Can cigarette lighter outlet handle 7 to 8 amps draw ?

It is rated at 12v/120w. So it is rated at 10A max. As long as it does not exceed that, it should be fine.

 

On my 1985 Corolla LE, the fuse for the cigarette lighter and digital clock was 15 A. It is probably still the same. So, even 12 A is probably OK. Back then, the regulated voltage with the alternator running was 14.3 V. It is probably close to 12 V now.

 

I think that is the range of the voltage supplied by the 12v battery in the car which is acceptable by your device. The voltage fluctuates as you draw more or the DC-DC charger kicks in while in READY mode. It just is saying that your device is OK to use with fluctuating voltage. Just make sure that you have your car in READY mode (does not have to have the engine running). If you keep it in ACC or ON mode, the 12v battery will deplete very quickly.

 

So watts is volts times amps? I think someone tried to teach me that, about 56 years ago...

 

Yeah for me it was in Junior High vocational class. Something like 56 years anyway.

 

Yeah, not that I was ever good at Physics, but at least I could recall my rudimentary knowledge of Ohm's law.

 

At least in Gen 3 Prius, the voltage (while the system is READY) can be changed by the ECU based on various electrical needs, whether the car is moving or stopped, and what the ECU thinks about the charge state of the 12 volt battery. It can sometimes be as high as 14.8 and doesn't often go lower than 13.5, though it can if lots of power-hungry things are running. I don't think anyone has completely figured out the ECU's rules for what voltage it selects when. There are some threads (look. maybe, for member RGeB) showing plots of how the voltage jumps around over the course of a drive.

Then, when the car isn't READY, say it's in ON or ACC, the voltage is likely to be below 12.8 and sometimes below 12 if you're pushing it.

Normally, devices that are made for an automotive "12 volt" system are robustly built for that wide a range of voltage, which isn't that different from what was seen in old cars with alternators and basic vibrating-reed regulators. So the radio will probably be just fine. Not sure why they'd publish 13.8 as its top limit though. It's not so unusual for cars to go above that.

 

I think you swapped them.

You can think about which way would give you an XL that increases with F (it is harder to pass higher-frequency signals through an inductor) and an XC that decreases with F (it is easier to pass higher-frequency signals through a capacitor).

Did you get a spiel about ELI the ICE man?

 

The voltage (E) in an inductor (L) leads the current (I) ... I in a Capacitor leads E.

 

You should probably track down that lighter circuit fuse; so you know where to find it - if you pop it. I believe that fuse is also tied to your USB charging ports and wireless charger - if so equipped. It's usually a 10A- 15A fuse.

Hope this helps.