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Alternative to Remote Starter

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Accessories & Modifications' started by Stefx, Nov 14, 2008.

  1. Stefx

    Stefx Member

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    Hi

    I enjoyed the remote starter on my previous two cars, especially in the coldest winter days around -30C (-22F).

    Although there are remote starters available now for hybrid vehicles, I'd like to find a more environment-friendly alternative

    At home I'm fine. I plug the EBH and I have a small heater on a timer, in the passenger cabin (700W connected to a power cord that goes through the hatch).
    The problem is at work. No AC source nearby.

    I was reading the threads about using the Prius as a generator, and I figure I could do something similar.
    I have some questions and would appreciate your input please.

    Basically I would use the 12V generator option (not connecting to the HV battery).

    Setup
    I would use a deep cycle 12V battery as a buffer, plugging each of its terminals to the Prius 12V battery.
    A 1000W inverter would be connected to the deep cycle battery, with a 90A DC fuse in between, as suggested in the threads I read.
    I would connect a timer to the inverter, in order to start the 700W heater maybe 30-60mins before I finish work.
    Depending on the HV SOC, the engine would maybe run a few mins, vs running 100% of that time if I used a remote starter.

    Questions
    1-I'm having trouble finding an inverter whose specs allow subzero temp operation. Most of the inverters spec an operation temp of 32+ F. I did find the Xantrex IP1012. Any other suggestions?

    2-To use the Prius as a generator, do you do the "Start car, lower window, get out, lock doors, pull window up" ? If so how do you prevent someone from smashing the window and drive away with the car?

    3-Grounding. I'm a bit puzzled. The Deep cycle battery would be grounded to the car body mass. the tricky part is the inverter. Some say to have a separate ground, some say it's ok to ground to the car body mass. How is the Prius internal inverter (the one for MG1/MG2) grounded? How about those cables that clip on the underbody and touch the ground, to prevent electrical shocks when you touch your car... would that do?

    Other options I have considered but dismissed

    A-battery bank (charged overnight at home) + inverter + timer + 700W heater
    3 deep cycle batteries at 60lbs each = 180lbs.

    B-heat storage solution
    Couldn't find an off-the-shelf application. Driving around with an insulated tank with 200lbs of liquid hot parafin wax didn't sound safe.

    C-Remote car starter
    Burns the highest amount of fuel

    D-Webasto/Espar solution
    No application for small cars. Only for large trucks or diesels
     
  2. Danny Hamilton

    Danny Hamilton Active Member

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    Your "electric heater on a timer" plan would require leaving the vehicle turned on all day. In such cold temperatures, the catalytic converter and the Internal Combustion Engine (ICE) would quickly cool below operating temps., and the car would fire up the ICE throughout the day to keep them warm enough.

    In addition, every bit of energy you pull out of the HV battery (through the 12V converter) will eventually be replaced by running extra gasoline through the ICE while driving.

    The combination of the ICE running on and off throughout the day and the energy pulled out of the battery that will need to be replaced with gasoline are likely to significantly offset (and possibly exceed) any fuel you might otherwise save as compared to a remote start.
     
  3. Stefx

    Stefx Member

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    Good point, I hadn't thought of the ICE intermittently running to maintain the coolant temp at operation temp.

    Would the coolant temp hack circumvent this?
     
  4. Danny Hamilton

    Danny Hamilton Active Member

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    I suspect that most people who use an inverter connected to the 12V system for assess to 110V are using it either in a locked garage (connected to their house) or in situations where they are constantly in the immediate vicinity of the vehicle (camping, picnicking, etc).

    If you intend to leave the vehicle unattended without significant investment in modification or security measures, then yes, manually locking the doors is the extent of the security measures available to you.

    Of course, if someone does drive off, they won't be able to restart the car once they turn it off. Also, the majority of the time that someone might be walking by the ICE will not be running, so there is a good chance that they won't realize the vehicle is on.

    Unless someone has specifically targeted you or your vehicle, there are a few conditions that will need to be met for your car to be stolen.

    1) Of all the vehicles in the area that might be stolen (vehicles started with remote starts, people leaving their vehicle running with the key inside, older vehicles that might be hot-wired, etc) Someone who is willing to steal a vehicle just happens to be walking by your vehicle.

    2) That person just happens to be walking by during one of the brief time periods when the ICE is running, so they know your car is on.

