Car stalled while driving tons of codes

Discussion in 'Prius v Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Soniasmall1021, Sep 22, 2022 at 3:17 PM.

  1. Soniasmall1021

    Soniasmall1021 Junior Member

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    Hello! So I previously had an unsolved problem of a stalling sensation. Well, I have been driving without the ac for the past like 4 months with no problem. Well, yesterday I was out running errands when it was seeming like the car didn't want to brake. After about 3 stop lights or about a mile the engine light came on and I was trying to slow down and it started like skipping, almost like the brakes were pumping without me pumping them. I pulled over and with the dr.prius app saw that it was a code p0101. So I let it sit a while and turned the car back on to try to make it back home, about 10 miles. Well, 5.5 miles later at about 20mph the hybrid system shut off and a bunch of lights came on, the engine stalled out, the car came to a stop thankfully, the steering locked up. I turned the power off and manged to get it started to pull off the road. I hooked up the obd2 reader again and got all these codes. P0101, p3190, p3191, p0a80, p0a0f. And on the torque app today it listed a p0171. And i did notice that the hv battery temp after the stall was like 200. Any suggestions? I have recently cleaned and changed the filter, maf, egr valve, throttle body, spark plugs. The car is my livelihood and right about now I have $500 to my name. Will be trying to clean the intake manifold. But is there a way that a bad hybrid battery could cause this code? Like say any help would be great!
     

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  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    have you cleaned the hybrid battery cooling fan?

    checked inside the battery for corrosion?
     
  3. Soniasmall1021

    Soniasmall1021 Junior Member

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    I did clean the battery cooling fan. Did not check inside for corrosion. I guess i can try to do that first. Have to try to get to the store to buy parts for the intake manifold. As of right now, I am a little leary to start the car, because it has just enough to start the engine. If it doesn't stay started, the hv battery is dead.
     
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  4. Soniasmall1021

    Soniasmall1021 Junior Member

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    My question, can a bad battery cause the p0101 to come on? That was the first light to come on before all the other codes. If so, I can finance a battery replacement. After I cleaned the maf yesterday and started it back up, before it stalled I did notice that the voltage of #8 dropped to 13.7. It then shut hv off and engine off; then the engine didn't start back neither.
     
  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    You have a clump of codes about one thing, and another code about another thing.

    The P0101, P0171, P3190, P3191, and P0A0F are a clump.

    The first four are from the engine control module (ECM), and the last one is from the power management control ECU.

    P3190 and P3191 are about the engine producing too little power (one is about too little power in general, the other is specific to starting attempts, and says it never really made enough power to be considered a successful start). The P0171 is about the fuel-air mixture being too lean (which can be one easy reason for too little power from the engine), and the P0101 is about a discrepancy between the amount of power the engine's being asked for, and the amount of power you'd expect it to make from the amount of air going in. The P0A0F is just the power management control ECU saying "wait, what? I asked the ECM for some power and something must be wrong over there."

    So all of that stuff indicates general gasoline-engine poor-power issues, and the good news is mechanics have had to troubleshoot those kinds of things for gasoline engines for decades, and don't need to be hybrid geniuses or anything. Should probably start by going back very carefully over all the recent work done on MAF, EGR valve, throttle body, spark plugs, etc., with close attention to all the electrical connections, and all the joints in the intake system where unmetered air might be leaking in. This kind of problem can be tedious to find, but can often be fixed for not much money when found.

    The other code, P0A80, is an unrelated thing. The traction battery in the back of the car is going. That's a more straightforward problem to solve, but the solution does involve a sum of money.

    One thing to be careful of, while troubleshooting engine no-starts: each start attempt uses some charge from the traction battery. It's hard to recover once that gets too low. Also, if it has been brought very low as a result of many start attempts, that might have exposed any developing weakness in the battery and brought on the P0A80 a little sooner than it might have been seen otherwise.
     
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  6. Soniasmall1021

    Soniasmall1021 Junior Member

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    Yes, that is my main thing. I only started it once after cleaning the maf and it looks like I only have 1 start left. So I am trying to go over everything I can with the engine to make sure everything is good. Hence the reason why I am going to try to clean the intake manifold between today and tomorrow.
     
