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Bolted C5 connector behind ABS...Woops

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by DIYohWhy, Apr 10, 2024.

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  1. DIYohWhy

    DIYohWhy Junior Member

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    Yup. My C5 connector for the DC/DC Converter is behind my ABS. I am trying to unbolt the frame of the ABS so I can move it forward to get it since it is stuck, but one of the nuts won't come off. It turns, but doesn't come off...and it's pretty hard to get to.

    Any ideas? Is it easier to just cut the wires at the harness and get a new plug and rewire it? Or should I crack the nut off somehow?
     

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  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Bummer.

    Me, I'd want the nut off. I'm surprised it is so stubborn—wasn't it just recently loose?
     
  3. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Are you sure it's turning. The silver ring around it looks more like rub marks from the socket spinning, but the flats are not engaged on the hex. Are you using a 12pt socket?
     
  4. DIYohWhy

    DIYohWhy Junior Member

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    It is loose, will turn but then get stuck a little then turn loose again, just won't come off the thread at all. If stays in the same position.
     
  5. DIYohWhy

    DIYohWhy Junior Member

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    Definitely rub marks but the hex is turning. I made sure both when I used the impact wrench and I tested with a hand wrench, used both the 12pt and the open end. Spins, just no movement up the thread.
     
  6. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    I'll have to look at mine again, I thought those were one piece flange nuts. Maybe they're the 2 piece design where the nut rotates separate from the washer.

    Anyway, if that's the case either the nut or stud threads are stripped, right? But damage should be localized to the lower area of the stud. Wedge a screwdriver/putty knife or something similar under the washer portion and pry upward slightly while turning it slowly. Threads may catch.
     
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  7. DIYohWhy

    DIYohWhy Junior Member

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    They rotate separately for me. I tried that a little yesterday, hard to get much pry on it but I'll try again since it may work, thank you. If it's the nut that is stripped, will that still work?
     
  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    This is a Gen 2?
     
  9. DIYohWhy

    DIYohWhy Junior Member

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    Yes
     
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  10. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Never seen the mounting of this up close; are the studs some clipped-or-tack-welded to the firewall sheet metal kinda thing, where the stud could have broken loose and is turning?
     
  11. DIYohWhy

    DIYohWhy Junior Member

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    Not sure but from what I can tell only the nut is turning but I'll keep it in mind when I work on it today
     
  12. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    This is for the break actuator not for the inverter or I've read something wrong anyway that's the 12 mm nut there's two of them for the actuator to firewall mount for the bracket and then right behind the inverter just under the inverter after you take the bolt out of the back of the inverter hold down bracket and lift up and swing the inverter over towards the radiator cap over the top of the engine corner then you'll see the bolt that holds the front edge of this bracket down It looks like the flats are damaged and you need one of my sockets that's made for damaged flats You can buy them at AutoZone and O'Reilly's I'm not sure about advance and the name of the sockets are I don't know they made by some cheap company that copied snap-on and Matco tool designs. But I've used them a bunch of times and I carry them in my junkyard rolling rigid bottom box that I drag around the junkyard when I go I blast these loose all the time I'm constantly taking actuators out of LKQ cars it's a once a week thing almost for God's sake usually I'm undoing this with a quarter inch drive Cobalt drive tool a 22-in or so extension and a 12 mm socket that locks onto that extension there's a button on the extension to let the socket go so I don't lose the socket at the junkyard rarely am I using my impact gun or 3/8 drive tools for this usually if it's below 14 mm it's quarter drive setup for me because it's lightweight easy to carry in one pocket with the four necessary sockets easy access I don't have to bend over and get into the rolling cart but that's just me. I have never seen one of these two bracket bolts stripped never I don't know if the stud could come unwelded and be spinning also highly unlikely It was both generally aren't very tight either one click in the reverse direction with my palm and they're loose never seen one spin or felt one spin but I'm not one to put the wrong size socket on a bolt and hump on it. But several companies make the equivalent of flank drive type sockets which were patented by snap-on in the '80s now a bunch of places make them and Irwin has sockets that will definitely grab hold of it and take it off and then the nut should be discarded or when is the big tool maker in yellow and blue logo they have some sockets that will rip the bolt to shreds and it will come off or the stud will spin off with the bolt which is fine if it's just one of them not going to hurt a thing missing one bolt on this bracket will not hurt you a bit if it has to be that way this is the one that's right forward of the driver's body when sitting in the car
     
  13. DIYohWhy

    DIYohWhy Junior Member

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    The nut cracker worked, just had to use it a bunch of times! Got my plugs!