    3) That person tries the handles and finding them locked, is willing to break the window (hoping not to draw any attention) to gain access to the car.

    You'll have to decide what the risk level is based on the crime rate in the area where you park the car as well as likelihood that a potential thief might be walking next to your car.
     
  5. Stefx

    Stefx Member

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    Thanks for the clarification.

    That brings another obstacle in play, on top of the temp hack... the daytime running lights.
    If the lights are on, there is going to be a ton of people reporting it to the security office, and they'll be calling me...
     
  6. morpheusx

    morpheusx Professor Chaos

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    I don't live in Canada so I don't have the DRL's, but in most vehicles in the states the DRL's will usually turn off if the parking brake is engaged while in Park.
     
  7. Danny Hamilton

    Danny Hamilton Active Member

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    Oops, I hadn't noticed that you were in Canada.

    Yep, not only will people be reporting that you left your lights on, but those lights will draw down the HV battery even when your electric heater hasn't been turned on yet. As such, the vehicle may need to fire up the ICE a few times during the day to replenish the energy lost to the lights. That's more gasoline wasted that might cut into any potential savings over the remote start.
     
  8. qbee42

    qbee42 My other car is a boat

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    This is a bad idea. You don't save anything, and grossly increase the complexity and weight. If you must preheat your car away from home, the remote starter is a better option. Either way you are burning fuel.

    Tom
     
  9. Stefx

    Stefx Member

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    Morpheus, good point about the hand brake + DRL off. I'll give that a try, might be handy someday, especially at the drive-in theater

    Thanks for the other inputs. That's why I posted the idea, so you guys could hit on the pros/cons

    Question:
    When the HV battery hits the low spot and the engine kicks in, what is the average recharge rate in Watts? That would help me figure out how much the ICE would have to run to recharge the HV battery, should it need to.

    Battery + inverter + 700W heater fuel consumption
    I figured that most of the time the 700W heater would almost never require the ICE running.
    The deep cycle battery I have is 100Ah x 12V = 1.2kWh.
    At low temps, the battery's capacity is diminished (half at -20C), but I figured the extra capacity provided by the HV battery would still usually be enough buffer to prevent the ICE from running.


    Remote starter fuel consumption
    I figured that starting the car with a remote starter and using the car,s heating system to heat the cabin, 15 mins at idle rate (0.2 gallons per hour, is that correct?I'll use 0.4 gal/h to simulate the faster rpm caused by cold weather... I assume 0.2gal/h is when the engine is warm), I come up with 0.4 gallons/h x 0.25h x 60 times (3 months, 20 days/month, 5 days a week) 6 gallons for one winter. That's a lot less than I thought. I am missing something?

    Even if the remote starter option comes out as the winner, I'd still like to avoid that route. I can already picture the heated arguments with the dealer.

    I'll have to do a test at home and run the 700W heater for one hour and see the cabin temp delta with outside temp. I might be good with two deep cycle batteries alone, not having to use the car as a generator.
     
  10. ilusnforc

    ilusnforc Member

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    Being in Texas, im in an opposite climate situation... But, I do at times have to leave my car on when the dog is in it so that the A/C will continue to run and it does so very well. What I do with the Smart Key System (SKS) is just use the brake pedal and power button to put the car in ready mode, set the A/C and get out of the car, remove the mechanical key from the FOB and use it to lock the drivers door, all doors should lock. Replace mechanical key back into the FOB and go about your business. This I only do in situations where I am not far from the car and especially around trusted people/areas. I really only lock the doors on the car so that somone doesn't open it and have the dog get out. This is also done usually only at dog events (such as lure coursing) where people know my dog will be fine in my car, otherwise people might break a window or something to 'save the dog' from melting in the abandoned air conditioned car not knowing that it was air conditioned.

    If you are worried about the car having a window broken and being stolen, probably the easiest thing you could do is use an "Auto Club Brake Lock" which you put on the floor behind the brake pedal and pull up on it until it locks behind the pedal. That way the brake pedal cannot be pressed, if the brake pedal cannot be pressed then the car cannot change out of park. As far as the broken window goes, the only thing I can think of is to possibly wire up an alarm system in such a way that it can be armed even when the car is turned on, and you can add a glass-break sensor or even proximity sensors with audible warning to let a potential thief know that he's about to set off an alarm. You could even use one of those alarm systems that has the remote/pager that will alert you if the alarm is tripped.

