1. Attachments are working again! Check out this thread for more details and to report any other bugs.

Brakes at 113K Miles and 9 Years

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by PriusII&C, Apr 15, 2021.

  1. PriusII&C

    PriusII&C Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2013
    370
    127
    0
    Location:
    San Jose, California
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius
    Model:
    II
    I changed my Prius' brake fluid today, and like to share my data for those who are interested.

    I bought the car new in 2012. It is 8 years 7 months old, with 113,223 miles. Most of the driving is in California, primarily in the Bay Area.

    First is the brake fluid condition. Brake fluid needs to be changed mainly due to two concerns: corrosion and lowering boiling temperature. While ChapmanF and hobbit have shown that corrosion is not a problem for up to 11 years 145K miles, I have not seen any example of boiling temperature change over time and mileage. Since the boiling temperature reduction is mainly a result of water absorption, I bought a digital brake fluid tester and measured water concentration of my replaced brake fluid. The result: around 1%.

    Second is the caliper pin grease condition. The grease still looks like new on the pins of the front brakes. However, it is much darker on the rear pins. This surprises me a bit. I would expect the reverse to happen because the front brakes bear the brunt of the kinetic energy in braking.

    Lastly is the brake pad thickness. All pads have about the same remaining thickness: 7.5 mm. BTW, I don't have a caliper handy, so the thickness is measured with a ruler and is approximate. Roughly there are still 2/3 pad material left. If this trend continues, I don't need new pads before 300K miles.
     

    Attached Files:

    StarCaller, GrGramps and kenoarto like this.
  2. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

    Joined:
    May 29, 2018
    5,837
    3,137
    0
    Location:
    Florida
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    mmm I would hope that the "replaced" fluid have no moisture.
    It also depends on your area. In Florida, lot's of humidity. I've seen black brake fluid.
    All the way to the rear calipers! If you do a lot of city driving the fluid gets hot, and possibly
    burnts/evaporate the moisture? I've also seen the results of that moisture. It WILL corroid the calipers
    and damage the seals.

    My front and rear brake pins were clean, but the grease was hardening. All 4 calipers moved much better
    after cleaning pins and grooves/holes the slide through and greased.

    If you are just a little gentle on the brake pedal, those pads last a LONG time!



     
  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2010
    54,474
    38,106
    80
    Location:
    Greater Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    With the “hybrid” braking being on the fronts, doesn’t that give the front conventional brakes a break? (Excuse the terrible pun...)

    I’ve found a tire tread depth gage handy for this task.
     
    #3 Mendel Leisk, Apr 15, 2021
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2021
    jerrymildred likes this.
  4. Andy H.

    Andy H. Junior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2017
    19
    7
    0
    Location:
    40337
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius
    Model:
    Five
    The regenerative braking helps the front as long as your not mashing on them. I went through 3 sets of rear pads before changing the fronts. I changed the fronts at about 200k and they still had a little wear left on them. I thought it was strange the when changing the fronts that they are a nice bit smaller than the rears.

    SM-N960U ?
     
  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2008
    23,073
    14,980
    0
    Location:
    Indiana, USA
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    o_O Strange is right. Fronts are definitely bigger on mine, as you'd expect, given where most brake force happens.
     
    Ed Beaty and Mendel Leisk like this.
  6. PriusII&C

    PriusII&C Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2013
    370
    127
    0
    Location:
    San Jose, California
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius
    Model:
    II
    Deleted...
     
    #6 PriusII&C, Apr 17, 2021
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2021
  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2008
    23,073
    14,980
    0
    Location:
    Indiana, USA
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    It's more complicated. It's been covered in other threads before. You could review this post for a start.

    [​IMG]

    Although that image is from the 1st gen New Car Features manual, and some details change over the generations, it gives the idea.

