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Auxiliary battery keeps dying

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by DaveFromDecatur, Jul 5, 2010.

  1. DaveFromDecatur

    DaveFromDecatur Junior Member

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    I've got a 2004 Prius with about 90,000 miles on it, which I bought used about a year ago (so I don't know its whole maintenance history). Since the middle of May, the auxiliary battery has died 4 times after the car was not run for 2 days or so.
    1. The first time, I called my auto club and got it jumped, and drove it to a major, reliable Toyota dealer. They couldn't find anything wrong with the auxiliary battery.
    2. A few days later it died again, so I got it jumped and drove it in again. This time they said the auxiliary battery did seem to have failed. It was the original equipment, and due to be replaced anyway, which they did for $200.
    3. A few weeks later, another dead battery after not running the car for a couple of days, another jump, another trip to the dealer. They told me a complex story that probably makes sense: there was carbon build-up on the throttle body and other areas, which caused the computer to think not enough gas was reaching the car to run it, so the car refused to start and the computer showed a low fuel code. They cleaned out the carbon for another $200. But I'd just given the car a 90K servicing at another shop, which hadn't found any carbon build-up; and if that's the reason, why did it start with a jump? Hmmm. After thinking it over for a day or two, they said that the carbon build-up caused a slow-idling engine which kept the alternator from properly charging the auxiliary battery, allowing it to run down. Hmmm again, but I don't know enough to say they were wrong.
    4. Yesterday it was dead again. I tried to jump it from my wife's car, but couldn't get it started. I'm probably going to have to have it towed to the dealer.
    I suspect there is some electrical-system snafu that is draining the aux battery, since it always and only happens after the car hasn't been started for a couple of days. But I know very little about these cars (and not much about cars in general), so if anyone has any specific suggestions to put to the dealer, I'd love to hear it. Is this a known issue with the Gen II Prius? Thanks for any ideas!
     
  2. qbee42

    qbee42 My other car is a boat

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    I assume you have checked the obvious things like interior lights and such. Do you have any added electronics, such as a Scangauge or after market alarm system?

    Tom
     
  3. Rokeby

    Rokeby Member

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    +1

    Steps 1 & 2 in your scenario seem fine; new 12V battery & all set to go.

    Things go wonky at step 3.
    What exact codes were recorded?
    Was the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor mentioned in any way?
    Was it cleaned with the throttle body?

    I take it that between steps 3 and 4 you drove the car home.
    How much time elapsed between steps 3 and 4?

    There is a strong possibility that the 12V battery ground strap/wire is
    loose or corroded at it's screw connection to the body -- replacing the
    battery may have loosened a corroded connection.
     
  4. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    What procedure are you using to jump-start the Prius? Are you connecting the jumper cables at the 12V battery at the rear of the car or are you connecting to the positive jump terminal in the main relay/fuse box? If the latter hook the negative cable to one of the nuts holding the top of the driver's side strut. Make sure that the battery polarity is correct (red is positive, positive to positive) and that all connections are solid, then the Prius should easily start.

    1. How many miles do you log on your Prius each week? I am wondering whether part of the problem is lack of use so that the 12V battery never has a chance to be fully-charged.

    2. If you have a digital multimeter I would suggest that you disconnect the negative 12V battery cable where it bolts to the car's body, then insert the multimeter in series, set to read current. See what the quiescent current is when the car is IG-OFF. It should be around 20 mA. Do not leave the multimeter connected when the car is made READY as the current surge will pop the fuse in the multimeter (normally 10A). If the quiescent current is much larger than 20 mA, look for a problem like a cabin or hatch light left on. If you don't find anything obvious then maybe your car has a stuck relay.

    3. If you can't do #2 yourself maybe you should find another Toyota dealer for Prius service, as the car does not have an alternator and the engine idle speed would not impact the 12V bus voltage when the car is READY. (The DC/DC converter within the inverter maintains the 12V bus voltage at ~13.8V when the car is READY.)

    4. If you find that there's nothing wrong with your car and do not plan to drive the car more frequently, then maybe all you need to do is to hook up a battery charger overnight, a couple of times each month, to keep the 12V battery fully-charged. Good luck.
     
  5. direstraits71

    direstraits71 Member

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    I wouldn't trust these guys with any electrical problem. The Prius doesn't have an alternator. The 12 volt battery is charged by the DC-DC converter section of the main inverter.
    Sounds like time to find a new dealer who knows something about the Prius electrical system.
     
