Brake Pads wearing crooked???

welcome!
there is a special orientation of the rear caliper piston to the pads. how many miles on her? have you had any brake work done? have you owned her since new?

 

If your calipers are not releasing, it could be your glide pins not lubed properly

 

^ agreed, that wear pattern usually implicates the slider pins. The caliper should float within the range of motion on those pins. If one binds you get a weird / / trapezoidal wear pattern. If they both stick you can get all the wear on one pad and none on the other.

Often you can free them up with some penetrating oil and exercise. Worst case, replace the caliper- though even used ones from the junkyard are usually fine. Once you get them moving properly hit them with a good thick lube meant for that job. Sil-glyde is a good example.

 

I assume it’s your inner brake pads that is wearing uneven? There’s a nipple that you need to have it seated on the caliper piston or else it’ll cause uneven wear on the brake pad. @Mendel Leisk has a good break down with image of how it should be installed. Take it away @Mendel Leisk lol

 

I wouldn't leave it too long. Especially if you're unaware of the piston/pin allignment requirement, there's a decent chance they're still not right.

A good quick check is to raise the rear (chock the fronts) and check how free-spinning the rear wheels are. There's a minor drag imposed by disc brakes, but with a good push they should spin a revolution or two, just with their momentum. If they're fighting, stop right away, you've likely got misalignment between the inner pad pin (stubby pin on back of pad) and the raised spoke pattern on the piston face. The pin needs to be between and firmly seated between the spokes, otherwise you get drag and uneven brake pressure, bevelled wear, rusty zone on about 50% of inner face of rotor.

More info here:

Rear brakes still binding after overhaul | PriusChat

 

They are not known for their keen observation .

Only when you bring them a problem you describe will their success rate improve.

Even with easy diagnosis, the prices can be steep.

Good luck and keep us posted .

 

Found your problem.

 

They also miss things like pulling the correct engine oil nozzle dispenser to refill, tightening oil filter and oil pan screw and etc.

So it's easy to understand, and mind boggling how they can miss something thats much more difficult.

 

thanks for the update, well done!

 

Yikes. Who last touched them?

 

Instead of starting a new thread, I will report my brake experience here. This was my first brake job. Was unplanned. I originally wanted to lube the caliber slide pins during the annual Spring tire swap. Never done this task before either. While the pins were off, I inspected the brake pads. The inner ones were worn, but not through the metal yet.

Went out and bought new pads. The rotors were still good. Replaced the front pads and lube the pins without problems. The back ones a different story. The right rear slide pins were seized. Had to bang them out with large screwdriver and mallet. They were corroded, decided to replace them. Also had to buy the rear caliber piston screw tool. In summary, was able to get the job done.

The original brake pads lasted 145K for over 6 years.

 

Looks like checking further was prudent .

Now to perform the service more frequently .

The fun of living in the salt belt.

 

Since you haven't mentioned this, I'm compelled to mention:

Caliper piston spoke pattern orientation is important on the rear brakes. It should be oriented like an "X" when reassembled, so that the stubby pin on back of pad is between spokes. And you need to ensure everything's well seated thus, the piston doesn't manage to rotate, ride a spoke up on that pin.

Long story short, to check/verify: raise the rear and spin a wheel; it should spin a revolution or two, fairly easily. If it's dragging badly it's likely that piston orientation, should be checked.

 

That's not good:



Don't tell me this was the first time the brakes had a proper inspection. Toyota USA recommends an in-depth brake inspection, tri-yearly or 30K miles, whichever comes first. For good reason. Sadly, they don't spell it out that clearly, but have a look, it's in the Warranty and Maintenance Booklet, pretty much buried and low-key.