Aftermarket LED headlights… grrr…

These have fans on them ??? On Amazon try h4 Aux beam S1 series fanless I've had mine on my van and gen2 for over 5 yrs now the units on my Gen 2 were on another vehicle for 3 yrs . Never an issue have h8 and h11 on my Gen 3 no issues . Good luck . Mine just pop out . Newer housings on gen2 also.

 

electricity can't tell the difference between a wire and a fuse.

When you substitute larger fuses without enlarging the wires, the two devices trade jobs: The fuses stay good while the wires burn.

 

Let me expand on that a little.

A fuse limits current into a circuit to protect some part of that circuit.

In most cases the fuse is protecting wires. The thinner the wire (oddly, the larger the gauge), the hotter it gets for the same current. The fuse is set at a size that will keep the wires from getting hot enough to melt off their insulation and/or light nearby items on fire. In a house they are trying to protect the circuit from a person plugging in too much load - like three toasters in one 15A circuit. It also protects against shorts, but in a house user load error blows most of the fuses. In a car people don't usually get to plug random loads into circuits, so the fuses are there to protect the wires from short circuits, often insulation wearing off the +12V side of a circuit and the wire touching some bolt or other part of the frame. Lots of shorts when a car gets in a collision - better to blow the fuse than to go up in flames.

In some cases the fuse may be there to protect a device in a circuit. For instance, many digital multimeters have an internal fuse to protect the electronics should the user make a mistake (like setting it to 2A for a current measurement and then putting 200A into the device). These fuses may also protect the user. Do you really want to be holding a cheap multimeter with 200A going through it? Far better to replace the fuse than to treat a burned hand. Multimeters have other bits in the circuits to protect the device and the user, like diodes and MOVs. (The latter do get used up over time and are not easy to replace like a fuse. This is an interesting read:
https://lygte-info.dk/info/DMMDesignProtection%20UK.html) Audio equipment is also a place where fuses protecting components are likely to be found, or at least they were 40 years ago, which was the last time I really poked around inside such equipment. PC power supplies have internal fuses, but they are not designed for end user service. In fact, some are soldered in place.

So, when do you get to change a car's fuse from 10A to 15A? Never is the first approximation. Otherwise, to make that change safely one should verify that all of the conductors on the path can handle the increased current safely. That would mean determining all the wire gauges, checking that they can handle the increased current, and if they are going to get warm as a result, that the insulation can handle the new temperatures. Maybe on a very short and simple circuit that would be possible, but doing that for a complex wiring harness would be awful.

 

The LEDs that you're putting in generally speaking are going to use much less volts Watts something then the halogen counterparts you're taking out and the heat generation to the housing and plastics is comparatively non-existent warm versus oven baking. I'm not sure why we would be changing fuses just to be checking I don't even know what pulling out the halogens and installing the LEDs You should be able to drop the fuse to about a 7 amp I don't know why you do that but.

 

Check and confirm that those fuses are blown.

Now let us know what brand and part number those new LED bulbs are. Look at the box and see how many watts the LED are rated at. Typical halogen bulb is 35 to 50 watts (around 3 to 4.5 Amps of current).

Is your car equipped with factory halogen headlights or HID?



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Can you be more specific about those Gen2 Headlight bulbs? I entered "h4 Aux beam S1" into ebay and all I got was fog lights? I need more keywords to refine the search?

 

Aux beam is a store on Amazon then search S1 lamps or bulbs then once you're looking at the S1 series you can find your h number like that h8 H11 h4 so on and so forth I can never get links to post here but I'll give it a whirl again in a minute I've been ordering from these people on Amazon for years now I know they're still there It's aux beam that's the company It's a orange and black box logo

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/275780701493?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1MhfCxo_hReSdHWs-E0r0tw77&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=275780701493&targetid=1644837435003&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9009590&poi=&campaignid=20125739985&mkgroupid=149128855676&rlsatarget=pla-1644837435003&abcId=9312975&merchantid=101684302&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8NilBhDOARIsAHzpbLBLfQ3_LMD9XZKag93JKUHLcM3zDekz1s3KhKt_fh7Tuq-THavhxmIaAoc2EALw_wcB