replaced last.

    After reassembly I don't have any DTC, I took it for a spin and did a full health check with Techstream and the only code was for the solar sensor (expected at night) Looking at the ABS data list the voltage seemed consistent for the ABS sensor but I honestly don't know what the normal range is for that.

    For what it's worth the brake fluid is pretty black and dirty, I pulled a couple basters full out of the reservoir since it was over the max line. I am wondering if the previous owner actually went through with the replacement or just had it diagnosed at the dealership, I would expect 2ish y/o brake fluid to be relatively clean unless they didn't do a brake flush when they changed it out.
     
  14. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I don't even know how long it takes Prius brake fluid to look black and dirty! I've never seen it so.

    Well, I have seen it blackish from down in a caliper or wheel cylinder, where it can soak up some black from the seal rubber. I don't imagine seeing that up in the underhood components, unless somebody replaced pads and just forced that stuff back up the line rather than bleeding it out.
     
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  15. leaded

    leaded Junior Member

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    The brake pads were completely shot when I got the car back in August, I recall the fluid looking a bit dark when I popped the reservoir cap to compress the caliper pistons but I didn't do a thorough inspection, and I definitely didn't bleed them at the time since I didn't have my Techstream setup yet and I disconnected the battery to do the swap.

    Here's a photo of the pads, probably original? (185K miles)

    [​IMG]

    Gonna leave it parked while I wait for my new drums/shoes and rotors and just do a fluid change at that time.

    Thanks again for the additional context, loving this new Prius (probably more than I should? haha)
     

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  16. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    My bad, I should have given more detail. Replacing pads generally doesn't create a need to bleed anything (that is, to get air out of the lines), because there won't have been any air in the lines when you started, and a simple pad replacement doesn't let any in, as long as you haven't disconnected or disassembled the caliper.

    However, part of pad replacement is forcing the piston back, and if you don't open the bleed screw for doing that, you will force gunky fluid from the caliper back up into the underhood components.

    Opening the bleed screw for that is really not "bleeding" the brakes: it isn't about letting any air out (or in!), but only about letting some excess fluid out. For that, you don't need Techstream, or any battery power.

    While you might worry about accidentally letting a little air in if you open that valve, you can prepare by first attaching a short length of tube to the bleeder, routing it upward and over something, and having a bit of fluid in the tube to begin with. As you force the piston back, you will only be forcing fluid out through the tube, and you won't be drawing air in.
     
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  17. leaded

    leaded Junior Member

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    Good tips, I definitely have the tubing and zip ties to do that, I just didn't think of it! Next time (hopefully a long while from now :D)