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Bolt fell out onto my feet. Where does it go?

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by JonHakim, Sep 23, 2021.

  1. JonHakim

    JonHakim New Member

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    I was pulling out of my driveway when this clattered to the floor between my feet. Seemed to come from the middle. Where did it come from? I spent some time down there with a headlamp and couldn't see anything obviously missing.

    Is it safe to drive ~5 miles to a mechanic to ask them? Will a regular mechanic be able to answer that question if there are no Prius specialists nearby?

     
  2. Air_Boss

    Air_Boss Senior Member

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    Those inside threads have been worked over pretty badly. Check the under dash steering column mounts for a missing bolt.
     
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  3. JonHakim

    JonHakim New Member

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    I seem to have found the issue. It indeed appears to be the steering wheel mount. Unfortunately, I'm having a great deal of trouble getting the bolt back in. Here is a picture of the bolt where it needs to be, but coming from the wrong direction. I'm a tall guy with long arms and there is hardly any space coming in from the other direction, plus it is very difficult to get the steering wheel aligned perfectly in a manner that will allow the bolt to go through. Any advice?

     
  4. JonHakim

    JonHakim New Member

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    My comment appears stuck in moderation? I'm really struggling with this and unsure what to do next. I know what the problem is, just have no idea how to get the bolt back in there or how to get my car to someone who can.
     
  5. Air_Boss

    Air_Boss Senior Member

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    You’re not going to like this suggestion, but it may be necessary to remove, then replace the steering shaft U-joint to replace that bolt. Also, check why the upper threads were so worn down.
     
  6. JonHakim

    JonHakim New Member

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    I've considered that. And I don't think I should do it myself which means finding a mechanic. Alas it's a Saturday....
     
  7. amarino

    amarino Member

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    Try putting in the bolt from the other side. That way the threads will catch on that welded nut while the bolt shaft is through the middle of the u-joint.

    (Note: I have no idea what it looks like under the dash there. Just never seen a bolt where you put it in thread first to a captive nut like that.)
     
  8. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    If I'm getting my bearings right in the photo, that looks like the bolt called out as 45897A here, holding the lower end of the steering column, with the power assist motor.

    Yes, it needs to be installed so it goes through the steering column mount, and its threaded end ends up in the nut at the other side.

    Getting it through there should not require undoing the U joint or anything.

    It might require some (gentle or strenuous, as the case may be) wiggling of that assist gear housing until the holes all line up.

    Once cleanly started in the threads, it should be torqued to 18 foot pounds (25 newton meters).
     
  9. Air_Boss

    Air_Boss Senior Member

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    He said he was putting it in from the ‘wrong’ side just to illustrate where it was, because he could not wrestle the structure and steering shaft into place to get it started from the other ‘right’ side.
     
  10. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    It's possible (I don't know for sure) that some of the difficulty of wrangling the column so the holes align could be reduced by taking some load off the steering shaft (say, jacking up the front enough to get the wheels off the ground, try turning the wheel a few different ways while trying to line up the bolt holes, see if anything helps).
     
  11. Air_Boss

    Air_Boss Senior Member

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    I also find the damage to the inside inch or so of threads to be disturbing. Something is structurally out of whack, almost like the car took a front end hit at some point in its past.
     
  12. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I think I'm looking at the same photo (the one in post #1?) and I see the difference in reflectance between the threads that were in the nut and the threads that weren't, but nothing to me is looking like extraordinary damage to the threads. Judging from a photo might be tricking either one of us.

    It wouldn't be hard to get a metric nut of the matching size from the hardware, and just confirm it can run down over the bolt threads and back off. What I'd guess, if anything, is that it might balk a little at the point where the threads change 'color', but wouldn't be too hard to get past that point. Anyway, it's easy to find out.

    That lower steering column mount sees plenty of forces just from ordinary use of the steering. What feels easy to the driver because of the power assist is reaching that bolt at full force (the assist motor is above it). If not properly torqued, that bolt would have been taking a constant beating, even without a collision or anything unusual happening.
     
