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Blinking fuel gauge, no HV battery reading, exterior temperature reads "E"

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by Sisterwrath, Jan 6, 2012.

  1. Sisterwrath

    Sisterwrath New Member

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    Back story:

    I had the inverter coolant pump replaced and some wiring repaired to the pump after the pump failed on this Prius and it was still throwing a P3125 304 code at the dealership who said they could not get it to run for more than 30 seconds. After towing it home I turned it on and had the error code the first time I turned it on, but after I drove it a few miles in town, turned it off and turned it back on the codes did not show up again and the HV battery showed a full charge. After the repairs I noticed that the gas mileage had decreased pretty significantly, down to the low to mid 40s.

    As I was driving home in the rain a couple of weeks ago I lost power. I had been keeping a very close eye on the HV battery charge and it was at full when the gas engine kicked off. The screen did not display any warning lights, but it did start blinking the fuel gauge from empty to full (it was a full tank of gas 15 miles prior) and had no reading for the HV battery. The display also read an "E" for the exterior temperature. All of the other interior electrical items still worked (blinkers, headlights, both displays, etc.)

    I got it pushed the 1/2 mile back to my house and checked the 12v battery, which was reading around 9.5 to 10v, so I replaced it with one from e-LearnAid. After replacing the battery, the display still does not report any codes or errors, but the fuel gauge still blinks between full and empty, the HV battery reads completely empty and the exterior temperature reads "E"

    Do I have a bad ECU or could this be additional damage from the coolant pump failure rearing its head? I have not had a chance to test the HV battery voltage, but I will post with that information as soon as I can get my tools home.

    Any help would be tremendously appreciated!

    Thank you
     
  2. Sisterwrath

    Sisterwrath New Member

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    It will also not go into the diagnostics mode on display by following the tapping the screen method.
     
  3. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    These are all symptoms of a weak 12V battery. When I replaced my 12V batt, it took a while for the displays to read correctly. How does it drive or does it? I would recommend driving it around for awhile. Mine took a good 5-10 minutes to "reset".
     
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  4. KK6PD

    KK6PD _ . _ . / _ _ . _

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    Yeah, this really sounds like its time to replace the +12 battery. If you have a voltmeter, read the battery voltage with the car off, if it's below 10.5 ish, time for a new one. If this is the origional OEM battery, it really needs to go, now.
    I recommend the Optima battery for a replacement. It have a much better lifespan than the OEM battery.

    Here read this thread...

    http://priuschat.com/forums/prius-h...-12v-yellow-top-d51-battery-pencil-posts.html
     
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  5. Sisterwrath

    Sisterwrath New Member

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    Right now it will not turn on. I did opt for the Optima battery 12v replacement from eLearnAid. It reads 12.59 without the key in the ignition and 12.28 when they key is turned into the ready position.

    I really appreciate the feedback!
     
  6. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    The only thing I can think of is to either jump the new 12V battery or hook it up to a charger. It should have arrived with a full charge but, you never know. I would try this:

    1) Disconnect the negative terminal of the 12V battery for about 1 minute
    2) If possible, hook the battery to a charger for a couple of hours
    3) Else reconnect neg. terminal and hook up jumper cables from a running vehicle with a known good battery
    4) Turn your car on (and leave it on for at least 5 minutes) and see what happens. If the car turns on but gives you weird readings, see if it's driveable. If it is, drive it around for about 10 minutes (hwy and city)

    This "should" fix your problem if there are no other issues. If this doesn't fix it, diagnosis is over my head/beyond my limits.

    Let us know if this works or what you have to do to fix it.
     
  7. Sisterwrath

    Sisterwrath New Member

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    I am going out to try that now. Will post with more information soon.
     
  8. Sisterwrath

    Sisterwrath New Member

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    The jump unfortunately did not work. I did get it into diagnostic mode where it read the following on the main screen:

    G/W-ECU: OK
    Panel ECU: OK
    Audio H/U: OK
    340: OK

    Then on the LAN diagnostics it read:
    01-DC 340-07-4
    01-DE 340-D0-A

    Thanks again!
     
