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battery rebuild basic questions

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by ronlewis, Oct 5, 2023.

  1. ronlewis

    ronlewis Active Member

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    I know this topic has been discussed ad nauseam here, so please pardon my repitition. Storms have my internet down and I can't see well enough to read through all of them. However, I've already read many before.

    I have two batteries that were throwing codes. I don't recall which codes. I replaced them in those cars and would now like to see if one or both of these can be rebuilt.

    I've taken the cover off one and the bus bar caps so I could check voltages. They all seem usable - one was at 6.84v, one at 7.74v, and one at 7.8v. All the rest were between 7.3 and 7.5, most right at 7.49. I think I see jelly around one of the bus bars, along most of the terminals.

    I'm thinking that this one has a leakage issue and not dead modules. Is there an easy way to check the bus bars for diagnostic purposes? And how about around I clean everything up and reassemble - can I check to see if I fixed the problem without reinstalling the battery in the car?
     
  2. ammdb

    ammdb Active Member

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    On the first Gen1's, there was a recall to go in and seal the battery terminals. If it's the original pack, this might be the jelly you mentioned. To test for an electrolyte leak use red litmus paper.

    The 6.84v module might have a bad cell, so you might be lucky, only needing to swap this with a known good module to get a working pack.
     
  3. ronlewis

    ronlewis Active Member

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    Thanks, Ammdb. That jelly does look very consistently applied, like it was intentional. That sounds good. If I get another module that is already within that same 7.5v range, can I just do a straight swap, or do I need to balance charge the pack?

    I expect I have a decision to make - the other battery is probably almost all good cells too. I'm thinking I'm better off to fix both by buying some new modules, rather than scavenge one just for a single module.

    If I'm reading older posts correctly, I could also drain/recharge that 6.84 cell several times and it might come back?
     
  4. ammdb

    ammdb Active Member

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    I've gotten away with just swapping modules, but it always seamed just a matter of time before another module would act up.

    There's good info on Prius Chat about how to recondition modules, which brings them close to their original capacity, as well as identifying modules that don't perform well under load. I never had the equipment or tried this.

    Ultimately I purchased a new pack from Toyota, which saved me from having to periodically fix the old pack (and my back).
     
  5. Trombone

    Trombone Member

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    What ammdb said about the "jelly recall." Had it done to my original HV battery.

    As for a new pack, Toyota is one choice, but probably the priciest. There are other possibilities, some of which I listed recently on another thread. My response is copied below:

    Here are some sources for the HV battery [there might be others]. I have a Dorman installed in my '02, and so far, so good, although the first one installed was defective and replaced under warranty (not the install labor, though; had to pay for that). When I did the math, I figured $2-$2.5K was much cheaper than either a new or used car, and I got to keep the car I really like a lot. But, you pays your money and you takes your choice. Good luck with your decision, and let us know how it turns out!

    2001-2003 Toyota Prius Hybrid Battery - Best Hybrid Batteries
    Toyota Prius 2001-2003 Hybrid Battery with NEW Cells | Greentec Auto
    Product | Toyota Prius (2001-2003) Hybrid Battery Replacement

    Hybrid Battery Pack | 587-000 | Remanufactured Drive Battery | Dorman Products

    Note that I'm not endorsing any of these, or favoring one decision over another. Do your research and choose wisely!
     
  6. ronlewis

    ronlewis Active Member

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    Thanks. Yes, I've read some of those threads, but didn't want to try to research using my phone. Maybe I keep the second battery as spares. Haven't checked it yet, but I only drove it <100m after the first time it flashed a triangle, so I'm think it should have mostly good modules.

    I haven't bought packs from Toyota, but I've bought from Dorman and BestHybrid, and both performed well. Lately, I've been scavenging from wrecked Prii. It's not that hard to replace the battery. I can do a complete swap, in/out, in a little over an hour. The batteries are heavy, but just to get them out of the car and onto my dolly isn't too much. I've carried them from one car to the other by myself. Good exercise.

