busted off wheel studs/lug nuts?

How many miles on your Prius?

If higher mileage, might be worth looking into new hub assemblies rather than new studs.

 

When I did that on a past car, I learned that tire shops can replace broken studs very quickly and easily.

 

Yep. That's why I let them fellas do it. And all rotations and balancing is free, for life.

 

Take the wheel off and pound it out

 

How was this person related to you? And broke two? Holy moly liquid.

 

There's nothing about it that needs to be tack welded. The studs just press into place.

You can draw a new stud into place by starting it through the hole from behind and tightening a lug nut on it to pull it through (perhaps with a little spacer to get it the last little bit).

For pressing (not pounding!) the old one out, there are tools you can use that will just hook over the hub flange and let you tighten a threaded shaft to push the remains of the stud out. Your local auto parts store may let you borrow one (or pay a deposit that's refunded when you bring it back).

If you're thinking at all of banging or pounding on it, you may as well just go ahead and replace the whole hub assembly as suggested in #2.

Do you have a torque wrench to make sure this doesn't happen again?

-Chap

 

You can use a "c" clamp, a socket, and a bolt to press it out and in. That's how I've done them.
Works fairly easy. You do NOT want to pound it out! Unless you are taking the hub off and placing the
flange against an open vice, or a socket to support the flange to pound it out.
Walfart ALWAYS uses WAY TOO MUCH torque on the wheel nuts. They kept striping out mine on my Town and Country.
They torqued the ones on my Prius to 85! I showed them in the owners manual that it's 76.
They don't care. I just told them THEY are responsible when a rim brakes as I drive down the road.
And I told the one manager SHE is the one my lawyer will come after the most!

 

Many years ago when I got my torque wrench I was amazed how little it took to properly tighten wheel lugs. I suppose, only by dumb luck, I had not twisted off a lug.

So if it's any consolation, you are a member of a club counting in the hundreds (or thousands).

 

Not clear: you were doing this, or someone else??

Either way:

Wipe off the contact surfaces between inside face of wheel and wheel hub, maybe a sparing amount of antiseize, but keep the stud threads clean/dry. When putting on the nuts start them by hand, and spin them on using a socket and extension like a screw driver.

Snug them when the car's up, then when it's back on the ground torque them in a pentagram star pattern, 76 ft/lb's.

As far as replacing studs, compexity varies depending on the car. In your shoes I'd probably just take it to the dealership, get it done right.

 

Everyone seems to want to bounce a torque wrench. That's what walfart does.
I tell them EVERYTIME, they refuse to listen.
They don't even read the instructions that come with the wrench.
They why if you want something done right, do it yourself!

 

As long as your learned from your mistake, you'll survive.

Now take advantage of it and learn to replace a stud!!!

 

I should add that all my experience with broken studs was while taking wheels off, not putting them back on. Lug nuts corroded to the stud, once on a car and twice on farm equipment. But in each case, someone else did the stud replacement (shop for car, dad for farm stuff).

 

This, new hubs will be new bearings also, do both, or, yes, the studs are knureled,and just pound out, any auto store has them, take a look, if there's nothing behind them, pound em out, and buy a torque wrench, it took a lotta torque to breakem

Just read asr's advice not to pound them out without absorbing the impact, sage.

 

You might be able to use a socket and "C" clamp to press them out.
I don't remember how much room is behind the back of the stud. Maybe use an open or box end wrench
to fit in there.

 

Eric the Car Guy has a video on stud replacement. He uses an air hammer which some people frown on, maybe damage the bearing. Also, at least with the Accord he's working on, it's impossible to install a new stud without complete removal of the wheel hub. To void this he grinds a bit off the stud head.

 

No kidding.

If you're going to replace the hub anyway, go ahead, bang, pound, whatever you want. (Though in that case you don't need to, because the new hub has its studs already.)

If your plan is to keep driving on the hub/bearing you've got, push the stud with a clamp. Pull the new one in by threading a nut on it.

The "official" clamp for the job is 09611-12010, but a clamp that works is a clamp that works.

Notice they're just using a bar between two other studs to keep the hub from turning, but running nuts down those two studs first, so the bar doesn't mess up the threads.

-Chap