Anyone else jack the car up behind the wheel?

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(dallas2727 @ Aug 17 2007, 12:53 PM) [snapback]497895[/snapback]</div>

IMHO I would just open the back hatch area where the OEM jack is installed and use that one in the position just forward of the rear tire as shown in the owners manual. Why put a hyd jack in the wrong spot when you can use the one provided with the car for an extra minute or two worth of effort. To each his/her own.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(dallas2727 @ Aug 17 2007, 09:53 AM) [snapback]497895[/snapback]</div>

Its not recommended to lift it anywhere except the center jacking point or the location where the Toyota supplied jack fits (notched location just in front of the rear wheel under the door sill). Here is a thread where we discuss it: Jacking and Lifting Points

Although you are not supposed to lift the rear axle, I watched during one of the many alignment checks that I have had on my car, and noticed that the tech lifted the rear of the car with the lift blocks placed under the shock mount on each side. It didn't appear to damage the axle, but I would not try to lift from the center of the axle; it would definately bend something as you can see in the last photo in this post

I wouldn't try to lift from any part of the body after the rear wheels except for the center jacking point; I think you would be likely to bend something.

 

I used the jack that came with the car and used it in the notched location as per manual to install my mudguards. No need to do the front with the jack, just turn the wheel enough to get to the area.
Hope this helps.

 

Behind the rear wheel, no. But I did have a slight problem using a hydraulic jack at the recommended point ahead of the rear wheel. I **should** have purchased a block with a notch that allows you to use a normal jack with that thin metal lip. But I didn't and there was a bit of deformation...my own fault. No serious harm done, fortunately, as it was only bent a few millimeters and there wasn't any paint damage/invitation for corrosion.

My opinion of that design isn't particularly high but I've read here that you can buy the adapter blocks at places like autozone, pep boys, etc. for small money.

 

My opinion of that design isn't particularly high but I've read here that you can buy the adapter blocks at places like autozone, pep boys, etc. for small money.
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Or make one out of a little block of wood 2x4 with the groove cut in it (across the grain) to fit the lip on the car. It works for me.

 

The last time we took ours to the dealer for oil change and tire rotation they just pulled out the side arms and placed them anywhere. now there is a crushed spot

I recently found out that the HV wires are ran in a channle there and that is why all the precautions should be made as to not crush or cut the HV wires.

If they do get cut it will or should automatically shut off the current through that system.

 

Well it doesn't help now but for future adventures I would keep a set of 2x6 blocks to raise the
jack. I have two blocks each about six inches square to give the jack a lift. If you ever have to change a tire on a non level road you may find the jack at its highest point is not high enough to left the wheel. At least
thats what I found on my old Jeep 15 years ago.