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Basic wood carpentry question

Discussion in 'Fred's House of Pancakes' started by Stevewoods, Apr 2, 2017.

  1. Stevewoods

    Stevewoods Senior Member

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    Noticed a hinge-side wood trim piece around an exterior entrance door was coming loose from the bottom up.

    I used one of my wife's butter knives and spread Elmer's white glue on the back of the trim piece up 3/4's of the way to the top (it is still attached O.K. for the last top quarter of the length to where it butts against the top trim piece.

    I placed some heavy weights against it and will check in 24 hours, when I assume it will still be loose.

    Yes, I have googled this, but thought I would trust opinions here more.

    So, I assume, if still loose, best thing to do is remove it, lightly sand the back side and attach again?

    What is the best adhesive to use? This is not my door, but the picture shows the trim type piece I am talking about,

    [​IMG]
     
    #1 Stevewoods, Apr 2, 2017
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    trim should be nailed to the wall.
     
    #2 bisco, Apr 2, 2017
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  3. Stevewoods

    Stevewoods Senior Member

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    Yeah, but....then there are ugly nails poking out....I think the original guy who did it used some special almost invisible "thickness of hair" nails, but he had some special nail gun.

    I have a Stanley claw hammer...and the trim is some special wood stain -- sort of Oak-colored or something that my wife spent a lot of time wiping on....
     
    #3 Stevewoods, Apr 2, 2017
  4. bat4255

    bat4255 2017 Prius v #2 and 2008 Gen II #2

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    4 - 6 penny (1 1/4"-1 1/2") finish nails at the jamb, (wood side), 8 (2") penny for the trim at the wall and use a nail set (a larger nail will work in a pinch) to set the heads below the surface, fill with colored putty,

    1/2" material would be a 1 1/2" nail or 1" screw.

    Glue at joints only!

    Rule of thumb, nails should be 3 x longer than what you are nailing, in a solid surface. Screws 2 x

    If it's only loose at the wall, use a 2"-2 1/2" finish nail and angle it slightly towards the door jamb. There should be a 2x4 (1 1/2" x 3 1/2") surrounding the door jamb, so there should be something solid just below the drywall.

    The drywall or plaster does not count as a solid surface.

    PS Tradesman for 40 years
     
    #4 bat4255, Apr 2, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2017
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  5. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    maybe your wife can fill and repair the nail holes to look like the wood grain she did?
     
    #5 bisco, Apr 2, 2017
  6. Stevewoods

    Stevewoods Senior Member

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    I think you two have convinced me. It's just that I think if I mess it up, which I tend to do with wood projects, she will be making some holes in me with the claw hammer.

    Look for some brutal beating stories from the Seattle area in the next week.
     
    #6 Stevewoods, Apr 2, 2017
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  7. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    maybe you know someone?
     
    #7 bisco, Apr 2, 2017
  8. Stevewoods

    Stevewoods Senior Member

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    Stopped on my way home from work, bought some "walnut" colored wood putty and a pack of the recommended nails.

    Got home, removed my braces, and I cannot believe it, but my Elmer's School Glue and butter knife solution is holding for now.

    I am keeping the nails and putty close at hand.
     
    #8 Stevewoods, Apr 3, 2017
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  9. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    pray for no tremors.:cool:
     
    #9 bisco, Apr 3, 2017
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  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Maybe break the glue bond while it's still fresh. It's something you don't want glued, better to just reset the nails that are in there with a counterpunch, call it good. If anyone ever wants to redo the door, they'll need to pry that trim up. With glue it'll either not be possible, or lift the plaster as well.
     
    #10 Mendel Leisk, Apr 3, 2017
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  11. RCO

    RCO Senior Member

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    Maybe so, but it won't be OP's problem! :ROFLMAO:
     
    #11 RCO, Apr 6, 2017
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