    For your heater setup it sounds like building a battery pack that is completely independent from anything in the car and just plugin and charge it at home would be the best option, that way you don't have to worry about remotely starting your car, worrying about it being stolen or even broken into and you won't have to worry about fuel consumption or any other potential harm that can be caused from modification.
     
  11. Stefx

    Stefx Member

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    Yeah, you're right.

    However I'm still puzzled by the grounding issue. Seems like inverters need their own ground, separate from the battery's 12V ground (vehicle mass).
    I haven't figured that part yet.
    Also, I have to find a way to make the batteries securely tied down in the hatch area. Imagine getting into a face to face crash followed by a heavy 12V battery hitting you from behind on top of that.
     
  12. SyCo

    SyCo Member

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    Yes it works. If handbrake set and lights not on "AUTO" mode, you can start your Prius with no DRL. At least my 2005 does so.


    Why not try 12 volts car heaters instead of going through an inverter ?? Wouldn't it be more "effective" :confused:

    Check the consumption for your required "heating" and recharge your deep cycle batteries with an onboard charger once back at home ??!


    Personally I chose the remote starter but I use it occasionnally. ;)
     
  13. Stefx

    Stefx Member

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    12V heaters:
    -Only 100W output. I simulated 100W heating by leaving a 100W lightbulb in a drop light on all night in the car. The cabin temp was 3 degrees above outside ambient temp. 100W isn't sufficient
    -No timer. I couldn't find a timer for 12V applications. The ones I found were 8A max, not enough to run 3-4 12V 100W heaters.

    I agree that the remote starter probably is the easiest solution... but I'm afraid of having to argue with the dealer if I ever need warranty work. If I can avoid a remote starter I would.

    And yeah the hand (foot) brake prevents lights from coming on. Quite useful to know!

    I have to simulate one hour of 700W heating running from home (ext. cord), to see if it's enough to make a difference in cabin temp. If so, then I'll look for a solution to tie down those two 100Ah deep cycle batteries in the trunk.
     
  14. SyCo

    SyCo Member

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    Hum okay, the one I saw where 12volts 120watts for 29$ .... maybe you can intall many of them (5-6) ?? Again because I think it would be more "efficient" but I have not done all the calculation.

    When at home I use a 900/1500 watts 110v heater fitted permanently in the back of my Prius (I'll try to have pics). It's plugged with a "Y" extension cord to my block heater.

    I use a home timer and run it 2 hours @ 900 watts before I leave in the morning. I did not measure the temp delta but it is really "warm" compared to the outdoor temp, around -10c this week. (I will measure it tomorrow morning with my digital thermometer and reply).

    When it is colder, I switch to 1500 watts and it does the job. :D
     
  15. Stefx

    Stefx Member

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    Syco,

    You found an AC timer can output 1300W (900W heater 400W EBH) ?
    I had a hard time finding one that could stand 1000W.

    Regarding the 12V heating, if I could find some 12V timers, I would rather use 3-4 12V heaters & 3 12V timers. It would avoid having to use an inverter. There aren't many inverters that state a sub-zero operating temperature, and they are expensive.

    One of the 12V timers I found (12V 16A capacity) is here. I'd need to add cables and a lighter socket

    http://www.fourwinds-ii.com/v2/?c=flexcharge&i=001

    Maybe what I need to do is use the timer to trigger a larger capacity relay, to which the heaters would be connected to.
     
  16. SyCo

    SyCo Member

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    Sure, an electronic one bought at Canadian Tire, I'll take pics tonight.

    I think it could be cheaper with relay(s).
     
  17. SyCo

    SyCo Member

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    See attached my heater fixed in the back of my Prius.

    Also my timer made by Woods available at Canadian Tire and Walmart 110v 1875watts / 15 amp.

    and tomorrow I'll update with the temperature delta :cool:
     

    Attached Files:

  18. Stefx

    Stefx Member

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    Syco, how do you run the extension cord to your 900W AC heater?
    The widest spot I could find was the hatch door, along the upper lip, but it still squeezes the chord slightly. I couldn't find an outdoor flat extension chord.
     
  19. ilusnforc

    ilusnforc Member

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  20. V8Cobrakid

    V8Cobrakid Green Handyman

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    a remote starter would be soo much easier...

    in non freezing temps, my prius burns about 1 gallon every 12 hours.. so.. let's say it's freezing or below.. and it's 1 gallon every 6 hours... or less *shrug*

    that's a lot of warmups...