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Best aftermarket suspension parts?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Davidude, Jul 25, 2020.

  1. Davidude

    Davidude Junior Member

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    I'm in need of replacing most of my suspension parts on an '05 with 190k miles. I plan on doing most of this in the fall/winter, but I have to replace my outer control arms now. I'm looking at Moog control arms from advance auto. Any particular brand I should be looking for? Moog is around $50 per arm on Rockauto, I'm liking what I can find on them so I think I'll order it.

    I tow my 350lb motorcycle occasionally so if there's something more durable or beefy I'm all over it. I would like to get a stiffer shock/strut whatever in the rear, but it looks like I'd have to find my own spring and all so I may just end up going with an OEM replacement. Any suggestions or experiences are welcome. Will be replacing the control arm myself this week and then getting an alignment, the rest of the car will have to wait until a little later this year. All suspension work will be done by me so only cost is parts.
     

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    #1 Davidude, Jul 25, 2020
  2. jzchen

    jzchen Newbie!

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    #2 jzchen, Jul 25, 2020
  3. ttou68

    ttou68 Active Member

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    Take a look @ 1A Auto... Reasonably priced, plus everything they sell has lifetime warranty, perfect for DIY... And free shipping...

    FYI, their struts are on the stiff side...

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
    #3 ttou68, Jul 25, 2020
  4. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Moog is complete crap has been for years. Replacing the lca is a big job if I’m going to do all that work I would use the best arm I could find and that’s a denso oem.

    There $160 each if in there replace the stab links there $100 each.
    And samewifh the struts.

    Btw you must have a new oem battery if you have a 2004 and able to tow.
    I used to tow when my 07 was newer and it hammered the battery
     
    #4 edthefox5, Jul 26, 2020
  5. Davidude

    Davidude Junior Member

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    After a closer inspection of the suspension, I believe I need to replacing the bushings connecting the rack & pinion. Contrary to my friend's suggestion, the control arms aren't moving at all. I almost picked up the part from Advance auto yesterday, since I need the part faster and have to pay the premium. [​IMG]
    The two outlined pieces move when I shake the wheel. Moreso the bottom than the top, I know the shock needs replacing but it will have to wait so I can do them all at the same time. I believe this is the tie rod, but I'm going to find a diagram of the suspension before replacing it. I think this is why my mechanic diagnosed the rack & pinion needing replaced, but I can hopefully get by with just a bushing that connects it to the wheels.
     
    #5 Davidude, Jul 26, 2020
  6. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Not sure what you mean the strut turns when you turn the wheel.
    In my 13 years on this site no one has ever replaced the rack and pinion on a g2 that I have seen.
     
    #6 edthefox5, Jul 26, 2020
  7. oldtechaa

    oldtechaa Active Member

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    The lower part is the outer tie rod end, and would naturally move when you turn the wheel, since it's the part that transmits the steering force to the knuckle and wheel. The only issue would be if the nut is loose at the inner end or if the rubber boot on the tie rod ball joint was torn or leaking or the ball joint was really sloppy or gritty. The upper part is the bottom of the strut, which would also naturally turn when the wheel is turned because it turns with the whole knuckle assembly. The only reason for unnatural turning would be if the strut-knuckle bolts, one of which is behind that large hose on the left, were loose, and then they need tightening this instant and no later!
     
    #7 oldtechaa, Jul 26, 2020
  8. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    This will be difficult because you may not understand what’s happening under there what moves what shouldn’t.

    What is the main issue that makes you want to replace suspension parts. Just based on miles your way way overdue for new struts there only good for about 75000 miles These are the originals. The bushings are gone on the stabilizer links and as far as the rack and pinion some cars with both front wheels off the ground you can turn one wheel and it will turn the other wheel with it.
    Are you saying with one wheel on the ground you can turn the wheel and it turns? Which means there is a lot of slop in the rack. It depends how much you can turn.
    Many have a slop nut where you can tighten it up increase pinion pressure on the rack. My crown Vic has this for example. Never seen the rack and pinion discussed much here it’s electric motor driven there may be some software to address this I do not know. You can find out by going on Toyota’s TIS site and buy a one day subsciption to the entire service manual. Get your printer ready to print.
    I would not replace the rack and pinion on a 200.000 mile 16 year old car.

    I see this Alot on this site people rebuilding a 200,000 mile suspension. I wouldn’t your at the end of life of the car here I know there’s will be people coming saying oh it will go 300,000 who wants to drive a car with 300.000 miles on it especially one with a hybrid battery in it. Too many things will fail as you go forward engine & trans & Abs that will bust the bank steering rack ac system cv joints blah blah.
     
    #8 edthefox5, Jul 27, 2020
  9. Davidude

    Davidude Junior Member

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    I didn't understand the suspension in the past but after spending a few hours replacing some parts I fixed my play in the steering wheel. The teeth in the rack and pinion look fine, so I'm not sure why he said I needed a new one. I replaced the inner and outer tie rod, getting the car aligned right now. Replaced the boots covering the joints as well.

    I can probably delay or avoid replacing the shocks, after a close inspection they're still operating well, just the boot above the rear shocks is torn completely. Not worried about putting money into the car, it's been very reliable and I anticipate it going for a few more years before I upgrade to something else. Thankful the Prius holds it's value, and I won't be selling it for $1500 unless it shits the bed.
     
    #9 Davidude, Aug 13, 2020
    joe arture likes this.
  10. 2004priusgal

    2004priusgal Junior Member

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    2004 184k
    replaced . 20210721_151921.jpg
     

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    #10 2004priusgal, Jul 26, 2021
  11. black_jmyntrn

    black_jmyntrn Senior Member

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    #11 black_jmyntrn, Jul 27, 2021
  12. jzchen

    jzchen Newbie!

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    Is 500+ lb spring rating enough for the Prius?

    moto g(7) power ?
     
    #12 jzchen, Jul 27, 2021
  13. Another

    Another Senior Member

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    if the OEM parts lasted nearly 200k, why would anyone want to buy an aftermarket part? My experience with Toyota and Lexus parts is that they are fantastically durable. Probably why the cars last so long.
     
    #13 Another, Jul 27, 2021
  14. jzchen

    jzchen Newbie!

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    When fixing our v's caster issue I found I needed to replace at least one tie rod end I think it's called. The bushing to the control arm was shot. Pressing out the bushing caused more failures. I believe every single one I had to press out consequently needed replacement due to damage/leaking. Conversely with the ones I pressed out on our Porsche Panamera replacing an upper control arm and air strut, 0 out of 2 failed and I was able to reuse them. V mileage 32k mi, Panamera mileage 49k mi. I'm not impressed with the OEM replaced with aftermarket...

    moto g(7) power ?
     
    #14 jzchen, Jul 27, 2021
  15. black_jmyntrn

    black_jmyntrn Senior Member

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    still testing and later this week will have the analysis completed on the PIP OEM springs for comparison.
     
    #15 black_jmyntrn, Jul 27, 2021
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