  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    How are you judging that? Do you have a scan tool that can show you the actual traction battery state of charge? If so, what is the current state of charge?
     
  8. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    is the battery still under warranty?
     
  9. Soniasmall1021

    Soniasmall1021 Junior Member

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    Yeah, I use the dr.prius app. It says like 15% and it only has 1 bar.
     
  10. Soniasmall1021

    Soniasmall1021 Junior Member

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    I don't think so! The car has like 208k on it. It is probably the original battery in there!! But, I will be seeing if I can qualify to make payments on green bean battery.
     
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  11. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Ah. Yikes. I'm not sure how to interpret the bars—I believe the whole range of the MID's bar graph is essentially zoomed in to cover the intended range of charge states, from maybe 40% to 80% or so, actual state of charge. So I prefer to get the SoC figure directly from the ECU.

    But if Dr. Prius is showing it as 15% ... that's lower than I ever dared to let one get.

    Might want to see if you can line up a high voltage charger somewhere, in case it ends up being needed.
     
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  12. Soniasmall1021

    Soniasmall1021 Junior Member

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    Yeah, it was at 40% at the last start, then dropped that low. I have never seen it that low before. But on the last start my husband made mention that it didn't sound right. Almost like it wasn't full sounding. But considering one of the main air hoses was off, that would be why.
     
  13. Soniasmall1021

    Soniasmall1021 Junior Member

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    But, we are out taking the intake manifold off and noticed a couple of air vacuum hoses not right. One was completely off, and the other the clamp was not on there where it was supposed to be.
    So I did get a new pcv valve today. So just gonna replace that while I am in there.
     
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  14. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Well, that's a walking, talking P0171 right there.

    Had it been running ok before, then suddenly changed?

    I remember a bulletin, T-SB-0041-15, about updating the ECM firmware to be less likely to cause an accidental backfire that pops hoses off the manifold. It's applicable to the 2012 and 2013 v, and after the update, the ECM calibration shown in Techstream should be at least 34725200 (for a v).

    If that's what happened, then the purge vacuum switching valve, 25860-37020, probably also needs to be replaced.

    I should go get that firmware update myself. I keep procrastinating....
     
    #14 ChapmanF, Sep 23, 2022 at 6:45 PM
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2022 at 6:53 PM
  15. Soniasmall1021

    Soniasmall1021 Junior Member

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    Yes, it was sudden. It was running fine before then. I will definitely look into the firmware update. But this is a pic of the hose that popped off. It sits right under the air box. So when I removed it, my husband noticed and asked if I had unhooked it.

    We got everything back together and thankfully it started up just fine!! It charged the battery and we were able to do a 10 mile test drive with about 5 start ups.
     

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  16. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I do believe that is the purge vacuum switching valve right there, so what happened was probably what's described in the TSB. I'm glad the car started right up, but that valve may have taken some damage; the TSB would have you replace it, in addition to updating the firmware.
     
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  17. Soniasmall1021

    Soniasmall1021 Junior Member

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    Yes, definitely looking into it! Hopefully the dealer doesn't charge too much to update the firmware!! I certainly appreciate all your help.
     
  18. Soniasmall1021

    Soniasmall1021 Junior Member

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    Yes, definitely looking into it! Hopefully the dealer doesn't charge too much to update the firmware!! I certainly appreciate all your help.
     
  19. Air_Boss

    Air_Boss Senior Member

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    Firmware update should be covered by the TSB at no charge but your time.
     
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  20. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I've never known that something in a TSB is done for free. Recalls and warranty extensions, sure.

    When I have a firmware update because I saw it in a TSB, usually they charge about an hour at their shop rate.

    You can help them out a bit if you show up without a lot of stuff in the hatch area. Their procedures require them to get to the 12 volt battery back there and attach a backup power source so nothing can make the update fail mid-flash.

    If you have extra accessories wired to the battery that they don't know about, it's good to make sure those won't come on and draw power during the update.

    Since you had the kablooey happen already, the TSB work should also include replacing that purge valve because it may have taken damage. If beyond the applicable warranty coverage, they'll also charge for that small part.
     
    #20 ChapmanF, Sep 24, 2022 at 3:35 PM
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2022 at 3:52 PM
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