  9. Sisterwrath

    Sisterwrath New Member

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    The diagnostic display also read the 12v battery at 12.8v
     
  10. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    That is so weird. Its basically saying there are no problems but yet it won't work. I'll bet even a Toyota tech will have problems with this one. I would get ahold of Seilerts and see what he says.
     
  11. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    Heh.

    Start checking fuses. If something got wet, given recent electrical work, then it may have blown a fuse. Check specifically ECU-B, DOME, and GAUGE.
     
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  12. Sisterwrath

    Sisterwrath New Member

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    Good call! Turned out to be a blown 15A fuse for AM2.

    I can't say how much I appreciate the assistance :D
     
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  13. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    Awesome! Troubleshooting electrical on these cars is such a crap shoot. Did you notice any indications of bare wires someplace that might have caused a short?
     
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  14. Sisterwrath

    Sisterwrath New Member

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    I did not notice anything like that. The replacement wires were for the run between the inverter coolant pump and the fuse box on the driver's side of the car, so the run is pretty short. The shop that did the repair wrapped all of the wires pretty neatly from what I can tell.

    I have read about devices that can trace shorts by sending a signal through the wire. Do you think it would be worth it to buy one and try to trace the short back or take any other action? I'm planning on keeping several spare fuses in the car from now on just as a cautionary measure, but if it is a short from moisture wouldn't the fuse just blow again immediately?
     
  15. seilerts

    seilerts Battery Curmudgeon

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    AM2 feeds a relay which powers the inverter pump. You are quite justified to return to the place that did the work and complain that it is not water tight. Until then, stay away from the car wash!
     
  16. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    Awesome call Seilerts. Its great to have you share your knowledge.
     
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  17. bahman

    bahman Junior Member

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  18. bahman

    bahman Junior Member

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    Guess it's my turn with this problem: 2005 prius with 245,000 miles. 1 month ago engine began shaking badly at idle and CEL illuminated. Ran codes and said multiple cylinder misfire and the 3 way coolant valve needing replacement. drove it to dealer for diagnosis and they told me same thing including "$1700 and no guarantees it would resolve issue." figured I'd start with the misfire first - $200 in parts - to make sure no head/block problems.

    Replaced plugs and coils for all cylinders and decided to change the PCV valve ($5) while I was in there just in case. Car ran like a top - no shaking at all. erased DTCs and waited for the 3 way coolant valve DTC to show again and I would take that in to get fixed (too messy and required coolant air bleeding). Never came on. Let Pep boys change the engine oil. 2 weeks runs fine.

    Next my son was driving it at night and said one headlight went out or got very dim. Not risking a ticket he said he drove it home and when he got in the driveway he could turn off engine but not console (GPS, radio, etc...). When he tried to turn it back on all he got was the "triangle !" light, fuel gauge bars all blinking, and all transmission gear square lights on and blinking in harmony. Engine will not start. Center console electronics would still not turn off. Slight smell of electrical burn coming from engine compartment/fuse box area.

    Did the priuschat research, checked fuses and alas! the AM2 15A fuse was out. Replaced it however no change in the car's demeanor. Same symptoms. Car will not start so cannot check for error codes. Fuse did not blow a second time - it is still good.

    Tomorrow I will try to jump it and see if it may be a 12v battery issue rest type action is required.

    Sooooooo,

    1) truly an inverter coolant pump issue?
    2) somehow created a short in the wires when replacing plugs/coils?
    3) other?

    Strange, car ran perfect for 3 weeks after plug/coil fix, fuse did not blow again after replacement, console won't turn off, engine won't start.

    Son said car has minimum 2-3 bars of gas.

    Stumped!/Help!/Thanks!
     
  19. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    You've glommed onto a thread in the Gen 1 Prius forum, but it sounds like you have a Gen 2.

    If I remember right, AM2 is the fuse that ends up protecting the car when a Gen 2's inverter cooling pump goes south. Somebody with more Gen 2 experience might confirm that. Possibly if you started a new thread in the Gen 2 forum (or searched there for posts about AM2) that would happen faster.
     
  20. bahman

    bahman Junior Member

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    thanks. will post over there.