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  6. andyprius

    andyprius Senior Member

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    Follow Pat's suggestions to the letter, using the multimeter as a ammeter to hunt for an abnormal drain is a cheap and logical troubleshooting system. It sounds like you have a very abnormal drain on the 12V. Check any possibility for any light that may be left on, overhead, hatch, door, etc. Did you see any corrosion on the neg terminal for the 12V, or the grounding point? Sometimes corrosion occurs on the plus terminal as well. Never having lived in Ga, I'm not aware of humidity problems, that will contribute to poor conductivity. Are you able to check the 12V on the MFD? It seems logical to presume that all this was checked at the dealership with the new battery, but you never know, especially when they think the car has an alternator. Only other possibility is, the normal 12V (actually around 14V) charge to the battery is weak.
     
  7. DaveFromDecatur

    DaveFromDecatur Junior Member

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    Hi everyone,

    For some reason the PriusChat site would not see me as logged in to post a reply to the thread earlier, hence the private messages you all received! It's working now, so let me post a summary for all to see.

    Thanks for all the various suggestions, including the no-alternator information. I thought this explanation sounded fishy. Though it's possible that the terminology got mixed up in being passed from a technician to a service advisor (not well-informed about Priuses) to me, this does not inspire confidence.

    I don't drive the car every day, but usually 3 or 4 days a week, mostly on short trips, so maybe 30-35 miles/week. It seems to take two days of non-driving for the auxiliary 12V battery to discharge.

    I passed everyone's ideas on to the service advisor at the Toyota dealership, who seems to be a reasonable person. This morning he said that a "parasitic current draw" is a possibility, which is what I've thought all along, so hopefully they will test for that, find one, and find out where it is. If not, I've got feelers out for other reliable shops in the area.

    AFAIK, the only unusual electronics on the car are factory-installed Bluetooth, navigation system ... and a garage door opener built into the rear-view mirror. And when I thought of that (thanks, qbee42, for pointing me that direction), I remembered this: Recently I've noticed that the garage door opener is on every time I start the car. (I don't have a garage door, but the opener was on the car when I bought it used last year.) It didn't used to do this, but it's doing it now, and I haven't found a way to make it stop. I usually turn it off, but it's on again when I start up next time.

    So: Is it possible that somehow something is turning this thing on when I turn the car off? Or, more likely, do I just not notice that it's on when I return from my errands and park the car? Would having it on be enough of a power drain to discharge the battery over two days or so?

    A friend of mine says that he had a similar experience with a new Honda Element -- if the car sat 2 days the battery was dead. It turned out that an interior lamp had been staying on when the hatch was closed, and -- even after the lamp was switched off by the original dealer! -- there was enough current drawn over a couple days to discharge the battery.

    So, I'm mildly optimistic that the rogue door opener could be the culprit. If so, I'm just going to have them disconnect the darn thing, since I never use it anyway.
     
  8. ursle

    ursle Gas miser

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    I'd remove it and terminate it with prejudice.
    Then I'd buy an Optima Yellow top and fit kit, if the present battery has gone dead a few times Already, it's toast.
    The optima can be drained repeatedly and will charge back up...
    jmho,ymmv
     
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  9. andyprius

    andyprius Senior Member

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    Thanks for the follow up reply. Looks like the problem is solved.:cheer2:
     
  10. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I assume that your car has the autodim rear view mirror with Homelink. The LED light shows the status of the autodim function, and the default condition is for that function to be turned on.

    Considering the very light use that the car experiences, I think it is unlikely that your car has an actual problem, and that you'll just need to use a battery charger periodically to keep the 12V battery charged.
     
  11. DaveFromDecatur

    DaveFromDecatur Junior Member

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    You're right on target about the autodim, Patrick, which I didn't even know the car had. The service advisor at the dealership informed me this morning that what I thought was the garage door opener being on unnecessarily was in fact the autodim indicator, which isn't likely to be the problem, since it only comes on when the car does.

    The thing about usage is, this only started happening in May, and my use of the car has not changed one bit. I drove it for a year in this way with no problem. In fact, if memory serves, we've been out of town for as long as 10 days a couple of times, and the car has started when I got home.

    But now here's something else. Sometime last summer or fall, the audio on the stereo system went out. Other audio features (such as guidance system) worked, but not the stereo. I took it to a car stereo shop, and the guy disconnected the 12v battery and reconnected it. It seems that these computerized stereos sometimes get messed up and need to be rebooted, which is done by disconnecting current from the aux battery.

    My recollection is that this happened after the car hadn't been used for a bit. And when we returned from a long trip out of town in early February, the stereo was again malfunctioning in the same way. I did without it for awhile, knowing the fix and just putting off doing it. When the dealership replaced the battery, the stereo started working again, and has worked ever since.

    It's hard to believe that there's any connection between the stereo issue and the battery draining, but it seems to be very hard to figure out what's draining the battery in any case. I think I'll mention this to the dealership too.
     