    Everything is a matter of time, lol. Right now, I only need two more batteries, so if I got both these to work, I'd be good. But, between all the leftover parts I have, I can fix some cars for free, so I got my eye on another one right now. It may need a battery too.

    Any suggestions on my other question - if I do swap a good module in, can I reassemble and test to confirm it's fixed without installing it in the car? Swapping them isn't hard, and it's not too heavy, and it's good exercise, but I'm not a glutton for punishment.
     
  7. JohnPrius3005

    JohnPrius3005 Active Member

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    Hi Ron,
    As you know from working on cars (and life) in general, you can often get away with a lot. That doesn't mean it's fixed or it's right.

    Identifying and verifying good modules is a lot more than checking their voltage. Although maybe you can get away with that. Identifying and verifying good modules involves determining their capacities individually (at least).

    Once you've done that you can build a battery from the closest capacity modules. This also isn't perfect, but you might get away with that.

    Once you have a built battery you can check it's capacity also.

    One problem that is hard to check outside the car is how the "battery control module" or whatever it is called, determines a battery is defective by its measure of individual cells.

    As to the harnesses you can check them visually for corrosion and with a multi-meter (digital voltmeter) for continuity..

    Again, this all is pretty quick and dirty and you have no way of reliably predicting how the "rebuilt" battery will perform. My guess is that the "battery rebuilders" do some greater or lesser version of the above.

    Safer by far I'd say is to get a low mileage, low age complete battery out of a wreck and just use that. But of course the value of these is pretty well known, and the price reflects that.
     
  8. ronlewis

    ronlewis Active Member

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    I aim for FREE batteries and have managed to get several. These two didn't cost anything. Of course, nothing is free, I do have to run around, and do some work, and take some risk, but I've not been burned yet. I'd just like to use these up rather than toss them. I already have two old battery cores sitting outside in the rain.

    That doesn't quite work. I dare say there's not a single Gen 1 left running off the original battery at this point. They've all been replaced by now, maybe more than once; and, you can't tell by looking, that I know of, how old the battery is, and you get no info on a wrecked auction car.

    It's a dice roll; however, you'd rather get one out of a wrecked car than a non-running car that looks nice. It is almost a certainty (you can usually tell how the wreck occurred) that the car was running/driving at the time of the wreck. As long as the wreck didn't hit the battery, it should be good. From the tow truck to the auction usually takes a couple of months. The ones I've procured have displayed the lowest level when I first turn the key on, but all have started and charged right back up in a few minutes.
     
    #6 ronlewis, Oct 5, 2023
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 6, 2023
  9. ronlewis

    ronlewis Active Member

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    I just opened up my second battery and it's voltage is lower across all the modules, which I assume is normal since it's been sitting up about 4 months baking in our 100+ degree summer. Most of its' cells are 6.9v-7.3v, most of those, 7.1v-7.2v. It does have one that's 7.4v, like the one I need in the other battery. It also has 4 that are lower, 6.0v-6.5v.

    So y'all know, I'm losing it a bit in my old age - harder for me to research all this stuff, and I am hopelessly helpless with electronics. I understand that voltage isn't capacity, so I really haven't learned anything about how long these batteries will last. I'm thinking, however, that as long as all the modules are within the acceptable voltage range, and all within (?) ~.3v, it will work. If so, then I will get an alert that the capacity is/getting low if my gas mileage sucks.

    I think I can get that with the first battery, by swapping in the one 7.4 module in this second battery. So, I'm going to give that a try.

    The second battery...it appears that most of the modules have some life left in them. Don't know that I want to mess with all that though. Maybe I just sell them as modules on Ebay? probably save the metal box and ECUs for spares. Overall I need to be getting rid of all these parts and cars, lol. However I got enough parts to fix one or two others for free - if I see ones that match up with my parts.