C1252 and others

Last weekend I took my car to the car wash, and got an undercarriage wash. When I got the car, the ABS and other lights were on, and the buzzer was on. I have had similar problems twice before, and after a day or two, the water would dry up, and everything would work OK. This time was different. A week later, the same problem. The car is really not driveable like this, since there is no regenerative braking, and no brake boost, so the car can stop, but slowly. Today, I got to work on the problem, I found two blown fuses, ABS-1 25 amp, and ABS-2 30 amp. That gets me to my first question. The ABS-2 "fuse" looks more like a fuseable link then a fuse, and seems to be part of a strip. I can't find any information on how to change this, and it does not look like anything that is replaceable, at least not like the MT fuses in the rest of the car. Any help would be apreciated. I jumpered this fuse, and most of the DTCs are gone now, except for C1252. The code does not clear. That is confusing in that is means that the motor relay is on for more than 5 minutes. I would think taht if the code was cleared, the ABS light would stay off for 5 minutes, and then reapear. It doesn't. Sometimes I read no DTCs, yet the ABS light stays on, as well as the buzzer. Removing the negative battery terminal did not help either. All the relays appear to be working properly. I am thinking skid control ECU troubles, unfortunately.

 

Good memory. I am going through the manual's procedure. I was not able to remove the actuator connector to check those connections. I worked around that, but now I have to figure out how to remove it and finish the tests. I have no concern about actually figuring out what is bad once I get the connector off. The two fuses that blew are connected together to the brake actuator. It is supposed to be a redundant setup. Two relays, and two fuses. So why is one fuse 25 amps, and one 30? Why is the 30 amp fuse special?

 

Update:
This is probably the worst possible outcome. The actuator assembly was fried. I can't figure out how water could do this, but the connections from BM1 and BM2 to ground (GND1 and GND2) are open. This means the the motor circuit inside the actuator opened. I checked and the actuator costs $1628.90 list, $1302.96 from Olathe. I'll have to call around and look for a used one. I'll check with Steve W as well. This will take a whole weekend to repair. Who knows what else I might find.

 

Update:
They are available used for under $200, definetly going that route.

 

Thanks for the support, and I will try to remeber to document it.

 

A quick update. I replaced the actuator today. It took about 8 hours. Unfortunetaly, being Sunday I slept late, so I did not have time to bleed the brakes. However, the DTCs are gone, so after bleeding, I think everygthing will be back to normal. I did take pictures, and will post a write up later in the week. Right now, I am looking at the brake bleeding instructions, and find them very confusing. I also have Autenginuity, which can bleed the brakes, but it does not follow the instructions in the shop manual. I will try to bleed the brakes before I go to work in the morining. A friend will come over & help me with this 2 person job.

 

I decided not to bleed the brakes today. The manual is too confusing, and I could at the most spend an hour. I also found that the brakes work fine, so I would not know if I succeeded in properly bleeding them anyway. I will ask Autenginuity for clarification of the bleeding procedure with their equipment. The bleeding will wait at least until this weekend. In the mean time, I will drive extra carefully to see if anything funny happens to the operation of the brakes.