  12. DaveFromDecatur

    DaveFromDecatur Junior Member

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    Not only has the original battery gone dead, but so has the new one they put in in May. They're testing it now with yet another new battery.

    Tell me more about the Optima Yellow top and fit kit. I'm not familiar with it. Thanks!
     
  13. richard schumacher

    richard schumacher shortbus driver

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    Chiming in with my usual line: do you *always* lock the car when leaving it? If not, trying doing that religiously for a few weeks. If it emits a single long beep when you try to lock it then something is wrong.
     
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  14. jdenenberg

    jdenenberg EE Professor

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  15. DaveFromDecatur

    DaveFromDecatur Junior Member

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    Thanks, Jeff, and to others who've replied. I've already paid $200 for a new battery, and at this point can't see shelling out nearly that much again, plus the work of installing it (or paying someone else to do it), even if it's better than the Toyota battery.

    Meanwhile, something else has developed. I mentioned problems with the stereo system. They checked and found a TSB (Toyota Service Bulletin, right?) which states that the JBL amplifier may be staying ON when the ignition is turned OFF, which of course could result in a dead battery. An updated JBL amplifier is available to address this situation.:)

    However, the car is out of warranty and the amp costs $1028.76 plus $100 labor to install. :eek: Don't think we'll be doing that.

    So, any suggestions on alternatives? Driving the car every day (seems to defeat the purpose of owing a hybrid!), and getting a battery charger to use if I don't drive it every day, have already been suggested. I can live without the stereo, if they can disconnect it and fix the problem. Or can anyone recommend a cheap but reliable stereo for a Prius?
     
  16. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Maybe you could buy a JBL amp from a salvage yard and install it yourself? It lives under the front passenger seat.
     
  17. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    No not hard to believe at all. in fact your probably on it.
    I used to fix Stereo's and TV's for a living and a damaged turn on circuit for a power amp in a car is very common. Especially if the car is jumped alot. Whats even more common is for the head unit (radio) to have a damaged turn on circuit which will present 12 volts always to the power amp turn on circuit. Radio's is only 1 transistor.

    This is easy for any competent Stereo Install shop. They chase this stuff all day. Tell them your suspicions. And have them do a current draw check on the battery like Patrick said. And you can talk to them about repairing the JBL amp. Thats big biz for car stereo shops is repair or retrofit of factory power amps. Especially Nissan's and Ford's.
     
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  18. DaveFromDecatur

    DaveFromDecatur Junior Member

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    Thanks, Ed, and thanks to Patrick too for the salvage-yard suggestion. Obviously stereo-repair is not what a dealership specializes in, and I know a stereo shop I could take it to to see if the amp could be fixed. Meanwhile, I'm still waiting for the dealership to be 100% certain that it is the amp and not something else.
     
  19. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Your welcome.

    BTW, Its alot cheaper to have a Stereo Shop chase that issue than the dealer since you mentioned your oow.

    Dealer rates are very expensive. For the amount a dealer will charge for a looksee you'll be close to buying a new aftermarket amp. Whats that amp in there 50-75 watts x 4? Thats $300 installed tops. Its pretty plug and play.

    Good Luck!! A constantly dead car is a nightmare.
     
  20. DaveFromDecatur

    DaveFromDecatur Junior Member

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    Well, the saga continues. The dealership did simply disconnect the power supply to the JBL amplifier, with interesting results: the stereo system has no sound, of course; but it also silenced the beeps when you press a button on the steering wheel or next to the screen. However, the GPS audio directions still work, as, of course, does the accursed reverse-gear beep. (But, thanks to Charles Suitt on another thread [Post #3] -- I silenced that myself.)

    The dealership charged me nothing for doing the tests and disconnecting the amp, for which I give them credit (World Toyota in Atlanta). They admit it was a challenge.

    So now, assuming that this actually fixes the problem (which I won't know for sure till I leave the car sit for a couple of days), what to do about the stereo? Several options suggested by an experienced local car-audio shop:
    1. Call the Toyota regional rep and try to argue him/her down from $1000 for a new amp to something more reasonable. Sounds like a long shot.
    2. Buy an amp on e-Bay or someplace, and have it installed.
    3. Install a toggle switch or a relay to control power to the existing amp. I could switch the toggle manually when I turn the car off and on; or (he says) a relay might be hooked up to do this automatically.
    I'd be interested in anyone's thoughts about #2 or #3. For #2: any ideas about good aftermarket sources? For #3: I like this one (since it sounds cheap!), but does it seem reasonable, given the electronics of the Prius, or am I asking for trouble having a stereo guy monkey around with it?

    Thanks as always!