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Can I uses regular oil vs. synthetic?

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by dimodica1, Jan 5, 2012.

  1. dimodica1

    dimodica1 New Member

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    The other day Speedy Oil changed my oil and put in regular oil vs. synthetic. I questioned them on that and they said unless it is marked on the oil cap or something like that, I could use regular oil.

    I have 25,000 miles and always had the synthetic.

    Should I be worried?
     
  2. Joe166

    Joe166 New Member

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    No, but you can't go the regular interval. You need to change it more quickly. That is assuming that the "regular oil" they used meets the manufacturers spec, which brings us to the next point.

    What you should be worried about is the use of quickie, franchised oil change operators. That is sometimes quite risky. Check the ground under your car frequently. Try to get "proof" of the actual kind of oil they used and then compare it's specs to the requirement set by Toyota. Unless the one you went to is unusual, these places are usually manned by minimum wage people with minimal training and experience.

    Most dealers have competitive prices and you have the advantage that there is a computer record, available to any Toyota dealership, to prove the fact that you changed your oil religiously.
     
  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Do you know what grade they used?

    My 2 cents: I'd avoid those sorts of operations.
     
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  4. ItsNotAboutTheMoney

    ItsNotAboutTheMoney EditProfOptInfoCustomUser Title

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    Did it meet the minimum specifiations for an oil change on the Prius? If it did, change after 5,000 miles. If not they shouldn't have changed it. The manufacturers publish the oil requirements for vehicles and those should be available on a database. If they don't have it they can check the user manual (assuming it's in your car). If that's not available they should look it up. Basically, don't go back there. They don't need experts. They just need an adequate system.
     
  5. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Senior Member

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    +1

    it is my understanding that you cannot make 0W20 conventional oil, so if they used non-synthetics they must have used 5W20. If 5W20 used Toyota recommends 5,000mi interval. They also recommend to switch back to 0W20 as soon as possible, and they say not to used it in cold weather.

    Mobil 1 0W20 is 26$ per 5qt in Walmart, filters are 4-5$ at dealer. Do your own oil changes good luck.
     
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  6. KK6PD

    KK6PD _ . _ . / _ _ . _

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    Buy your own oil and filter, whatever you like, let the dealer do the work and dispose of the used oil properly!
    Anything is better than JiffyStupid etc....
     
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  7. pjksr02

    pjksr02 Active Member

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    I'd be concerned they didn't change the filter element, or if they did, that they installed the housing improperly.

    I'd be really concerned about the condition of the push-pins on the oil-change door.

    You're not going to sleep well!
     
  8. The Critic

    The Critic Resident Critic

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    Quick lubes are already familiar with our cartridge filters since the newer Corollas also use them. So, there is no need to be paranoid.

    Conventional 5w20 is perfectly OK at 5,000 mile intervals per the manual. It is the more cost effective option if you are only paying $30 for an oil change every 5k compared to $75 for a synthetic 0w20 oil change every 10k.

    More importantly, if an individual only drives their vehicle on shorter trips around town, they are much, much better off using conventional 5w20 at 4-5k intervals than synthetic 0w20 at double the interval. The nasty fuel dilution is removed much sooner with more frequent oil changes. The viscosity difference between the ultra-thin, high VI Toyota 0w20 and a conventional 5w20 is also minimal, and the fuel economy difference will be negligible to most people.
     
  9. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Senior Member

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    5W20 vs 0W20 is true in warmer climate but could bite with winter temps well below freezing.

    Yes changing oil at shorter intervals with short trips will help with fuel dilution, but not so much with deposits. Conventional oils contain paraffin, they burn at lower temperatures, they don't have as many detergents.

    Per my mechanic with 30+ years of experience most of the engine/oil issues in engines he worked on were due to deposits, not b/c premature wear. 2nd biggest issue was due to valve seal wear (rubber gets cooked) he recommended changing seals with quality nitrite ones on 5-8 year old/150-200K engines as a way to extend engine's life.
     
  10. spiderman

    spiderman wretched

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    It is printed on the cap - "0W20"... that is only available in synthetic.
     
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  11. The Critic

    The Critic Resident Critic

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  12. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Senior Member

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  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Really though, having an earnest debate with Speedy Lube regarding oil grades and so forth, is pretty much on par with discussing your parrot's state of health with the Pet Shop owner in the Monty Python sketch.
     
  14. xs650

    xs650 Senior Member

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    Lets not be impugning the veracity of Python's Pet Shop owner.:D
     
  15. Flyman

    Flyman Junior Member

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    I'd change my own oil before using Jiffy Lube or any of it's ilk. I don't trust them or much of anything they say.
     
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  16. mickey513

    mickey513 Member

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  17. ETC(SS)

    ETC(SS) The OTHER One Percenter.....

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    You joined the forum in '07, have like....3 posts, and 25K miles on a G-something, either 2 or 3.
    Interesting.

    OK.
    Here's the deal.
    Cartridge filters aren't new...not even close, and the manual says you can use 5w30 with modified intervals----so no.
    I wouldn't lie awake at night worrying that you've wrecked your engine.

    I'm sure that Joey Bagadoughnuts down at the EARL EMPORIUM did his (or her) usual stellar job, and he (or she) didn't use bulk oil in a 55-gallon drum, overtorque your filter housing or drain plug, or anything like that. I'm also sure that you've already checked to make sure that Joey didn't over fill the oil---so I'm 99.44 percent sure you'll be fine.

    As long as you're changing your oil per the OEM maintenance schedule or having it done by a "qualified" wrench, you're "probably" going to be OK---especially if you plan to put less than lunar mileage on your vehicle. Just remember that while Joey might be a pretty good wrench, he (or she) doesn't care as much about your car as you do, and the difference between a $70 oil change and a $30 oil change even every 5K for a $25,000 vehicle just doesn't justify wandering too far from the OEM maintenance schedule.

    YMMV...
     
  18. oldasdust

    oldasdust Member

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    How many quarts of the dino oil did they use? Replace the drain washer ?
     
  19. xs650

    xs650 Senior Member

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    You can say that again. Cartridge oil filters have been around since at least the 1920s. Spin-on's didn't show up on mainstream production cars until 1957 (FoMoCo for sure and I think Chrysler). Fram had a spin on they made for 1952 Crosleys.
     
  20. tumbleweed

    tumbleweed Senior Member

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    What year is your car? What weight oil did they use? Did they change the filter?

    If your car is a 2010 or 2011 and if they used 5W20 and changed the filter you can go 5K miles to the next change without violating the warranty requirement, but then you must use 0W20 at the next change. With 0W20 you can go 10K miles between changes.

    If your car is older that 2010 you can probably use 5W30 non-synthetic (but synthetic would be better) and change every 5K miles.