  13. Georgina Rudkus

    Georgina Rudkus Senior Member

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    If it has a 14mm hex head, it has an M10x1.25 thread. Toyota uses standard J.I.S. (Japan Industrial Standard) bolts. There are no M10x1.5 European DIN standard coarse threaded bolts on any Toyota vehicle.
     
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  14. Air_Boss

    Air_Boss Senior Member

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    Threads look rolled over and worked, to me, possibly as it backed out of the weld nut, but as you say, may just be the photo.
     
    #14 Air_Boss, Sep 26, 2021
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2021
  15. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    OP should be able to assess the bolt condition. When he trial-installed from the wrong side, did it turn easy? How do the threads look/feel? Maybe pick up a compatible nut at hardware store, run it through the full length of of threads (if possible) to check condition.
     
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  16. edthefox5

    edthefox5 Senior Member

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    Be careful if removing the u joint don't let the steering wheel spin free wheel as that will destroy the clock spring. The threads look bad like over torqued. i would buy a new bolt at the dealer may be parts order I included a link with its part number.

    I feel for you though just looking at those pictures makes my neck & back hurt. Maybe easier taking the seat out.

    Good luck.

    https://parts.olathetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-steering-column-bolt-4589742010?c=Zz1zdGVlcmluZyZzPXN0ZWVyaW5nLWNvbHVtbi1hc3NlbWJseSZsPTEmbj1TZWFyY2ggUmVzdWx0cyZhPXRveW90YSZvPXByaXVzJnk9MjAxMiZ0PWZpdmUmZT0xLThsLWw0LWVsZWN0cmljLWdhcw%3D%3D
     
  17. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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  18. jzchen

    jzchen Newbie!

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    If you do decide to remove the bolt from the U connection. First run your seatbelt through the steering wheel and buckle it. This will prevent the wheel from turning much and damaging the wiring inside as noted by edthefox. (This is actually Toyota instruction on how to replace the rack and pinion). This should allow the portion above the joint to move quite freely.

    (***The belt through the steering wheel applies to this option as well.***)
    Another option is to remove the plastic cover at the bottom and disconnect the column at the rack. If you do this be sure to mark a line where the column meets the rack so it can be reinstalled at the right spot. Your alignment may be off if you don't mark and put it back just right.

    If you prefer to have a mechanic work on it continue turning the screw from the wrong side until it is all the way in. If possible snug it down a little with a wrench. Then drive it carefully to your mechanic.
     
  19. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I suspect that any talk of disconnecting the U joint is a distraction; I don't think it's required for access to the bolt that's in question.

    A harmless distraction, as long as the OP doesn't go chasing it.
     
  20. kkosche

    kkosche New Member

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    While I am sure this specific thread / issue has been resolved, I thought I would share that I had the same problem in my 2012 Prius V. . . . Steering felt loose (like the tilt / telescopic mechanism was getting loose, or lot staying locked in place) and eventually the same bolt literally fell out on my feet.

    I ended up taking off the lower plastic panel (two larger sheet metal type screws and a couple pinch clips). I unclipped the wire loom retainer on this piece to give enough slack to move it out of the way towards the gas pedal.

    I cleaned the bolt threads with some carb clean, dried with paper towel, and out ample thread sealer/blue thread lock on the threads. Threads were fine, and no odd wear or abrasion present on the threads or bolt. I used a punch through the nut end to help align the pathway for the bolt. I also use a short #3 Philips screw driver to align the other side. . . . Then trial and error trying to get the bolt to start). I finally got the tip of the bolt to start sliding through the pieces. Once it went the rest of the way through, the bolt pushed out the punch.

    As stated before not a lot of room to work. Once I got it started (see picture, assuming they make it into this post) I used a slot screw driver to push/pry it the rest of the way through, and up to the opposite side with the nut. I used a ratchet end wrench, and it (surprising) started easily into the threads. No room for a proper torque measure, at least with my available tools . . . So I gave it what I would guess is 20-20# of uga-duga, measured with my right arm.

    I hope the above is helpful to someone else.

    Appears to be a pattern failure. My car was never in an accident. The fix is fairly straight forward, can be done with basic tools, and a fair amount of patience.
     

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