    The brake ECU and the power management control ECU are constantly exchanging information. The power management control ECU (horrible long name, I'm going to say p22l ECU) is more or less the orchestra conductor for the car. The brake ECU knows how hard you are pressing the pedal, and how fast the wheels are turning, and shares that information with the p22l ECU. The latter knows how much battery capacity is available to accept charge, and the temperature of the battery and inverter, and how much regen can safely be handled, and says to the brake ECU, "ok, I'll do this much, you do that much". And it recalculates and revises those instructions constantly from the time you put your foot on the pedal to the time you've come to a stop.

    Accumulator and actuator are both names of real parts in the Prius brake system, which is endlessly confusing because the words are so similar and people are always mixing them up. Catching that shows you're really paying attention.

    The accumulator is a tank for storing brake fluid under pressure. It has a factory charge of pressurized nitrogen gas and a barrier that separates it from the fluid. An electric pump forces fluid into the accumulator, and that stored, pressurized fluid is used to operate the brakes.

    The actuator is a set of hydraulic passages, pressure sensors, and electrically-operated valves directing the fluid out to the wheel cylinders and back. It is how the brake ECU is able to control the brakes.

    As you have a Gen 3, the accumulator and pump are together in the lower assembly shown here, and the actuator, master cylinder, booster, and ECU are all together in the upper one. Different generations have separated and combined them in different ways.

    [​IMG]

    There is one accumulator supplying pressurized fluid for the whole system. But the actuator has separate valves, and is very much able to apply different amounts of pressure to the rear and front brakes. That is normally necessary, because of the physics generally requiring the front brakes to do more of the braking, and the proportion can vary depending on how the car is loaded.

    When bleeding the rear brakes, you are seeing the effect of the accumulator and pump. Pressing the pedal causes the actuator to open the appropriate valves, and of course fluid will continue to flow as long as there is accumulator pressure. The electric pump will come on as needed to maintain the pressure. (You must be careful if you are letting fluid out at the bleeder; the pump can easily use all the fluid in the reservoir and then suck air in, which greatly complicates your bleeding job.)

    Your description of bleeding the front brakes is incomplete. The actuator has two separate hydraulic circuits for the front brakes. One works exactly like the rears, and will continue to supply fluid as long as the pedal is pressed. The other is a fail-safe circuit that is only used if the electronic control of the actuator has failed. The fail-safe behaves like regular brakes because the fail-safe essentially is regular brakes.

    People who bleed the front brakes incompletely, without going through the Techstream procedure for doing so, are only bleeding the fail-safe hydraulic circuit.

    There should be an award for the most observant first post about braking, and you should receive it. These are all very sharp questions.

    Yes, the reservoir level depends on how much fluid is hiding in the accumulator. On the reservoir, the level markings are positioned for when the system is "zeroed down": all of the accumulator pressure is relieved and all of the fluid is back in the reservoir. Any time you look at the reservoir when it is not "zeroed down", the level will look lower.

    How can you "zero down" the system before checking your fluid level? Well, there are several ways.

    There is a "zero down" command in Techstream. Send that, you hear a click-HIIISSSssssss... and it's zeroed down, you go look at your fluid level, super easy.

    If the car has been parked and off for a good long time, the system is probably pretty close to zeroed down just through natural slow leakage, close enough that you can sneak a look at your fluid level. But you have to do that without opening the driver's door, which will awaken the brake ECU and pump the pressure back up.

    If you remove the fuses for the brake pump, you can zero-down the system by pumping the brake pedal (in any Prius generation except Gen 2). You'll get around twenty or thirty strokes before the pedal suddenly feels quite hard. That's how you know the pressure is used up. Then go look at the level.

    Edit: after posting quite possibly the keenest and most-observant set of Prius braking questions seen on PriusChat ever, you've deleted them ... ?
     
    #7 ChapmanF, Apr 17, 2021
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2021
    kc410 likes this.
  8. PriusII&C

    PriusII&C Active Member

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2013
    370
    127
    0
    Location:
    San Jose, California
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius
    Model:
    II
    Reviewing my brake post today and realizing that I owe @ChapmanF an apology. Right after posting #6 post in this thread, I felt that there were so many questions in my post that I should have started a new thread. So I deleted #6 and openned a new post here.