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Brake & ABS lights, and codes but what is the fix?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by grillmarks0, Jul 14, 2015.

  1. grillmarks0

    grillmarks0 New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2015
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    Location:
    Dallas,TX
    Vehicle:
    2009 Prius
    Model:
    II
    I have a 2009 Prius with 73,000.I turned on my Prius after a quick stop at a drug store today to find my brake light and ABS warning lights on. In addition, braking was rough. I have to step on the brake much soon and "deeper" to stop. After a quick search of the net I learned I wasn't alone. Here are the codes I received-

    C1241- I just replaced my 12v battery about 1 1/2 years ago so I'm confused about 1241. I checked the levels. The are normal. The battery showed levels of 14 to 14.1v throughout the test. Maybe I don't understand the code?

    C1247- Stroke Sensor

    C1377- Capacitor malfunction

    Before I take my car to Toyota, I would like your opinion on what actually works to correct the problem. I cleared the codes and the car works fine right now. If I continue to clear the codes will the car work?

    I searched the forum the one person seems to believe the to repair replacing Stroke sensor is the best/only fix. How much does the stroke sensor repair cost?

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2008
    18,200
    6,479
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    Location:
    Green Valley, AZ
    Vehicle:
    2015 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    DTC C1241 means that from the perspective of the skid control ECU, the battery voltage is low. Since you found the voltage to be around 14V when the Prius is READY, there may be a problem with ABS #1 or ABS #2 relays.

    DTC C1247 points to a problem with the brake pedal stroke sensor.

    DTC C1377 points to a problem with the brake power supply (located next to the 12V battery) or ABS #1, ABS #2, or ABS #3 fuses.

    I suggest you check those three fuses and also remove and replace the two ABS relays just to clean the terminal contacts. If you have a digital multimeter and can devise a 12VDC source, check the relay resistance across the switched terminals when 12V power is applied to the relay coil terminals. The resistance should be 0.5 ohm or less (after accounting for resistance of the meter leads.) All of the above is reasonably easy for you to do and you may avoid the dealer service visit.

    If the car works OK for a while after clearing the DTC then the fuses are probably OK but a relay may be getting intermittent. You can continue to do this for a while until the problem gets worse.

    If the brake pedal stroke sensor needs to be replaced you may be charged $400 or so.